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[DGoguen]

Remember those big  red plastic headlamps

In winter you had to keep the  4D size battery pack in your underwear and run the wires to your head just to keep it warm and working.
I really don't miss winter camping,  I gotta say.

[Pete Jackson]

Going to try the nose in september, so I have to plan my season to be in top shape at that moment. I am training for strenght actually and will train for technique as soon as the xyz snow will disappear. I plan to climb sport in the spring and multipitch route of 5.7, 5.8 and increase my work out to multi pitch of 5.9- 5.11 in june. Will take a rest, trtain for strenght and pick in september.

So, did you plan your season? and how are yopu going to be prepare?

I am looking forward to hearing the stories from this trip! Good luck, Luke. And I hope your training season is fruitful.

I have not climbed the nose, but I'd say to aim for longer days than 10 pitches while training. Maybe carry some of those rocks by the trailhead back up tot the top of Canon?

In any case: best of luck, and I hope you meet your goal this year!

[tradmanclimbz]

Plan to get back on my 4 unfinished projects and finish them up. Found a new area this winter that is too far away for day trips. Hope to camp a few weekends there with extra extra batterys and all the fixings:)

[strandman]

Big pack...big thrash   

[tradmanclimbz]

Actually it is going to be van camping

[Admin Al]

I'm hoping to finish up a couple of projects I've had in the works for a while. I also want to get out to some different places, like Longstack for some variety. Going to the Gunks in May with George for a week is also on the list. A real road trip would be nice, but that isn't going to happen due to musical commitments - I'm booked playing gigs almost every weekend into the fall!

[David_G48]

Al,
There are 2 kinds of employed workers; over worked and out of work. The decision is a personal one.........you probably are currently following the best coarse of action.
Cheers
David

[ralbert20]

I'm lucky, my season has already started. We just got back from 3 days at T-Wall in TN. Next Saturday we are heading to JTree and Tahquitz/ SR for the first time. We also booked a week at the climber's ranch in WY in August, and plan on hitting the high Sierra or possibly the Bugs for a week as well. There is also talk of El Potrero for Christmas. Those are the big plans. I would like to get back to the Dacks, having only been there once, and I would like to continue working on 10s in the Gunks, having only gotten a few so far. I would also like to do another lap on Vertigo, and some of the other Cannon classics that I have not done for a while, since for some reason I did not get there at all last year! Up in Conway, I'd like to finally have the cajones to finish Children's Crusade, Total Recall, and hopefully Loose lips. I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

Training involves 2 days inside the gym during the week, and at least 1 day outside every weekend. I am following Horst's guide for climbing 5.12 for the first time. We'll see how it pans out. I don't actually care about sending 12s, hard 10s on sight is my goal, with possibly a 12 on sport if I find the right one.

I am fortunate that I have a GF who likes to climb as much as I do

Al- Longstack is super fun. We spent 3 days there last year, loved it!

[lucky luke]

I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

training to have better grip? any one have training plan for that? some think fun to keep motivation

[JBeta]

I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

training to have better grip? any one have training plan for that? some think fun to keep motivation

Hangboarding. There's no better way to increase finger strength.

Check out the Beastmaker 2000. It even has a cool training app: http://www.revolutionclimbing.com/BEASTMAKER--2000-Series-Training-Board_p_299.html

[strandman]

Quiincy Quarries will get your fingers strong.

ralbert--Suicide is so good and a nice break from JT ripping

[sneoh]

Rob, I believe I know that "last" move on Airation you mentioned.  As I recall, it is pretty painful on the pinky for me.  But your hand and fingers are larger than mine so it might just be tips for you on the thinner "jams".  After the first try on it, I found it to be quite reasonable at .10+/.11- if one finds and uses all the footholds on the face.  They might be a little hard to spot first and second go but they are there. 

Head over to Sundown too.  I found Vultures as hard if not harder than Airation.  Hot Henry does not give anything away, that is for sure.  You might find Romper Room and/or Eyeless to fit your "sporting" style.  Both are solid at their grades and climb well.

[strandman]

At sundown..try Shadowline..rather harder than 11- ..it's original grade

[kenreville]

If you choose to heed Mr. Strands suggestion, keep in mind that Shadowline is (IMO) one big sandbag.

[JBeta]

 

Head over to Sundown too.  I found Vultures as hard if not harder than Airation.  Hot Henry does not give anything away, that is for sure.  You might find Romper Room and/or Eyeless to fit your "sporting" style.  Both are solid at their grades and climb well.

Definitely agree with this. Sundown is a great early-season spot. And Eyeless stays dry no matter what's going on with the weather. Now if only someone would bolt that old sketchy .10 just left of Eyeless. It would be great to have a quick warmup on that wall.