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Author Topic: Practice solo aid  (Read 450 times)

JoeC

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Practice solo aid
« on: March 30, 2014, 04:57:50 PM »

Looking for some places to practice some easy solo aid,  Just to work through all the techniques.  I am in MA, so the closer the better?  I was thinking crow would be okay as it is pretty close to me as well.  Any other ideas?
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lucky luke

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2014, 05:45:05 PM »

Looking for some places to practice some easy solo aid,  Just to work through all the techniques.  I am in MA, so the closer the better?  I was thinking crow would be okay as it is pretty close to me as well.  Any other ideas?

On top rope or bottom up?
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WharfRat

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2014, 05:57:59 PM »

Its a trap....
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2014, 06:14:54 PM »

not even sure how or why you would do it on top rope. tie your rope to a tree, stack it in a backpack, run it over your shoulder through the gri gri and have at it 8)
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DGoguen

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2014, 06:58:29 PM »

Hey Joe

If you've never done any aid climbing, you could start off hanging a static line and using a device of your choice to "top rope" while you see what its like to stand and move up in aiders on gear.
Not leading but getting comfortable in the position.

If you want to lead something Tradman has the dialed in system.

Either way, Jane @ Crow Hill (clean aid )is a good one and was my first self belayed aid lead. With clove hitches, pre device.
I think I may have done it as a grade IV. ;D
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 07:01:13 PM by DGoguen »
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JoeC

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2014, 07:15:08 PM »

Hey Joe

If you've never done any aid climbing, you could start off hanging a static line and using a device of your choice to "top rope" while you see what its like to stand and move up in aiders on gear.
Not leading but getting comfortable in the position.

If you want to lead something Tradman has the dialed in system.

Either way, Jane @ Crow Hill (clean aid )is a good one and was my first self belayed aid lead. With clove hitches, pre device.
I think I may have done it as a grade IV. ;D
I have in fact aided on toprope before as well as an easy solo aid.  On the solo aid I turned a 5 sec free solo to a hour aid and clean.  Just looking for pther options, longer really.  I was actually thinking about doing intertwine solo aid last thurs when I was out there for some easy soloing, but remembered the bolts being a bit further back from the edge than I would like.  I just did want to slip on the wetness and take a long solo whipper.  I think next time ill rap down and check it out first.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2014, 07:16:45 PM by JoeC »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2014, 07:31:40 PM »

I had never aid climbed untill I tried to do an FA that was too hard for me. I wanted to get to the top so I made makeshift aiders from slings and the result was Spiders From Mars 5.9A2+ the grade was given on 2nd ascent by a genuine Yosemite big wall drunk..  If the gear is good you will put so much of it in that nothing really bad can happen so why bother top ropeing. Just choose a climb with good gear and have at it..
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JoeC

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2014, 07:35:28 PM »

I had never aid climbed untill I tried to do an FA that was too hard for me. I wanted to get to the top so I made makeshift aiders from slings and the result was Spiders From Mars 5.9A2+ the grade was given on 2nd ascent by a genuine Yosemite big wall drunk..  If the gear is good you will put so much of it in that nothing really bad can happen so why bother top ropeing. Just choose a climb with good gear and have at it..
Thats what im planning on!
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strandman

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2014, 08:57:28 PM »

There's a2+ rattlesnake..
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JoeC

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2014, 09:08:28 PM »

There's a2+ rattlesnake..
What?  A2+ where now?
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SA

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #10 on: March 31, 2014, 06:57:36 AM »

Joe,

I did a lot of aid practice at Crow Hill alone. At that time, nobody was aid climbing in the NE, and I wanted to learn, so I struck out on my own. I did the 1st ascent of Jane aid-solo, in the Winter, as I remember.
Just take care, at the bottom, to prevent a ground fall. I've seen quite a few climbers solo the Mordor Wall. All that practice paid off big time when I first went to Yosemite, back in 1971.

My first big wall there, I did solo, since I couldn't find any partners. Nobody knew me, the weather stunk, and I was impatient to get on a wall. Have fun.

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strandman

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #11 on: March 31, 2014, 09:20:47 AM »

There's a2+ rattlesnake..
What?  A2+ where now?

If it's gone free, i think you would have heard about it..Steep with a hard start..that's as far as i got   I forget the name.. a bit left of center on the crag..a big prow next to the easy chimney line
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Bill

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #12 on: March 31, 2014, 09:36:41 AM »

Jane is good. However it is best done with Goguen heckling you from the peanut gallery.  Intertwine is a pain since it is relatively low angle.  Diagonal will give you practice cleaning a traverse which can be tricky. Make sure you have your system thoroughly thought through, especially backups, before attempting to clean the traverse.  Plus you can practice hooking on Diagonal as well with some relative security. 
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OldEric

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2014, 10:01:48 AM »

There's a2+ rattlesnake..
What?  A2+ where now?

If it's gone free, i think you would have heard about it..Steep with a hard start..that's as far as i got   I forget the name.. a bit left of center on the crag..a big prow next to the easy chimney line

Sounds like Penile Servitude.  I freed the top - probably 11- - 35 years ago by traversing in from the right.  My son freed the whole thing ~10 years ago.  All on TR.  It's probably leadable with PG/R style gear.
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strandman

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2014, 10:13:27 AM »

That's it.... 5.13 ?   TR now
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