Author Topic: Practice solo aid  (Read 664 times)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2014, 10:50:49 AM »
I had never aid climbed untill I tried to do an FA that was too hard for me. I wanted to get to the top so I made makeshift aiders from slings and the result was Spiders From Mars 5.9A2+ the grade was given on 2nd ascent by a genuine Yosemite big wall drunk..
Thats what im planning on!

Be aware that SA solo the prow in yosemite and felt 100 feet. He is probably still with us because before, we learned about fall impact on the rope, to make sounds anchor and take time to do it. Too much climbers died today because there ego is too big.

What do you want to work out, what is the results of aid climbing that you expect?

is it knowing how to place pro: top rope and place a first pro, a cam, load it , use an other kind of protection, tricam, load it, and use a third kind of protection at the same place...a stopper for example. Load it and climb on it. Look at it carefully to see how he moves and why you are not falling. The best pro will be those where you fall. You never know when a pro is good, but you know when one piece is not.

is it to know the technique or a variety of technique? take a course, read a lot and climb with other experiences climber.

is it...?

is it just to check a box, to told every body that you know how to aid climb...gave up! 


Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2014, 11:33:25 AM »
That sounds like a lot of judgement LL. Maybe he aspires to climb a big wall some day and knows he might encounter some Aid... Believe it or not, a lot of people aren't on this site to impress others. They just want to expand their skill set.
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline Jeff

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #17 on: March 31, 2014, 11:41:43 AM »
"Believe it or not, a lot of people aren't on this site to impress others. They just want to expand their skill set."

INDEED!! +++

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #18 on: March 31, 2014, 12:11:50 PM »
Jeff, did I impress you with my comment? .... Just want to make a personal note of it... Haha. Seriously though. I have recently started dabbling in Aid myself because I want to be able to venture toward some big wall stuff in my future. As far as the OP goes.... A lot of the cracks at the upper cliff at P-way can be done in C1 fashion....
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #19 on: March 31, 2014, 03:38:51 PM »
That sounds like a lot of judgement LL. Maybe he aspires to climb a big wall some day and knows he might encounter some Aid... Believe it or not, a lot of people aren't on this site to impress others. They just want to expand their skill set.

If you read what I wrote, I asked the reason why he want to do aid climbing. wanting to expand their skill set could enter in two categories: knowing how to place pro...and I gave example; wanting to do big wall with better technique...and I gave example.

is it for an other reason? I made an hypothesis after

There is no judgement in that. is it for one of these two option above that he ask the question? or is it for an other reason???

I climbed with a guy last year, He put his life in danger three time in less than 75 feet. oday, I am not sure that he realize what he did. It is the reason of my intervention. I will be glad if he can climb a big wall and come back safe by doing exercise to increase his knowledge.

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2014, 04:03:33 PM »
LL, my apologies. I misinterpreted what you were saying. When you broke it down like that it clicked.
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline strandman

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2014, 04:31:20 PM »
Sa fucked up..i'm sure he would agree....he was climbing up, working it out and ZING..he wasn't learning about  other than the next placement.

i hope I impress LL with my feats of way rad shit  ;D  'cause  i fuckin' care

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #22 on: March 31, 2014, 05:13:38 PM »
Hate to promote aid climbing at Rumney (other than hanging on every bolt) but Journey to a Mushroom Planet at Monsters from the Id is an awesome clean A1 out a severely overhanging crack with bomber gear placements, and only 40 feet off the ground at the top.  Arguably the best 13a at Rumney, seems impossible at first but there are plenty of tricks.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2014, 05:15:21 PM by eyebolter »

Offline JoeC

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #23 on: March 31, 2014, 05:16:07 PM »
Hate to promote aid climbing at Rumney (other than hanging on every bolt) but Journey to a Mushroom Planet at Monsters from the Id is an awesome clean A1 out a severely overhanging crack with bomber gear placements, and only 40 feet off the ground at the top.  Arguably the best 13a at Rumney, seems impossible at first but there are plenty of tricks.
Well, hell I might as well just try and free that one! :o

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #24 on: March 31, 2014, 05:28:03 PM »
Hate to promote aid climbing at Rumney (other than hanging on every bolt) but Journey to a Mushroom Planet at Monsters from the Id is an awesome clean A1 out a severely overhanging crack with bomber gear placements, and only 40 feet off the ground at the top.  Arguably the best 13a at Rumney, seems impossible at first but there are plenty of tricks.
Well, hell I might as well just try and free that one! :o

I'll give you a hint: kneeebar at the start, then when you get to the big roof do a double toe undercling out right.

All kidding aside, it is a far a better solo aid choice than anything at Crow Hill.

Offline strandman

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #25 on: March 31, 2014, 05:30:24 PM »
You could rebolt ladder Line at the Quarries..it was A1 until it was freed (on TR)  I redid it with 4 bolts and chopped.again..and again

Offline JoeC

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Re: Practice solo aid
« Reply #26 on: March 31, 2014, 05:38:54 PM »
You could rebolt ladder Line at the Quarries..it was A1 until it was freed (on TR)  I redid it with 4 bolts and chopped.again..and again
Ive always wanted to try that thing!