New England Cracks?

[ralbert20]

Another Monday, another question.

We were at TWall last week, and these two burly kids from New Hampshire came by. They proceeded to get on an offwidthy-horrible looking thing, and sent it no problem. I watched in fascinated horror, and asked them where they learned to crack climb, since I am ignorant of good/ hard cracks in the New England area. They replied (rather gruffly) that they are here, you just have to look for them. I know of a couple, but few "true" cracks, where you can't cheat with face holds.

So, now I want a list of vertical crack climbs in New England/ North East. I am very bad at crack climbing, and it is frustrating, since it should be easy. There is a crack. Get inside it. Don't fall off. Simple. Yet, every time I go west, I fumble, bumble, groan, layback and do just about everything wrong to get to the top of crack pitches.

So, what are the best cracks in New England? Obscure to the North End.

[strandman]

Most cracks in NE are foot intensive affairs IMO..Vultures, Airation etc..
Women in Love is really good ..Jack the Ripper...Slot..Piss Easy...Passing thoughts..Peanut gallery

and a real obscure one that i was involved in--Fear of Ejection at bartlett/Haystack..way out in the woods so no one can see, or hear you crying..5.11 stemming to 5" 

[MT]

At Cannon, Duet (5.7) and Duet Direct (5.10+), Slow and Easy (5., Sticky Fingers (5.10), Vertigo (5.9), etc. None are pure crack climbs, per se, but all offer an opportunity to practice the skills. Reppy's, but I think it's a bit overrated.

Go to the Daks and hit up Poko, Spider's Web, and Moss. Few crack climbs there too. I know, I know, upstate NY isn't NE, whatever. It's a relatively short drive and some of the best climbing in the area.

Good luck.

Mike 

[ralbert20]

Yup, keep em coming. "New England/ North East." was meant to include the Dacks. Reppy's is great - just painful on the feet... I did it in approach shoes last time - much nicer!

[eyebolter]

Farley upper tier has some of the best.   Bulletproof is a 5.13 offwidth, and just left is Barndoor, stiff 5.10a.   Further left is Yosemite Crack (8/9) up an obvious right-facing corner to anchors; or step left before the anchors angle up left (9) to the top of the Peapod Crack.  Other finishes are bolted: 11a straight up (classic with the trad corner), and Scared Straight (11/12) which climbs over a huge detached finger to height-dependant crux moves.  Peapod Crack is a great (10b). 

No guidebook but from the new parking area hike straight up past the sport wall to the upper tier.  Maybe not as good as Crack in the Woods and Duet Direct in NewHampshire, but on par with the other NH classics.
 

[old_school]

Not hijacking or anything but have you guys been on They Died Laughing lately?? Jeezuz...it felt like someone had slathered it in grease. I remember the feet getting a bit polished the last time I climbed it (which was probably 12 years ago), but ran a lap on it after doing Diedre last summer...and I couldn't believe how sketchy it felt. Maybe I just turned into a crack climbing puss???

[ralbert20]

You have to do "They Died" before everyone gets it all greasy with chalk. Early season, or right after a big rain is when it is best.

This qualifies as one of those climbs where you can cheat substantially - there are footholds all over the face, and even some holds if you don't feel like jamming... Add in the ledge rest, and it is not really a "true" crack like I am thinking.

[kenreville]

Take MT's advice and go to the Spider's Web in the ADK's. If you can get up everything that's there, consider yourself a damn fine crack climber.

[DLottmann]

...Reppy's is great - just painful on the feet... I did it in approach shoes last time - much nicer!

Truth! Approach shoes + Reppy’s = WIN. Will never lead or follow that pitch again in rock climbing shoes...

[eyebolter]

Take MT's advice and go to the Spider's Web in the ADK's. If you can get up everything that's there, consider yourself a damn fine crack climber.

Agreed.  It is the Waimea of the trad crack walls in the Northeast (sorry North Conway....).  Most of the grades are kind of sandbag, but Drop Fly or Die (11a) isn't that bad for the grade, and takes a classic line up the high part of the wall, with a Henry Barber FA for history.   

At Pokomoonshine, Gamesmanship at 5.8 is the crack Reppy's wishes it could be (in its' dreams).  My non-climbing girlfriend seconded Reppy's in the 80's with her feet on the slab the whole time because her feet hurt so badly in the crack.  Not my definition of a classic, though it does look good from the ground.

[M_Sprague]

I've got the same feeling about Reppies. Now if you could turn it up past vertical we would have something, but of course it would fall over on you. 

[Jeff]

There are cracks in Connecticut, and that IS in NE; Caveat--the grades are stiff-- check out Ragged, East Peak and other areas for test pieces and "sand bags"! Rock dries earlier than in NH (especially this year), there is virtually NO fixed pro and the bugs don't usually get TOO ferocious for too long.

[M_Sprague]

I never go there anymore, but I learned a lot climbing in CT in my early years, mostly following Whitey around. The jamming of flared cracks has stood me well for other places and I think I learned how to use little spoogie feet well there. Gear can be a little funky though. Traprock is the only place I have ever had gear pull and basically decked. That experience taught me to trust well placed wires a lot more than small cams.

[eyebolter]

Connecticut does have some great cracks.  Unconquerable Crack at 5.9 (+) is better than anything at the the North End (sorry again North Conway).   Subline, Carey Corner, Vector (probably the first 5.9 in the country despite being rated 5. are all great routes at Ragged.  Lots of other great cracks at the outlying crags as well.

Also don't overlook "Endeavor to Persevere" (10) in Great Barrington, probably the best crack in Mass despite my Farley preference.

[strandman]

Unc is good, but better than the Slot maybe