General > Rock Climbing: Trad

ice flow

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lucky luke:
When you look a river in spring, you saw the ice pushing by the current. If the ice stop, it will create a dam... and it will inundate every think above the dam. In climbing, many people used the term clusterfuck when many party are stick between other.

As a debacle happen, or after a water fall, the ice flow can be so strong that it can destroy a bridge. It is also a situation that happen in climbing when a team try to pass other and place them in dangerous situation. Few years ago, a party was climbing half dome and try to pass an other by the right. The guy move a block that felt on his rope. The body was discover at the bottom of the cliff.

I think that when you climb, you most know the normal flow on a climb. For example, on standard route frankeinstein cliff, many party climb it by a warm day. If to be safe, only four party most be on the route at the same time, every one most respect that. Before, we call that measure of time the commitment rating.

As a forum, I thought that experience climber and guide most discuss what is the commitment rating and wrote it as it is in many guide book. As a climber, I wrote a blog to discuss more deeply the situation. You see the news at tv, but you read more detail in journal. So, I hope that people will understand that it is more a positive blog to the site than a competition between two forum.

The blog is: http://tradpartner.blog.com/     

DLottmann:
You finally created a blog!

Where can I subscribe/follow? I could not find that spot and donít want to miss any of your posts.

Standard Route at Frankenstein is a 2 pitch Grade II if you are looking for commitment rating... yes, you can break it up into 3 pitches if you really want to. Skilled climbers can 5th class it in under two hours. New climbers often take half a day, and get passed by other parties. Itís too popular to move slow on and not get passed by one of 3-4 variations...

perswig:
Ice flow?

THIS is ice flow....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5waSw2mMfY

Yowza.
Dale

strandman:
I'm  guess I'm not sure why mentioning half Dome is relevant to "ice flow"  Though i certainly have seen a lot of "snow flow" of HD

lucky luke:

--- Quote from: perswig on February 19, 2014, 05:27:25 PM ---Ice flow?
THIS is ice flow....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5waSw2mMfY

--- End quote ---

very amazing.

I spoke about half dome because some quebec climber that I know was there just the pitch under the guy who died. Thre was alot of party in the climb, moving as a river. If every body stay at his place, there is less danger, just normal danger. But some guy want to bypass other who climb at a "normal" speed. In doing so, one climber died.

 

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