Author Topic: Ropes on Lions Head  (Read 3569 times)

Offline perswig

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #30 on: March 05, 2014, 09:34:06 AM »
and it's a slippery slope ...

Well, yeah, isn't that why there's a rope there??

(grin)
Dale

If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #31 on: March 05, 2014, 09:34:43 AM »
as long as they use 200 ft 8.8mm everdry.  Also they should periodically inspect and replace all fixed lines so they are always in excellent condition.
also Bicolor, original packaging nearby for product verification
and a cool sticker for your effin roofbox.  ;D
Don't Climb

DLottmann

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #32 on: March 05, 2014, 09:36:56 AM »
And quick question for DaveR, ELM, and JBrochu: You all made anti-step cutting comments on trails, I was curious how you felt about the massive trail work at Rumney to facilitate travel?
..Just because this trail cannot be traversed by "everyone" easily in the winter is not a good enough reason to fix a line. Many people should not be on that trail in the summer let alone the winter.

Thanks DaveR, ELM, and JBrochu for satisfying my curiosity... wasn’t implying anything but was just curious...

One point that should be clarified is the Winter Route is not open in the summer. It is not designed for travel when the ground isn’t snow covered/frozen and climbing it in the summer would lead to massive erosion issues on the route.

Offline JBrochu

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #33 on: March 05, 2014, 09:38:02 AM »
For those coming down from Huntington: just curious, is Escape Hatch not in good nick right now? I know it sucks in the early season but if it's not in good shape by now the snow must be quite low up there this year?

 
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

DLottmann

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #34 on: March 05, 2014, 09:40:18 AM »
...it is possible to descend the trail while they are screwing around with the fixed ropes.

I think this 10 foot ice section off to climber’s right is enduringly referred to as the “Wilcox Direct” or “Townsend Direct” depending on the guide making the reference  :P

DLottmann

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #35 on: March 05, 2014, 09:41:32 AM »
For those coming down from Huntington: just curious, is Escape Hatch not in good nick right now? I know it sucks in the early season but if it's not in good shape by now the snow must be quite low up there this year?

Post hole nasty bushwhack madness... until the deeper layers consolidate it travel off travel in none wind blasted areas is very difficult...

Offline ELM

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #36 on: March 05, 2014, 09:44:23 AM »
I really do wish there was a water slide from the top of Whitehorse though... ;D
Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

Offline fresh

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #37 on: March 05, 2014, 09:50:28 AM »
noticing a conspicuous absence of discussion of Michael Wejchert's cutting of the fixed line, which he discusses here: http://farnorthclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/03/on-ropes_4.html

the fixed line changes the experience for anyone else who wants to climb the mountain without using fixed gear. I know it seems ridiculous to anyone who runs laps on it every winter, but for aspiring mountaineers, doing Washington in winter on your own is a big deal. I don't see why guides can't fix the line each time they go up and carry it with them. can't see any other reason for keeping the fixed line in place but convenience.

Reggie

Online strandman

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #38 on: March 05, 2014, 09:54:34 AM »
What about the huntington "trail"  in summer..surely that needs a line ?  and maybe a guardrail atop the Airation Buttress and...

Offline JBrochu

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #39 on: March 05, 2014, 10:01:24 AM »
That blog was awesome. I loved this part...

Quote
I am the punk who pulled the fixed rope on Lions Head on Saturday, March 1rst, 2014.  In true "punk" fashion, I didn't just pull it.  I cut it into little pieces, stuffed it into my pack, and tied one piece on the outside so if anyone had any questions that day on the mountain they'd know who the culprit was.  I admit there was a smack of egotism in tying the remaining bit of rope to my pack.  The owner of the rope called me out on cutting it and I gave him my name and my employer.  At no point did I attempt to hide in any shadows.


To clarify my position: the fixed rope doesn't bother me nearly as much as cutting steps into the rock in Franconia. I was more baffled that people actually felt the need for it.

I'm also now baffled that apparently dozens of people are hiring guides every weekend day to walk them up Lions Head...? Who would have ever thunk it...
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Online strandman

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #40 on: March 05, 2014, 10:19:21 AM »
no problem with M removing the rope..prolly shouldn't have cut it up but...if  you gonna go for it.....

DLottmann

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #41 on: March 05, 2014, 10:20:04 AM »
...
I'm also now baffled that apparently dozens of people are hiring guides every weekend day to walk them up Lions Head...? Who would have ever thunk it...

Shouldn’t be that surprising... with the popularity of shows like “Everest” more and more people are wanting to give the sport a try... and Mt. Washington is quite accessible for 1/4 of the country’s population. Not everyone that wants to try climbing needs to go out a buy plastic mountaineering boots, crampons, and an ice axe, or learn how to navigate in a white out (though I love teaching that).

Hiring a guide usually means these things are included. I think of the people I’ve guided up there (and over 10 years it’s in the hundreds) less than half will go on to actually become “climbers”. And that’s ok... they have an awesome experience to reflect back on, share with office mates, family, etc. Many who do go on to become climbers have looked at there 3 day intro to mountaineering as the first stepping stone in what becomes a lifetime passion... I think most guides are honored to have played a small role in their new found addiction.

I think as experienced climbers we take for granted how much goes into a quality ascent of a mountain like Washington... we’ve been doing it so long. If you spend much time on that mountain in the winter you can’t help but be amazed by the amount of folks who have never packed a backpack properly, unsure of their clothing systems, can’t set an efficient climbing pace, not sure where the trail goes above Alpine Garden (many lately try to tag on behind a guided group)...

Offline DaveR

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #42 on: March 05, 2014, 11:19:23 AM »
noticing a conspicuous absence of discussion of Michael Wejchert's cutting of the fixed line, which he discusses here: http://farnorthclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/03/on-ropes_4.html

the fixed line changes the experience for anyone else who wants to climb the mountain without using fixed gear. I know it seems ridiculous to anyone who runs laps on it every winter, but for aspiring mountaineers, doing Washington in winter on your own is a big deal. I don't see why guides can't fix the line each time they go up and carry it with them. can't see any other reason for keeping the fixed line in place but convenience.

Reggie

I have no problem with what Mike did. I just would not have wasted my time to cut it up.

darwined

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #43 on: March 05, 2014, 12:14:44 PM »
Micheal Wejchert,

Much respect brother.


Offline WharfRat

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Re: Ropes on Lions Head
« Reply #44 on: March 05, 2014, 01:02:18 PM »
I don't chime in much anymore on Internet forums as most of the time it really does not need to be said. Often my opinions are unpopular and a tift for a tat is a waste of all our energy.

In this case my hats off to you Michael and I am compelled to be a voice that risks saying so. I don't make it up that way much but if I ever do and I find a rope I will also take it down. I think I would carry it out and leave it at the visitors center. That is not to say I do not like your cut it up and hang a piece on your pack approach because I do. On the other hand well I see the other hand and think it would be more productive.