Poll

How do you decide on what brand oF gear to use ?

I generally stick with a few brands
5 (83.3%)
I like all kinds of brands
0 (0%)
Doesn;t matter ,it's all good
1 (16.7%)
i don't  use gear
0 (0%)
Whatever comes out of the pack
0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 6

Voting closed: March 09, 2014, 02:52:24 PM

Author Topic: Deciding on gear  (Read 606 times)

Offline strandman

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Deciding on gear
« on: March 04, 2014, 01:52:24 PM »
I notice that virtually all my rack is (ex biners and brass) is still metolius and Wild Contry. Petzl biners and Fish sewn stuff.. Do you stick with brands forever ?

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2014, 02:07:02 PM »
Generally, stick with a few brands that I know will work for me. Occasionally, if something comes on the market that looks good and the price is right I'll jump on it. So mostly Patagonia, Metolius, BD .75, 2, 3, BD screws. Jumped on some good deals for BD packs years ago, they worked but the longevity isn't there, I do love their avalung integrated packs. Took a chance with Cilogear awhile back, they're nice but I'll probably go back to CCW for the next one. Say what you will about Patagonia, but for me that stuff lasts, most of my long johns are 8 plus years, and I still rock one pair that's over 20 that I x-c skied in everyday for four years and gets stuffed in my pack for every hike and climb.

Offline strandman

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2014, 02:12:51 PM »
I gotta agree on the patty clothes..good stuff.. I'm not the best to ask about packs though..2 Wild Things and a CCW in  30+ years.  Not quite as bad as mammut ropes only for the same time frame ( I did own a Beal, but gave it away)

Offline markvnh

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2014, 05:30:43 PM »
Its been mostly Patagonia and Mountain Hardware for clothing over the years. The AAC discount helps with being able to afford Patagonia. Have purchased some OR outerwear the last couple years and it seems to be holding up well. And its great value.

Hardware wise I've been using DMM biners for a long while and recently bought some BD hotwires. Cams have been WC and BD for many years. And of course WC rocks. And ropes have been Mammut for as long as I can remember!

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2014, 08:28:23 PM »
I'm sorta brand loyal, but I also and brand-local. I choose stuff made in NE when possible (Ragged Mountain, Sterling, NEMO, Jetboil, etc), or fall back to a brand I've had good luck with (mostly Black Diamond). I also tend to try stuff that the sponsored folks who I know tell me is performant. An Evolv athlete convinced me to try the Shaman shoe, which is WAY too much shoe for me, but I like it and it works well.

So, you know. The marketing works. 
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2014, 08:37:00 PM »
Generally brand loyal and like Mr. Jackson said, I also try to stay local. Big fan of WildThings but I caught a killer deal this fall on a Patagonia coat. BD for hard wear for the most part. I'm all over the board when it comes to rock shoes. My feet are kinda funky so it's whatever fits well.
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2014, 08:42:37 PM »
like Mr. Jackson said,

We gotta meet in person and have a beer so you can just call me Pete. Or use the nickname most of my climbing partners use: ".....WHOA.....sketchy.....but it worked."
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2014, 08:51:56 PM »
like Mr. Jackson said,

We gotta meet in person and have a beer so you can just call me Pete. Or use the nickname most of my climbing partners use: ".....WHOA.....sketchy.....but it worked."

I'm a non drinker but I'll call you whatever you want me to. Haha. We can sort it out over a climb some time.
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline danf

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2014, 10:56:19 PM »
I'm one of those that has no rhyme or reason to the gear.  I'll admit I haven't been climbing long enough to really sort out what I like and don't like...

I've got cams that are BD, Aliens, and Metolius on my primary rack, the second rack has that plus a Trango and a set of rigid stem Friends (and minus the Aliens).  Camp tri-cams and WC nuts.  Biners run the full gamut, BD, Petzl, OP, Rock Exotica, think there's an HB Wales in there on the rack too.  Ropes from Edelwiess, Beal and Blue Water, plus a couple others that I don't know who made them (Dad gave them to me).  Draws from BD, Beal, Metolius, Camp, don't remember who else.  Shoes, don't get me started on shoes- last count there were 16 pairs hanging on the gear rack!  And I don't even want to think about all the damn harnesses down there too.  I should state that we have a lot of shoes and harnesses because we usually have our kids (and their friends) with us, so having extra gear doesn't bother me.

At this point, I fall into the frame of mind of "If I need it, I'm going to find it cheap". ;)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #9 on: March 05, 2014, 07:31:13 AM »
I find what works best and utilize the best tool for the best aplication. A bit local minded in some things. Sterling ropes for quite a while now.  Also i go for what is on sale but only if it is going to fill a specific need properly. It is not a deal if you don't need it...

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #10 on: March 05, 2014, 08:17:36 AM »
It is not a deal if you don't need it...

Very true. I had a sweet deal for mammuts newish rescue you device and almost pulled the trigger, then realized I'm not really spending all that much time on glaciers anymore.

I guess you could say I'm a bit of a clothing whore. Several pairs of hard shell and soft shell pants and jackets. Lots of R1's, and a few wind shirts. Several different puffies. They all get used some a little more than others. I gave up the idea of the perfect pant jacket combo that works in all environments. Gloves are probably the only real department I don't have some type of brand loyalty with. Whatever is the cheapest and offers the best dexterity v warmth. Just can't justify anything over 60 bucks that will get trashed within one season.

Offline strandman

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #11 on: March 05, 2014, 10:02:01 AM »
I don't beat up my gear like i used to..usually,   but it still has to last...Rigid friends are my mainstay..I stocked up when they went out of production, just great gear. It's tough to part with things that work well..like my A5 hammer !!!! NEVER

Offline strandman

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2014, 12:50:59 PM »
Just got a killer deal on some petzl Spirits,,sweet !

Offline sneoh

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #13 on: March 11, 2014, 08:35:52 PM »
I tend to stick to brands I know well and have learnt to trust over the years.  But once in a while I do try something else.  I hit about 0.500 with these adventures.  It is mostly for fun.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Deciding on gear
« Reply #14 on: June 16, 2014, 08:15:34 PM »
Just got a 60m 9.8 Roca rope on sale $118.00 I just bought a 70m Sterling marathon Pro 10.1mm  bi patern.  I am abuseing the heck out of the sterling on my latest project and have not even unwrapped the Roca yet. I instantly had buyers regret over the 70m as it is a lot of rope that you often do not need. I do need it for this project.  Seeing a 60m for that price and I had to spring for a 2nd new rope in a week. Never heard of Roca before but it is rated and I am sure it works just fine.