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Author Topic: Practice trad locations in MA/NH  (Read 774 times)

Jeff

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2014, 05:24:52 PM »

Max: ordinarily I would applaud your cautious approach! However, if you have been successful climbing 10d sport for a while (as you stated), with the rack you describe, I would practice placing gear from the ground for a bit, standing in slings and bouncing on the gear a bit to gain confidence that it will hold and then strike out on the lead on G rated trad routes in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, preferably with a more experienced partner who can evaluate your gear placements and make suggestions. Most of us "oldies" on this forum started leading that way, long before we were able to manage 10d sport (when it was all just called "climbing")!!! When in doubt, "over protect", but you'll learn a lot more "on the sharp end", including when to down climb, than you will "practice leading" on a top rope, where you don't have to REALLY trust your gear. JMHO

I also agree with those who say that cams from .3 to # 3 and a rack of nuts (my personal preference is Wild Country Rocks over BD stoppers, but they all work) with doubles in the mid ranges, is a standard rack for a huge % of NE climbs. Good luck and have fun-- the most fun comes on the sharp end of the rope ( yeah, I know all too well that that's where the risk is!)
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Max Forbes

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2014, 01:53:15 PM »

Max: ordinarily I would applaud your cautious approach! However, if you have been successful climbing 10d sport for a while (as you stated), with the rack you describe, I would practice placing gear from the ground for a bit, standing in slings and bouncing on the gear a bit to gain confidence that it will hold and then strike out on the lead on G rated trad routes in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, preferably with a more experienced partner who can evaluate your gear placements and make suggestions. Most of us "oldies" on this forum started leading that way, long before we were able to manage 10d sport (when it was all just called "climbing")!!! When in doubt, "over protect", but you'll learn a lot more "on the sharp end", including when to down climb, than you will "practice leading" on a top rope, where you don't have to REALLY trust your gear. JMHO

I also agree with those who say that cams from .3 to # 3 and a rack of nuts (my personal preference is Wild Country Rocks over BD stoppers, but they all work) with doubles in the mid ranges, is a standard rack for a huge % of NE climbs. Good luck and have fun-- the most fun comes on the sharp end of the rope ( yeah, I know all too well that that's where the risk is!)

Jeff,

I appreciate the feedback. You've pretty much laid out my plan exactly. I have had some professional training on placing gear and for now I really want to get the confidence placing gear, and like you said actually putting my weight on it. I think for me the mock leading is just going to be a good way for me to start off on a route by actually getting up and making sure that I can confidently find a place to put a piece before I actually lead it ground up. I definitely don't plan on mock leading for long, I just think its a good way to safely get off the ground with a full set of gear dangling off me and figuring out systems that work for me so I don't have to sit around up there for five minuets trying to remember where all my gear is.
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SA

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2014, 05:04:18 PM »

Max,

I taught for 15 years at Reading High. P.M. me if you want, since I'm retired and have a very flexible schedule. I'm probably the oldest poster here, or close to it, but still get out a lot. Did a grade 6 in Yosemite last June, so I'm not all washed up yet. Heading to Yosemite in just over a week!! Just bought the tickets one hour ago. I'm happy!
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strandman

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #18 on: March 22, 2014, 05:08:33 PM »

Steve-  is it time for Ne buttress of Higher AGAIN ????
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SA

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #19 on: March 22, 2014, 05:17:17 PM »

We will see. Hanging out with Donini for the week. He has rented a place in Yosemite West for the whole month of April!
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The other tomcat

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #20 on: March 22, 2014, 09:20:17 PM »

If it was me....and I could lead 5.10 sport already...I'd just go to the Gunks and hit easy classics while you place gear. You would get a chance to place way more pieces, on steeper and perhaps more interesting ground. It's not rocket science, you'd be fine. Way more options methinks.


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Tom Stryker

Max Forbes

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Re: Practice trad locations in MA/NH
« Reply #21 on: March 23, 2014, 05:45:17 PM »

Max,

I taught for 15 years at Reading High. P.M. me if you want, since I'm retired and have a very flexible schedule. I'm probably the oldest poster here, or close to it, but still get out a lot. Did a grade 6 in Yosemite last June, so I'm not all washed up yet. Heading to Yosemite in just over a week!! Just bought the tickets one hour ago. I'm happy!

Small world, sent you a PM.
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