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Author Topic: Working a Route  (Read 799 times)

strandman

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Working a Route
« on: March 10, 2014, 10:42:37 AM »

What's the longest time you have spent working a route ???? Days ? Weeks ??
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crazyt

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2014, 12:08:59 PM »

If I can't get it that day I lose interest.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2014, 01:13:09 PM »

If it is an established climb if i do not get it in two or 3 tries I lose interest. Big ice climbs I sometimes run away with my tail between my legs and have to come back annother day when I feel braver.  New rock routes depending on how much cleaning is involved 6 days is pretty normal for me.
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SA

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2014, 05:17:48 PM »

I have never worked a route. Perhaps that is why I never progressed into the higher grades.
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darwined

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2014, 05:20:20 PM »

Depends on the fall.  If I'm gonna hit the ground or ledge, one or two tries is plenty.
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strandman

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2014, 05:53:01 PM »

Interesting...other than new routes, the only routes i have spent more than a day on were dangerous..or lab Wall Direct
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bag11s

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2014, 08:42:27 PM »

Just the opposite for me- many many days on a lot of projects. Some resolved with success and some not, but really good either way. Some of my very best climbing was done on routes or pitches I failed overall on. For me the process of working and solving complex boulder problems on routes is totally engrossing and entertaining. Success on sight is satisfying also, but the challenge of redpointing something that initially seems ridiculous is super fun.
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sneoh

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #7 on: March 10, 2014, 08:48:39 PM »

I spent a lot of days getting the pinkpoint on my first .12a sport route.  Between first getting on it (and getting NOWHERE) and eventually the PP, it was a span of about three years.  Realistically I had no chance of a PP the first two years of that span.  Silly me.  I have gotten a lot smarter and A LOT less patient since. 
I also got to know my limits a lot better since then, I now send in about three tries or I abandon.  There are exceptions of course but I am not going to divulge them here. :)
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JoeC

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2014, 09:13:03 PM »

Ive worked boulder problems for a while before I sent.  Climbing routes I havent really pushed my self too hard.  Thats going to change this year tho.........
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Admin Al

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2014, 07:02:21 AM »

I rarely work a climb more than a couple of times, but I really don't push myself that much. The one exception was Ego Trip. I must have tried it 10 times over a couple of weeks, always at about 7am before work one summer. The problem was the crux move over that pesky overlap. Every time I couldn't get it I would pull the rope and do it again.

In retrospect "what was thinking?"
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Pete Jackson

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #10 on: March 11, 2014, 09:53:44 AM »

What's the longest time you have spent working a route ???? Days ? Weeks ??

I've been working on My hard project since July 2010. :) I've topped out with many hangs, done all the moves, etc, but never linked them all together. It's too hard for me but I still consider it a project because it keeps me motivated to learn and keep trying.
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old_school

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2014, 09:58:47 AM »

Longest was 6 weeks on Captain Fingers at Rumney...you can cheat and go right, but I wanted to get it the way it was designed. Thing is...its an awful route!!! lol About a Month on Apocalypse...got that (great route...even after the hold broke!!) And about a month on Flesh For Lulu...still haven't gotten it clean...I'm fat!!!  :P
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strandman

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2014, 10:54:41 AM »

BITD i really sucked at bouldering..really bad. i got obsessed about a route  at Lincoln Woods, short little slab.. maybe 12' high.. I limited myself to 3 tries per visit.. 52 tries later( I wrote it down )   ::)  Then sticky rubber came out and it was easy.

Armaggedon on Cathedral... 7 visits over several years..maybe 3-4 falls total, no more than 10-15'..the gear is suspect and then there is none...

Clean Sweep took 5 days, but 3+ of that was scrubbing !
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JoeC

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #13 on: March 11, 2014, 01:57:11 PM »

Flesh is definitely on my tick list!
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M_Sprague

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Re: Working a Route
« Reply #14 on: March 11, 2014, 05:51:40 PM »

On my hardest FA, King Cobra at Rumney I think I spent about a month of weekends actually trying to climb it, maybe a little more. Most of my harder projects are FAs, so I spend a lot of time cleaning and bolting them, usually climbing sections over and over again while doing that, so it is hard to quantify actual climbing time. A lot of them I can't get back on regularly too.
Some projects take me years since once I have TRed  a project, if I don't manage to lead it right away, I usually have found some other potential line that I am all excited about which takes my attention. Regarding other people's routes, Ward's Rocket Man at Rumney kept me working on and off for a several years. I managed to TR it a couple times, but was never on it consistently enough to lead it successfully; I kept having to relearn it. I don't mind working on a good route for a long time, but my attention is easily distracted by other new lines. At any crag I go to I am pretty much immediately looking at new route potential. My goal this year is not to allow myself to get distracted and clean up and finish at least 5 old projects before any new one, lol. I had to make a spreadsheet this winter to try to remember them all.
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