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Author Topic: Practice trad locations in MA/NH  (Read 784 times)

Max Forbes

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Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« on: March 16, 2014, 01:04:04 PM »

Whats up guys? I'm really hoping to take the next step forward in my climbing this summer and I really think working in some solid trad skills is the next best thing for me in terms of moving forward.

I don't necessarily have the money for a full rack so I'm going to start of with a small set of stuff before building up. I do not plan on doing any full leads for quite some time, and especially not until I get a complete set of gear.

For now I am probably buying:

Stoppers 4-13
Cams .3 - 3


My hope is get some recommendations for TOP-ROPE crags and locations that I can practice placing gear, as well as practice more crack climbing techniques. These spots don't even need to have fully protectable climbs. I am really just looking to mock-lead and place a lot of gear over the course of the summer before I decide to do a full on lead. Plus I can't really afford a complete set of gear, so until I can, I will just be focusing on practice placement. I really want to get a feel of how gear goes in, how the rope runs, and the whole process of actually stopping your climb and putting in your pro.

I am currently going to school in Burlington (and theres plenty of practice out here) but I will be home in Reading, MA this summer. (Reading is slightly north of Boston). I am looking for locations that I can top-rope and practice placing gear. These spots would ideally be in MA, but I will also be making a lot of weekend trips to Ossipee, NH, which is pretty close to North Conway, so areas around there would also be much appreciated. Also if anyone has more suggestions as to start-up gear to look into more that would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2014, 02:08:19 PM »

 Deer Leap in killington dries out quickly in the spring though the approach can be icy so a minimum of micro spikes is advised. Excelent place for 25m moderate trad leads.  The south face of top rock has a few dead easy G rated leads. this would be worth hitting up before you head home from Burlington. Center crack is a great beginner trad lead. your rack sounds good. I would definatly try to add add a 2nd #5,#6,#7, and #8 stoppers
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cjdrover

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2014, 03:46:39 PM »

You may not realize it, but you are starting with close to what most here consider a full rack. Your proposed starting rack is 85% complete. Most people would add a few micro cams (can usually get by without if your nutcraft is solid) and perhaps a tricam or two, and some extra nuts (offset brassies!) and you are set. Later, when you want to get on hard stuff you might double up on specific sizes, but get in the habit of leading with a single set of cams, it makes you a much better climber and you don't have to drag 30 pounds up the climb.

Anyways, MA+NH areas with what you are looking for:

Crow Hill - top access, plenty of G routes
a few things at Quincy Quarries
Upper Cliffs at Pawtuckaway

« Last Edit: March 16, 2014, 03:49:50 PM by cjdrover »
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lucky luke

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2014, 05:42:49 PM »

You may not realize it, but you are starting with close to what most here consider a full rack. Your proposed starting rack is 85% complete.
When I began, I just have tricam instead of cam and two hex, with stopper and rp's. I on sight 5.10 with that without problem.

As a training for trad, i would suggest to do some aid climbing. Be carefull to take a good course with different technique. On the web, you will find some information about aid climbing with two feet on the same aider. Try it on the gym. With two feet on the same aider, you will fall head first to the ground when a pro will doesn't hold. It is the worse position to have. 
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strandman

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2014, 06:43:51 PM »

I'm with tradman..you'll never go wrong in NE by getting extra  stoppers  and you will need lots of biners..lots

check out the new Durham,NH areas
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danf

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2014, 07:23:41 PM »

Max, I live next to Ossipee in Effingham.  Hit me up when you know you'll be up, we take people out with us all the time and would be happy to help someone else out too (especially if you don't mind kids; we have a few!).  We don't climb anything hard yet (surgery slowed me down last year, hope to be getting into the 7-8's on gear this year...).

John's mention of New Durham is spot on.  There are mixed climbs (bolts and gear) at Devils Den, and mostly gear (with some bolts) at the Precipice.  Devils Den is about 90% top-ropeable.  The Precipice will need to be led for the most part.  Square Ledge in Pinkham is another good option- the Chimney is an easy 5 that can be top-roped.  The face routes can be top roped with a 70m rope, or belayed from the top.  Heck, if you just want practice placing gear I know there's a few climbs at Rumney that would take gear between bolts...  The Upper Cliff at P-way is good too.  From the one time I was there, I remember a few gear options at Den Rock down in Mass. 

I'm assuming you can lead sport?
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JoeC

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2014, 09:01:29 PM »

In MA I would hit Crow Hill in Leominster.  Plenty of cracks and trad placements to practice with.
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JChepes

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2014, 10:12:14 PM »

Cape Ann, which is somewhat close to Reading has some great short crack climbs. Mormon Hollow on the western end of the state has great stuff also. Both have top anchors and are easily set up.
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2014, 10:19:38 PM »

I second both New Durham areas and upper cliff at Pawtuckaway. Also head on over to Mountain Project and look up a climb at Pawtuckaway named "the good Book" . Best 5.8 in southern NH and about as G rated as it gets. It sits on the hillside above Boulder Natural. Easy to scramble up the gully to climbers left and set up a TR. Enjoy:)
« Last Edit: March 17, 2014, 09:33:08 AM by xcrag_corex »
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strandman

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2014, 09:21:09 AM »

Crow often stays wet well into spring

i wouldn't totally commit to BD..try some other peoples stuff out first   Wild Country..metolius
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ELM

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2014, 01:03:38 PM »

Max there is a spot in Gloucester right off 128 called Red Rocks. There are a few easily top-roped areas that you can work with there. Pick up the "Boston Rocks" guide book and it can point you to more areas as well.
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Ed Matt
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Max Forbes

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2014, 03:23:31 PM »

Max, I live next to Ossipee in Effingham.  Hit me up when you know you'll be up, we take people out with us all the time and would be happy to help someone else out too (especially if you don't mind kids; we have a few!).  We don't climb anything hard yet (surgery slowed me down last year, hope to be getting into the 7-8's on gear this year...).

John's mention of New Durham is spot on.  There are mixed climbs (bolts and gear) at Devils Den, and mostly gear (with some bolts) at the Precipice.  Devils Den is about 90% top-ropeable.  The Precipice will need to be led for the most part.  Square Ledge in Pinkham is another good option- the Chimney is an easy 5 that can be top-roped.  The face routes can be top roped with a 70m rope, or belayed from the top.  Heck, if you just want practice placing gear I know there's a few climbs at Rumney that would take gear between bolts...  The Upper Cliff at P-way is good too.  From the one time I was there, I remember a few gear options at Den Rock down in Mass. 

I'm assuming you can lead sport?

I'll certainly let you know, I would love the opportunity to make it out with someone who knows the area well. And yea, I've been sport climbing for a while up to 5.10d.
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perswig

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #12 on: March 17, 2014, 05:36:06 PM »

Max, if your fledgling rack need carabiners, particularly lockers, please let me know.
I've got enough to outfit Werner Braun for his next Yos rescue call-out and would be glad to see them on someone's rack. 

PM me or reply here and I'd be glad to send some your way.
Dale
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carp

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2014, 02:12:28 PM »

I remember the size of rack that I felt I needed when I first started. I think I used to carry like 20 cams and two sets of nuts on almost anything. It really just gets in the way. In New England I think I do 90% of my climbs with less than what you have. I think I usually bring like six cams and a set of nuts.

Also check out echo Cliff in Franconia. Lots of short, moderate trad routes right next to each other.
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strandman

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2014, 05:58:58 PM »

i used to climb a fair bit with Bouchard;

double wires to #6
3 Tcu's and 3 friends
20 biners

Worked 90% of the time
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