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Author Topic: trad rating system problem  (Read 929 times)

CD

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Re: trad rating system problem
« Reply #30 on: March 26, 2014, 07:11:21 PM »

wow
What about slabs? A 5.10 slab will still require 3 points of contact.

What about juggy overhangs? There are 5.3 overhangs in the Gunks that may require only 2 points of contact at times.

The rating system is already subjective, and trying to add more subjectivity to it would only further confuse people in my opinion. That is where route descriptions are important, i.e. "A 5.8 route for a 5.10 leader".

I climbed a coule of 5.10 slab. I try a couple without great style. My partner was more stronger than me. And there is no three point of contact. ventilator is a rapid change from small hand hole to a friction move on the right feet. I always take the bolt on my hands on that one. Maybe I will be able to do it, but I focus on the bolt for a reason or an other. very great. odesey of an artichoke...5.9 slab. I run to make it just on one feet at a time with maximum pressure. Interloper...second pitch...very few hold for your feet, where the weight transfer is more important...and see the very small friction that I don't call a hole. western lady is the same.

For the jug, He is three point of contact at 5.6. I don't know other. Some times, a move without three point of contact could be easier. It is like when you climb stair. You can do it in moving one arm or leg at a time, so three point of contact at all time, but you can use one hand and one feet to do it...or jump on one feet!!! So, the technique is very important and the choice of it. I don't think personally that a gym climber who use a 5.11 technique to climb a 5.6 move is a great climber...and i don't think that he can analyse a move.

British were coming, canon 5.8. It is a place where they wrote 5.8 route for a 5.10 climber. As you are concern by safety as me, you will agree that it is easier to protect a 5.8 route than to protect a 5.10. When you red on the evolution of the pro, from the bolt of ship to the earlier cam, you saw the limit of a pro and why an other appear to push that limit. Stopper are slot in a crack, but a hex have a caming effect for horizontal crack for example. Tricam are more effective than hex in caming. So, the expression 5.8 to a 5.10 climber refer to the way you protect the climb.

I will agree that the three point of contact is safer than the two point and in dangerous place, one can use the three point even if it is more strenous. Flag or barn door is one example of that. The inverse can be true too. A move can be safer at 5.10 than at 5.8. so the expression 5.8 to 5.10 climber. I could say that in british...it is the protection, not the move.   

 
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keep it weird.
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