If you fall, you are an inexperience climber, but competent climber fall too.
If you are competent grade 4 or 5.11 climber, Did that means that you can climb every grade 3 or 5.8 easily?
skilfull means nothing. I can pull 200 pounds, I can do a layback, I evaluate the distance of my other protection from my last one, are more meaningfull
In fact, if you are training strenght and technique ten hours a week, it is easy to climb 5.10. If you have a family and other responsibilities...you can't climb that level in other way than cheating (if you do an other sport, you aren training for strenght).
So, climber who can go climbing one day a week or less are they allowed to climb?
In my opinion, if you don't have time for training, it is possible to climb safe, but not hard. Up to 5.7, many climber don't need to go in a gym and can do a climb without workout. There is many interesting route at that level for many years. The problem is that, even if you told them that you have little time, some people push you on higher grade.
So, my question is how can we decide what is our level without the annoying pressure of 5.++++ climber?