Author Topic: what the plan for the season?  (Read 2688 times)

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #30 on: March 20, 2014, 05:08:43 PM »
Hangboarding. There's no better way to increase finger strength.

And hit strips, but be careful with them!
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline strandman

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #31 on: March 20, 2014, 06:32:46 PM »
If you choose to heed Mr. Strands suggestion, keep in mind that Shadowline is (IMO) one big sandbag.

I have no problem giving Shadowline 12B

Offline ralbert20

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #32 on: March 24, 2014, 09:04:24 AM »
Rob, I believe I know that "last" move on Airation you mentioned.  As I recall, it is pretty painful on the pinky for me.  But your hand and fingers are larger than mine so it might just be tips for you on the thinner "jams".  After the first try on it, I found it to be quite reasonable at .10+/.11- if one finds and uses all the footholds on the face.  They might be a little hard to spot first and second go but they are there. 

Head over to Sundown too.  I found Vultures as hard if not harder than Airation.  Hot Henry does not give anything away, that is for sure.  You might find Romper Room and/or Eyeless to fit your "sporting" style.  Both are solid at their grades and climb well.

"Sporting" I think you have me confused with someone else Soon! I only climb sport when I can't climb trad for some reason!

Sundown is great - I think Vultures is easier than Airation - since I was able to do it cleanly on TR after failing to lead it, and because it eases up considerably after the first 15' or so, while Airation gets harder as it goes up. A caveat is that I I was on Vultures more recently than Airation though, so I may have gotten stronger since then. I think you are right about the fingers thing - mine don't fit in Airation at all, yet I get great locks on Vultures.

I have not been on Eyeless yet, as the grade has scared me away. Bill S. says it is one of his favorites in New England though, so maybe this year I'll give it a try.

Pete - I was just reading about HIT strips. So far this season has seen me training with an actual plan, and I am seeing improvements for the first time in about 5-6 years. I might give those a try.

Also - since we are now talking about classic cracks - I can't wait to get back on Screaming Yellow Zonkers. That thing totally kicked my ass! 11c, yeah, right!

Offline eyebolter

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Re: what the plan for the season?
« Reply #33 on: March 25, 2014, 06:43:02 PM »
I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

training to have better grip? any one have training plan for that? some think fun to keep motivation

Hangboarding. There's no better way to increase finger strength.

Check out the Beastmaker 2000. It even has a cool training app:

Maybe, but ditch the fingerboard and hit the boulders and you will climb way harder.

If climbing was all about strength we would all be climbing like Sly Stallone (feet off, double dyno every move) in Cliffhanger.

By all means use the fingerboard if you can't boulder (a systems board will translate to climbing far better).   But there is way more to climbing hard than finger strength.