Author Topic: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14  (Read 1361 times)

Offline JBrochu

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2014, 08:52:15 PM »
Man that sounds horrifying. I've only done that route once and never tried to lead it since it seemed so desperate and scary even seconding it. Falling nearly the length of it must have filled your trousers. 
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline rbuels

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2014, 09:29:38 PM »
Hehehe, it was definitely desperate (for me, at least).  Super fun though.  Until, you know, the hurty part.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2014, 09:32:50 PM by rbuels »

Offline cjdrover

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2014, 09:35:48 PM »
To cjdrover, ... would you mind sharing your Wilderness medicine training level?

Just enough to know I should have been more careful... =)

I am a chemical engineer and do fairly regular industrial first aid/hazop/CPR certification, but my only exposure to wilderness medicine was a seminar prior to a summer working on the AT in 2008-ish. If nothing else, this was a reminder that you never know when you might need the skills, even if it isn't you or your partner. Rose Mary (climbing partner and fiancee) commented almost as soon as we got home that "we should really take a WFR class."

Anyways, glad Rob is doing well. I took the lesson of not pushing too hard to heart by backing off of Repentence on Sunday morning... only to watch George Hurley show up and cruise it minutes later (I'm 26). Such is life.

Chris

Online DaveR

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #18 on: February 24, 2014, 10:55:37 PM »
only to watch George Hurley show up and cruise it minutes later (I'm 26). Such is life.

/quote]

George is an awesome guy but he is a freak of nature! He makes everyone look and feel bad at some point.

Offline ralbert20

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #19 on: February 25, 2014, 07:25:30 AM »
I was wondering how badly you were hurt. We were the party (the other Rob - I talked to your partner for a bit on the first pitch of Chia) climbing next to you all day Saturday. I did not see you fall, but I saw you packing snow in your boot. I was planning on finishing up Pegasus, and lowering to help you walk out, but by the time we finished on P, you were gone. Too bad it is broken! It didn't look like you were in much pain.

As far as the people who gave you your screw back, the father should have his climbing privileges revoked. I have never seen a more disgraceful show between a father and son. This probably deserves it own thread, so I am going to make one...

I'll add that I am impressed that you crawled out, and seemed to be taking everything in stride! Good on ya for being self sufficient!

-Rob
 

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #20 on: February 25, 2014, 10:30:54 AM »
It's impressive that you folks managed the self-rescue. That's at least 2 this season, maybe 3! I hope that you heal quickly. Can I assume that you into the mixed section? I'm curious, what do you think made you fall at that point? Just curious, and it's always good information for AINAM.

In the same interest as all. I am curious, what do you suggest if you have to climb the route an other time? I am just curious because the expression: "climbing over your head" is very subjective. One day I can be in bad shape and barely climb three; the other in good one an I will climb four plus.

Technically, what do you improve? or maybe it is just one of these days where every thing go wrong?

Offline rbuels

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #21 on: February 25, 2014, 11:23:36 AM »
If I had been more skillful, I maybe could have found some kind of a restful stance higher up to place a third screw instead of trying to power through to the rest that I could see.  Maybe I could have found a crampon placement on the rock further behind me on the right, for example, that would have let me stem a bit and get a rest. Then, I would have been in a better state both mentally (because of the screw) and physically (because of the stem rest) to continue.  Or I guess if I had been stronger, I could have powered all the way through it instead of pumping out, but there's not much to admire in that.

Wish I had taken a picture of what it looked like before I got on it, so what I'm talking about would make more sense.  On Saturday, it really did not look very much like any of the pictures I've found around on the net so far.  After about 1/3 or 1/2 of the way up, there was no ice on the right hand wall, the middle of the route was mostly just a vertical, maybe a little bit overhanging pillar/curtain.  When I made the decision to get on it, I figured I would probably find some OK rock holds on the right to stem on, but I never did.

Ha, turns out that sitting here with a broken ankle, frustrated at the prospect of not being able to climb for weeks, makes me inclined to yak in climbing forums.  Who knew?

DLottmann

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #22 on: February 25, 2014, 11:29:26 AM »
I think you’ve described it perfectly... there is a right stem there that requires some flexibility but is quite nice if you find it...

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #23 on: February 25, 2014, 06:41:00 PM »
Last spring I knocked off a brick sized foothold. can't remember if it came out from under my right or left foot but i do know the climb has one less major rock foothold.

Offline perswig

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #24 on: February 25, 2014, 07:02:42 PM »
Last spring I knocked off a brick sized foothold. can't remember if it came out from under my right or left foot but i do know the climb has one less major rock foothold.

This sounds suspiciously like an admission of guilt to me! 
rbuels, have your representative at Hardy, Wolfe, and Downing contact Mr. Tradmanclimbz and arrange an out-of-court settlement for pain and suffering caused by altering your route and depriving you of the needed stem at the crux.  You totally have a case!

(grin)

Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2014, 07:21:59 PM »
If I had been more skillful, I maybe could have found some kind of a restful stance higher up to place a third screw instead of trying to power through to the rest that I could see.  Maybe I could have found a crampon placement on the rock further behind me on the right, for example, that would have let me stem a bit and get a rest. Then, I would have been in a better state both mentally (because of the screw) and physically (because of the stem rest) to continue.  Or I guess if I had been stronger, I could have powered all the way through it instead of pumping out, but there's not much to admire in that. [...]

 so what I'm talking about would make more sense. 

Sounds pretty clear to me. It is just the little line between safe and unsafe that make climbing so fun when we can describe it. Hope you will come back to climb and be able to climb over the ice screw again.

How could you rest without placing an ice screw??? Did you climb leachless??? which climbing technique for ice axes do you use regularly??? Did you decide to place your ice screw before you climb or did you climb and decide that you need an ice screw???


Offline ralbert20

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Re: Leader Fall on Hobbit Couloir 2/22/14
« Reply #26 on: February 25, 2014, 09:24:11 PM »
I too wish I had taken a photo of the route. I said to Amy just before you fell, "Wow, that dude is really getting after it!" It really looked like crap...