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Author Topic: New England Cracks?  (Read 1377 times)

M_Sprague

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #15 on: April 10, 2014, 09:32:48 PM »

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ralbert20

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #17 on: April 11, 2014, 07:51:44 AM »

Sprague - Ha! 12a! I do want to check out that cliff though!

Al - I wandered around for 3 hours one time looking for Crack in the Woods... If I hadn't been there in the winter and seen it, I would not believe it exists... I have walked by Powderfinger a bunch - it looks hard! Steaksauce is right out of my league. I got on SYZ last year for the first time. That is an amazing climb!
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strandman

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #18 on: April 11, 2014, 10:14:04 AM »

IMO powderfinger may be a bit over the top..it gets much easier after the first 10'..Meatgrinder at Cannon and Duet Direct.....Jack the Ripper
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eyebolter

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #19 on: April 11, 2014, 03:36:32 PM »


Al - I wandered around for 3 hours one time looking for Crack in the Woods... If I hadn't been there in the winter and seen it, I would not believe it exists... I have walked by Powderfinger a bunch - it looks hard! Steaksauce is right out of my league. I got on SYZ last year for the first time. That is an amazing climb!

Go when the leaves are off the trees and you will find it; I did first try.    Gets my vote for best handcrack in New England.  While we were there a bear came down around the end of the cliff through the woods.
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M_Sprague

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #20 on: April 11, 2014, 04:41:22 PM »

Does the fixed anchor of Crack in the Woods still need replacement? I have been wanting to check this crag out for a long time and wouldn't mind replacing it and giving a bit of a scrub if needed. How is it getting around to the top where you could rap in? and how long a rope would you need to reach the ground single strand?

Also, what is the deal with the old pins on Pumping Station? I would imagine they would be rotted out by now. I suppose it would be blasphemous to even broach the subject of whether they should be replaced with stainless bolts 1 for 1 if modern clean gear doesn't protect it. I haven't even seen a picture of the route, so have no idea, nor do I know Tom's current thoughts. Some are fine with modernizing gear when replacing and it makes sense (like Jimmy Dunn), others take it as a personal affront. It sounds like a great route. It would be a shame people aren't getting on it because the fixed gear is rotting out and it needs a brush.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2014, 04:59:39 PM by M_Sprague »
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strandman

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #21 on: April 11, 2014, 06:59:02 PM »

I would guess Tom would be OK with it but I'm not positive..he worked really hard getting those pins in.. I'll get you in touch if you like.

Pumping is a good line,, way steep and has a nice crack at the end..hand & fisty  !! i think only one of the bolted lines has been re done.

Crack anchor was a horror show years ago..it kinda mossed over so you can't see it  Good, it was a hex and stopper.  brilliant climb
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M_Sprague

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #22 on: April 11, 2014, 10:12:06 PM »

Thanks, John. I'll try to get out there this spring and have a look, probably once the bugs are out. I am trying to actually get some climbing in before then. I can scrub and bolt in my bug suit. I think Tom Nonus gave me Callaghan's # last year. I'll see if I still have it. If not, your help reaching him would be great.
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"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

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SA

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #23 on: April 12, 2014, 06:32:26 PM »

Crack in the Woods is perhaps the best pure "Yosemite Type" crack in New England. I just came back from Yosemite yesterday, climbing with a true crack master Donini for 10 days. Crack in the Woods would be rated in the 11 range if it was in Yosemite.
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strandman

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #24 on: April 12, 2014, 07:11:38 PM »

it's a gimme at 10C..really it's closer to 9+...  given that possessed is 11C   RIGHT
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eyebolter

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2014, 07:27:29 PM »

Didn't seem 11 to me when I did it, but then I'm good at hand cracks for a sport climber.

I must say that my buddy the Droid who was pretty good at 5.10 face couldn't get ten feet off the ground on it, but then he couldn't hand jam to save his life.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2014, 07:29:51 PM by eyebolter »
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ralbert20

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #26 on: April 14, 2014, 08:34:48 AM »

Oh man! I am in TROUBLE then!  ;D
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Maxsuffering

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #27 on: April 17, 2014, 05:25:36 PM »

A second thumbs up for the Spiders Web. Drop, Fly or Die is the one route up there which everyone says isn't a sandbag, but Mellor will still look you dead in the eye and tell you its's "certainly no harder than .10c." Seems to me about as hard as Lichen Delight.

Crack In The Woods would be 5.11 at Indian Creek.
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strandman

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #28 on: April 17, 2014, 05:29:27 PM »

Ouch ! 11 at IC ???   i will be out there in a couple of weeks, maybe I'll compare it to all the IC 11's i have fallen on
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Maxsuffering

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Re: New England Cracks?
« Reply #29 on: April 17, 2014, 05:38:02 PM »

I'm going to be in The Creek in a couple of weeks too... let me know, I don't drink but I'd certainly have a seltzer with the legend. Should be entertaining since I haven't climbed in five months.

Maybe I'm not the person to ask since I've only been on C.I.T.W. once but I was definitely working for it, seemed at least as hard as the .11s I did at I.C. last fall.
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