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Author Topic: what the plan for the season?  (Read 1367 times)

lucky luke

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what the plan for the season?
« on: March 13, 2014, 01:50:15 PM »

Going to try the nose in september, so I have to plan my season to be in top shape at that moment. I am training for strenght actually and will train for technique as soon as the xyz >:( snow will disappear. I plan to climb sport in the spring and multipitch route of 5.7, 5.8 and increase my work out to multi pitch of 5.9- 5.11 in june. Will take a rest, trtain for strenght and pick in september.

So, did you plan your season? and how are yopu going to be prepare?
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WharfRat

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2014, 02:22:28 PM »

No plan,

Although I envy your Approach and commitment.

It reminds me of the approach I once took to training for endurance sports. I really enjoyed and miss the very deliberate committed focused training I did back then. Now I just climb myself into shape with only loose goals.

For instance last season my second season rock climbing I just wanted to lead 5.10 gear with ease. I go to the point I could onsight 5.10b on gear by mid season C's with a couple falls and a few d's with some work. Well leading 5.10D at the Gunks things came to a abrupt halt but that did not stop me from trying. Other than that I wanted to onsight some 5.11 sport and I did that pretty easy also pretty early in the season. I never did crack the 5.12's I tried but I did come close.

This past ice season, maybe my 5th I wanted to move from leading 4's to 5's I also did that with relative ease just climbing week in and week out and no training.

If I could find the right partners to train for bigger objectives I would. Most all my partners are older, have full time 9-5's families and can't commit for one reason or another to big trips worth actually training for. That is not to say that once upon a time they did not as they did. I just happen to be 20-30 years younger than them and have no desire for a family of my own hence plenty of time and motivation to climb.

My plan this season is to lead 5.11 gear and 5.12 sport and have lots of fun sleeping in the back of my truck or on the ground eating outa a cooler and waking up with the sun. f I get someplace cool also that is a bonus. I do have a tentative plan to get to France for the next winter climbing season but I will believe it only when I land in France and only when I land in France.

So my goals, have fun and climb harder than I did last season even if only by very little. And climb more than work. If I do that I will sleep well....
« Last Edit: March 13, 2014, 06:31:59 PM by WharfRat »
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strandman

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2014, 05:55:15 PM »

Sorry to say LL..endurance it what you want for the nose..strength and technique is fine, but will only get you so far. It's VERY hard to get ready in the east.
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lucky luke

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2014, 07:17:57 PM »

Sorry to say LL..endurance it what you want for the nose..strength and technique is fine, but will only get you so far. It's VERY hard to get ready in the east.

Hard but feasible. The nose have 32 pitch, in five day it is six pitch a day. Great five traverse, the gurdle traverse with an haulbag, vertigo, union, dolomite, and moby to the top in a day.

Harder is to find some one whit time and motivation to climb at a modest level to reach such a big wall. some time I can climb with a partner in a morning and an other in the afternoon.

I think that gypsie, intimidation, diedral, recompense in a day will be a full day of climbing. Around ten pitches.
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strandman

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2014, 09:20:33 PM »

True,,but remember the big rack   :D  and the haul bag
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SA

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2014, 07:38:46 AM »

LL,

Doing the Nose is just a lot of work. More than half the people bail because of the mental problem, rather than the lack of technical skills. When I did it in 1971, my partner wanted to bail when we were half way up, ( the weather was bad). I convinced him to go up and the weather cleared. You just have to be tough and have the right mental attitude. Having a good partner is more than half the battle in getting up any route on El Cap.

I'm sure you already know this.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2014, 07:54:41 AM »

don't forget to work the x possition;)  seriously I would think cannon is the place to train for any serious big wall adventures. I was chatting with Tim D. once and he told me that Moby takes him about 20 min to climb unroped. that is probobly a decent fitness level to strive for:)
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xcrag_corex

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2014, 08:17:50 AM »

Goals goals goals. So much to climb, so little time.... Ultimately I would like to put in a bit of time on Cannon this year, Climb at Greens, tick off a couple of classics at WH and Cathedral, and make it back to the Gunks. Above all else, I want to spend time climbing with my friends. Normally get a bit of mileage and flight time in on some or the rad trad cracks at P-Way. There are definitely some projects out there that I'm hoping will go this season for me :D
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-Jeremy Ballou

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OldEric

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2014, 09:55:31 AM »

True,,but remember the big rack   :D  and the haul bag

Bingo.  When we did the in 77 I thought we were well prepared having spent long days doing plenty of (relatively) hard stuff on Cannon etc.  And we were technically ready - no climbing came close to stopping us.  But that first day of hauling when the bag is the heaviest and the angle the lowest was brutal.

That's why people that jug the pig to Heart and then do the Free Blast without the load have NOT done the Salathe IMHO.
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strandman

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #9 on: March 14, 2014, 11:02:05 AM »

We hauled a relatively small pig for a 2 biv ascent of the Nose..I vowed never again..Fact is the hauling on the Nose really sucks  until above El Cap tower (about halfway)

LL- i know you want onsight ascent, so don't read anymore-

6 pitches a day is fine theory..so where is biv #1 ?  a couple pitches above Sickle ?? that won't work//you better hit Dolt at least  ..prolly 10 pitches up with combo pitches

5 days.. 2 people is about 75lbs just in water..3 ropes..shit tube etc..it really adds up fast  I really got into the fast/light thing in Yos and it seemed so much better....you get to do 2 walls a week instead of one  ;D
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DGoguen

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2014, 12:18:12 PM »

Along that same line as above.
Do a few local aid climbs at night for training. We arrived at Dolt around Midnight, not the place to try it for the first time.
Brought the bags across the King Swing at night, Etc.
Day and night kind of blend after a while.
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Don't Climb

strandman

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2014, 12:27:25 PM »

12 hours is the "easy' day... we did Watkins in the "daypack only" mode, maybe 15-18 lbs. Sure your wiped out, but NOT from hauling and fucking around...from climbing.

Imagine practice hauling a 75 lb pig on Intimidation ??  the HORROR
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lucky luke

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2014, 07:25:23 PM »

LL- i know you want onsight ascent, so don't read anymore-

For me, it is a kind of revenge. I can't do a first ascent any more. I was in...leading the easier of 4 pitch...

I trained so much, goiing climbing to north conway, sleeping little, working to make money...pushing over the limit.

I was climbing the route. My body said no!!!. My head was empty... (72 hours drive in three days, after five days in yosemite... and some climb around between thunderstorm)

Don't laught. I jug the nose. I was with a good partner and I follow him, I helped him as my hauling technique was good.

I took two years to come back to my level. This year, I feel confortable and ready. One month in the yos!!!

for hauling...I practice on the pro with 80 pounds pack. Rock in the haul bag.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2014, 07:27:56 PM by lucky luke »
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SA

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2014, 07:59:33 AM »

When did head lamps come in?

We never had any when I did the Nose. I remember hanging from the rope one night, on a blank face, since we couldn't see a damn thing, once the sun went down. Not a good night for sleeping.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #14 on: March 15, 2014, 08:44:33 AM »

Remember those big  red plastic headlamps with the rubber innertube headband and really expensive D cell lithium battery that Climb High sold back in the eightys...
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