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Author Topic: Ropes on Lions Head  (Read 2925 times)

frik

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #45 on: March 05, 2014, 01:41:16 PM »

OK... so if we substitute "Rumney" for "Mt Washington" and "quick draws" for "fixed ropes"
everyone is ok with that - right?

PS: I would not cut up the draws....
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WharfRat

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #46 on: March 05, 2014, 01:46:54 PM »

Nope. Take those down when you're done also...

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lucky luke

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #47 on: March 05, 2014, 01:52:38 PM »

As I use the route one or two time in winter. I agree; when you wait on line that a party came down, it is long.

As most client don't know to rap and the route is more a scrambling that people use to do with out rope, I am not sure that it is safer with or without rope. When the feet slip... you need a belay, not a rope who will drag you on the steeper ground. Learning to tie a sit harness with the rope and belaying the client with a rope is safer for me. To go up, make a top rope and down to the client can be more use full and faster too. So, the client will have to learn basic technique and teach how use full it is to know more about mountaineering. And maybe they will take a course of climbing.

As a fast climber, I think that the "ice flow" of people true the difficulty most be reasonable. A party with five people who have hard time most let skill people to go at a normal speed. They most let the other party go down.

So, you gain in speed by using an anchor an belay and you are more respect full if you belay your partner. In that trail, if there is ten people, it is normal to wait 30 minutes with or whit out rope. But when a climber took more than ten minute in a move...it is too slow. Slow climber most let the normal speed climber go first.


 
 
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M_Sprague

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #48 on: March 05, 2014, 02:40:15 PM »

I really don't understand the appeal of doing routes that are known CFs. I would much rather go bushwhack up a lessor hill than deal with that. I tend to avoid popular summer hiking trails though too. The idea of getting stuck behind others, having to constantly pass them, or having some really fast people walking up my ass would ruin it for me. Then again I suppose I am kind of antisocial sometimes, deliberately walking off trail if I hear somebody coming so I don't have to deal with them
« Last Edit: March 05, 2014, 02:48:36 PM by M_Sprague »
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steve weitzler

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #49 on: March 05, 2014, 02:54:06 PM »

I had surgery on my knee three weeks ago and was planning on climbing Mt. Wash in 2 weeks. Please don't remove the ropes as I may need them this time around.
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frik

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #50 on: March 05, 2014, 03:28:21 PM »

Luke, you are at the top of your game.
People, behold the master at work.
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DLottmann

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #51 on: March 05, 2014, 04:17:04 PM »

... Slow climber most let the normal speed climber go first.

Except on Standard Route Right?

Seriously though, “normal” speed is hard to quantify, which is why I think you brought up the whole commitment rating in another thread...
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strandman

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #52 on: March 05, 2014, 05:36:10 PM »

I really don't understand the appeal of doing routes that are known CFs. I would much rather go bushwhack up a lessor hill than deal with that. I tend to avoid popular summer hiking trails though too. The idea of getting stuck behind others, having to constantly pass them, or having some really fast people walking up my ass would ruin it for me. Then again I suppose I am kind of antisocial sometimes, deliberately walking off trail if I hear somebody coming so I don't have to deal with them

Sure, but your a bit fuckin' whacked ? ;) ;)
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DaveR

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #53 on: March 05, 2014, 06:26:10 PM »

OK... so if we substitute "Rumney" for "Mt Washington" and "quick draws" for "fixed ropes"
everyone is ok with that - right?

PS: I would not cut up the draws....

No, remove your stuff there also.
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lucky luke

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #54 on: March 05, 2014, 09:23:50 PM »

Except on Standard Route Right?

Seriously though, “normal” speed is hard to quantify, which is why I think you brought up the whole commitment rating in another thread...

On standard, I follow the current. I won't pass those who where above me and I didn't stop any climber going the same speed. A guide zig zag between us and didn't respect the other climber.

Yes normal speed is hard to find, but guides are supposed to see a lot of people and certainly can argue about the commitment rating. It could be interesting to have discussion between you and strandman on a particular route, like fun house. For me, an hour a pitch is some thing normal. People who take an hour an a half are slow and two hours most climb easier route. But you have to discuss technically why you decide that it is an hours and ventilator an hour and a half.
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DaveR

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #55 on: March 06, 2014, 07:02:14 AM »

I don't have a dog in this fight either way, but it is possible to descend the trail while they are screwing around with the fixed ropes.
Granted it's a little downclimbing to stay out of their way, but you just climbed a route in Huntingtons.
I've done it twice this year. Both cases a school outing group. 
I think people are afraid to do it because the "official" will yell at them. I told the leader I was just going to scoot by. He was cool with it.
Another hiker, waiting in a line of maybe 16, not with the group yelled "hey why don't you wait your turn". I said "because it's not bowling"
It wasn't even close to being a problem.

I know it's a philosophical issue, and it's a slippery slope, but 30' of rope on a mountain with a TV station on top is not the end of the world.

Pretty much what I do. I won't wait around and get cold and be late for dinner and beer because of a bunch of people who can't move thru 30' of terrain that is barely 4th class. A couple of weeks ago I passed some people going up Flume Slide and they were pissed. I got a lecture for being out alone and a lecture as I passed from the bumbly group leader about how rude it was to pass people on the trail!

No fixed ropes on Flume slide or Trypyramid in winter with no crowds and there are far more places to fuck up on them than Lions Head. :)
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JBrochu

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #56 on: March 06, 2014, 09:01:49 AM »

The concept of a "group leader" for a hike is another thing that has always blown my mind.
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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #57 on: March 06, 2014, 09:04:57 AM »

The concept of a "group leader" for a hike is another thing that has always blown my mind.

for many people I agree, but for Mt Washington let's be realistic here... Tho it's called a "hike" it's really a lot more serious than that much of the time.
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JBrochu

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #58 on: March 06, 2014, 09:30:18 AM »

The concept of a "group leader" for a hike is another thing that has always blown my mind.

for many people I agree, but for Mt Washington let's be realistic here... Tho it's called a "hike" it's really a lot more serious than that much of the time.

I guess if you absolutely positively have to do it on a specific day. But then again that's a bad mindset to take into the mountains -- especially for someone that's inexperienced.

For myself, even with plenty of experience I cannot tell you how many times I just decided to do a lesser mountain or find something to do below treeline because conditions were miserable up high.

I did get caught in a whiteout above the alpine garden the first time I did Washington in the winter. Had to navigate to the summit by following the humming sound of the cables holding down the buildings on top, then crawled down the auto road until hooking up with a trail leading back to Pinkham.
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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

DLottmann

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #59 on: March 06, 2014, 10:32:22 AM »

[quote author=JBrochu link=topic=8379.msg65300#msg65300 date=

I did get caught in a whiteout above the alpine garden the first time I did Washington in the winter. Had to navigate to the summit by following the humming sound of the cables holding down the buildings on top, then crawled down the auto road until hooking up with a trail leading back to Pinkham.
[/quote]

One of the reasons people choose to go with a guide. Many folks suffer heading down the auto road which is twice as exposed as heading down Lions Head... Most have no map,compass, or skills using them...
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