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objectivity to rate a route

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lucky luke:
As a beginners, most of us think about what means the rating systems. As we don't want to under estimated ourselves, if they told us that climbing 5.9 is a beginer level, I will try to climb 5.10. But it is true or right?

I am a 5.10 climber onsight after 25 years of climbing. Can I climbed 5.11 or 5.12...I still have to try it. When I won't have the ball to go over my stopper, I will do some sport to push myself. Actually, trad climbing is my major concern.

I analyze two rating systems used in north conway that you can found in Ed webster guide book and the recent guide book. I found that one is wrote for the elite and the other to the average climber. One is wrote if you are already good, and the other is wrote if you like to have a nice climbing day, like lake view at canon, or royal arches in yosemite.  Accessibility, it is all what the trad climber bolt, no reserve area...just enjoy a full day of climbing. You will find a discussion of it at: It is for people who want a deep understanding of the system to choose what they like.

The question is: which gradation system do you like to have as a climber? 

Only do new routes..then you can decide everything

I read these posts and just scream "WHY?!??!"

Here's a tip: 5.9 is 5.9, except when it isn't. Welcome to the northeast.

Not quite sure why this thread is in the Beginner's section.
To objectively give a route an approximately accurate grade takes quite a bit of experience and familiarity with the local grading "system".  A beginner will typically feel that a steeper 5.8 with obvious holds is easier than a 5.8 slab which requires balance and friction and less actual pulling.  Quite difficult to be objective then.

lucky luke:

--- Quote from: sneoh on March 26, 2014, 11:17:38 PM ---Not quite sure why this thread is in the Beginner's section.

--- End quote ---

The thread is in the beginer section because a beginer can choose between the yosemite decimal system (YDS) and the national classification climbing system (nccs).

If you read my blog ( you will have some starting point to see the differences and decides which one you like.

I will say, for you, that the you prefer the YDS


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