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Author Topic: inexperience, skilfull, competent  (Read 1387 times)

lucky luke

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inexperience, skilfull, competent
« on: February 28, 2014, 12:42:14 PM »

If you fall, you are an inexperience climber, but competent climber fall too.

If you are competent grade 4 or 5.11 climber, Did that means that you can climb every grade 3 or 5.8 easily?

skilfull means nothing. I can pull 200 pounds, I can do a layback, I evaluate the distance of my other protection from my last one, are more meaningfull 

In fact, if you are training strenght and technique ten hours a week, it is easy to climb 5.10. If you have a family and other responsibilities...you can't climb that level in other way than cheating (if you do an other sport, you aren training for strenght).

So, climber who can go climbing one day a week or less are they allowed to climb?

In my opinion, if you don't have time for training, it is possible to climb safe, but not hard. Up to 5.7, many climber don't need to go in a gym and can do a climb without workout. There is many interesting route at that level for many years. The problem is that, even if you told them that you have little time, some people push you on higher grade.

So, my question is how can we decide what is our level without the annoying pressure of 5.++++ climber?


 
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strandman

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2014, 12:49:29 PM »

What about training by climbing ??
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DLottmann

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2014, 05:19:24 PM »

Generalize generalize generalize...

Plenty of climbers I know can climb 5.10+ off the couch (and overweight).

In fact I'd argue if you can send 5.10 with a beer gut and 5+ years off from climbing you are very skilled...

Allowed to climb? What the F are you talking about???

Even single moms who work full time jobs find time to train (and make it to the Olympics), so I think where there is a will there is a way.

Who exactly is this 5.xxxxxx climber you are referring to? I've never met him...
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perswig

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2014, 06:09:32 PM »

So, climber who can go climbing one day a week or less are they allowed to climb?

God, I hope so, because if not, I better sell the gear and take up counted cross-stitch. 
Anyone need any doilies?

Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

lucky luke

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2014, 07:23:20 PM »

What about training by climbing ??

it is include in the ten hours. In fact, to work your technique you have to climb. I did some exercise to know body movement in a gym, but it is nothing at climbing.

The ten hours is from a german book translate in french and work mostly for on sight climber...that means where ever you are you can climb 5.9 or 5.10 if it is your level. Real cotation, of course. Some place lower the difficulty to have more climber and there is still sand bag.

I used to train at barber wall, placing all the pro in my rack in the pitch without hanging on the rope. I do laps and when I fall, ask my belayer to lower me and clim the route two more time, or to the moment my hands open...and there is more exercise to be stronger like climbing all the route with layback what ever if an other technique is more efficient, face climbing every thing, etc. It could be sport climbing too, like working a route...

I make a strong distinction between climbing for training, climbing to reach a goal and climbing for fun.
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sneoh

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2014, 07:27:41 PM »

Like Dale, I might well be doomed for only having pulled on plastic three times in the last four weeks.
You can come down here to revoke my priviledge, LL.

Solid leader on 5.10+ off the couch is very good.  I know a few and they are special.
I am not going to doubt that they are "skilled enough to climb safely".
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

tradmanclimbz

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2014, 12:13:12 PM »

wonder where champ gets these belay slaves and how often they repete.... :o
« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 05:02:18 PM by tradmanclimbz »
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DLottmann

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2014, 06:27:14 PM »

wonder where champ gets these belay slaves and how often they repete.... :o

+1
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lucky luke

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2014, 12:41:01 AM »


I make a strong distinction between climbing for training, climbing to reach a goal and climbing for fun.

some time you said that you work for the accessibility and when we talk of many many people in the 80 who enjoyed climbing beginer and intermediate route, it is bad....

Nobody think about climbing over his helmet is not fun as much as climbing under your level? and that the level of a party is the level of the weaker?

you can be competent to lead 5.6, skilfull at 5.8 and inexperience at 5.10 and have more fun than pushing hard????
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DLottmann

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2014, 08:50:50 PM »

Could you stop quoting yourself?
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DLottmann

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2014, 08:51:20 PM »

Could you stop quoting yourself?

Seriously!
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DLottmann

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2014, 08:51:48 PM »

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DLottmann

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xcrag_corex

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #13 on: March 02, 2014, 10:09:43 PM »

Quote from: lucky luke link=topic=8363.msg65078#msg65078 date=13936334
[/quote

Nobody think about climbing over his helmet is not fun as much as climbing under your level?
WAIT!!!!! YOU WENT OVER MY HELMET?!?!?!?!
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-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

strandman

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Re: inexperience, skilfull, competent
« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2014, 09:21:19 AM »

LL-there's nothing wrong with pushing your limits ?!  If no one ever pushed, there would be no new routes. Do you EVER fall ? 

Just because a route is "runout" doesn't mean it's deadly
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