Author Topic: Things i have learned  (Read 1296 times)

Offline strandman

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #30 on: April 27, 2014, 11:50:34 AM »
Love it !! not a biner in sight

Offline JoeC

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #31 on: April 27, 2014, 12:32:36 PM »
I learned that Jane isnt really all that hard.  I cleaned it.  Now I just need to lead it

Offline SA

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #32 on: April 27, 2014, 03:15:47 PM »
JoeC,

Funny how you can learn all the moves, over time, getting them wired, and make even 11's look easy. I'm looking forward to getting on that again, after a few years away, and see if I still remember all the moves.
I once saw a guy lead Jane, onsight, and at the crux layback, he jambed it straight in. He was the grandson of Hasler Whitney,
(Whitney/Gilman route). I was pretty amazed.

On another occasion, I watched a pretty strong climber rip all his gear out, except one piece. He stopped head first, 1 foot from the ground. Jane can be tricky putting gear in. Take care leading it.

Offline strandman

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #33 on: April 27, 2014, 03:43:25 PM »
Watching Coach Niland solo Jane made things much better for me.. every move dialed 100%

Offline sneoh

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #34 on: April 27, 2014, 05:26:22 PM »
SteveA, that guy would be James, someone I know from NZ.  He is more into auto racing (hill climbs mostly) now than climbing.
Not to give everything away, I do throw a jam on Jane.  It is so much easier than Cro Magnon in my book which is always a walk in the park for Steve.   Old Eric is the master of Jane; exact gear, exact placement, exact moves everytime.  It is almost like cheating that's what I tell him :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline JoeC

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #35 on: April 27, 2014, 07:06:00 PM »
That was my first time on it.  I only fell off twice before I knew the moves.  Then cruised it.

Offline strandman

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #36 on: May 03, 2014, 06:56:05 PM »
A couple days ago l earned that 5.11 desert wide is still really hard

Offline DaveR

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #37 on: May 04, 2014, 09:29:04 AM »
A couple days ago l earned that 5.11 desert wide is still really hard

Where were you John? 2 places that redefine grades IMO. Indian Creek and Vedauwoo, they are 2 of the hardest places I have ever climbed. I have been on 5.9's at Vedauwoo that had me terrified and crying! Grade has little to do with scare factor there.

Offline strandman

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #38 on: May 04, 2014, 11:46:19 AM »
South of IC, near Bluff..its  wide that i found many years ago and never did. i don't think its been done because there is still no anchor on top
At this point i will never get it,  but its still fun to flail and fail.....5 minutes in.

Veedawoo is for sure a hallmark of grading in my book..i met the local years ago and proceeded to beat me up many times.. learned a ton though and even did a 11+ wide ..once  :)

Offline sneoh

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #39 on: May 04, 2014, 07:16:15 PM »
Bob Scarpelli? He is amazing.  Must be pushing 60 in age by now.  Still sending whipper snappers packing.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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Re: Things i have learned
« Reply #40 on: May 04, 2014, 07:26:44 PM »
63... a beast .. 5.12 wide in '83..not to shabby..the Suat just got onsighted 2 years ago  ..that's the mark of a testpiece in my book