Author Topic: Therapy tic list for Luke  (Read 1206 times)

Offline kenreville

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #15 on: April 29, 2014, 09:48:15 PM »
My faux pax Nick. I threw out a few routes that are just plain good for the soul. Memory climbs.

On the bolted front, DMan mentions No Pigs at the Echo Crag. I was the first to lower off that climb, spot the placements, drill and install the bolts before JC made the groundup onsite FA.

It sounds easy but in reality was a shitload of effort Luke.

I challenge you to get on it.






Offline OldEric

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #16 on: April 29, 2014, 10:24:11 PM »
faux pax

That would be "faux pas" - see what happens when you try ant write in a foreign language?

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2014, 10:30:16 PM »
Yes ken those are Great climbs! The only way however that luke can regain his sanity is going to come through embraceing and feeling the love for bolts. The last Unicorn is an excelent place to start 8)

Offline kenreville

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #18 on: April 29, 2014, 10:45:44 PM »
If Luke does get up on Last Unicorn- hope he appreciates the bolts.

The original 1/4" spinners were replaced by the now 3/8 thunderstuds by me and Uwe S.

After you get off the climb LL, tell me that it doesn't mattter.

Oh, and BTW, it took two full days of effort to pull it off.

Offline kenreville

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #19 on: April 29, 2014, 10:48:18 PM »
faux pax

That would be "faux pas" - see what happens when you try ant write in a foreign language?

Stand corrected sir!  ;D

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #20 on: April 30, 2014, 06:28:27 PM »
Luke. I am not suggesting that you climb hard or over your head. I am simply suggesting a bunch of wonderfull amazeing climbs that might help you  appreciate bolts/ almost all of the climbs I listed are g rated. I would give P1 and P3 of lost Soles an R rateing but it is an amazeing climb. not sure about Childrens crusade as i have never led it I was scared enough following ;) Seriously. My list is mostly just really fun pleasure climbing. Only 2 climbs on my list are sport the rest are mixed. 

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #21 on: May 02, 2014, 12:27:58 PM »
I am simply suggesting a bunch of wonderfull amazeing climbs that might help you  appreciate bolts/

This is stupid. I used piton before you begin to climb and they were place at good distance, call convenient.

You suggest route where people will be scare and won't be able to climb on pro after. So, to be "in the gang" they will try to kill themselves or scare as shit and be ready to pay for bolt or gym. The bottom line: money. The sport: climbing hard movement in sport, climbing hard commitment route in trad.

Although some that you list are really well protect, like fastest gun at poko.

 
 

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #22 on: May 02, 2014, 01:47:36 PM »
I used pitons before most people I know, and I was just ill-equipped and uninformed. ;)
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #23 on: May 02, 2014, 03:06:48 PM »
 Luke, get a grip. I am not a sandbagger. I go out of my way to give folks the best beta possibly and will NEVER sandbag a protection rateing. The list i give you here are mostly G rated or PG rated. The R or X rateings are all well below the grade of the climb.  these are all great climbs that will help you deal with your psycosos regarding bolts ;) You will also have a blast climbing this stuff!  The VT climbs are in Tough Shist with the exception of Isabella on Bird Mtn. I can get you the topo for that but will have to wait for after mid july(birds)
 NH
Lost Soles 10a PG13
Last Unicorn 10b
Lady Slipper9+
Total Recall 11b
The Prow 11d or 5.9 A1
Rt66 to Sceanic Loop 11b or 5.10 AO
Salt Packed Pig sack 5.8
Accross the Universe 5.9 A0 or whatever you call that one move on the start of P2 (it sure as shit ain't 10a!)
Underdog  10a ;D
Armed and Dangerous ;D

VT

Celibacy 9+
Full Monty 10a
Isabella 10a 5.6r/x
VJs direct to the Great Corner 11a
Wine and Cheese 11a
Buzz Kill  11b


Daks
Overture 5.8
The Matrix 5.8+
Screaming Meanie  5.8  5.5X I love the 90ft Runout on P3
Slip Tease Skid row 9+

Red Rocks NV
Dream Of Wild Turkeys 10a
The Gobbler 10b
Prince of darkness 10c

This photo is what the 5.6x looks like on Isabella. Just poor rock quality right off the belay. its not worth putting gear in just climb through to a ledge and a good bolt.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #24 on: May 02, 2014, 04:33:29 PM »
This photo is what the 5.6x looks like on Isabella. Just poor rock quality right off the belay.
its not worth putting gear in just climb through to a ledge and a good bolt.
You gonna die!  Potential FF2 so rope might break, anchors might pull, belayer might lose control of the rope, the sky might fall down. :)
Or just be careful and have fun.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline Broken_Spectre

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #25 on: May 02, 2014, 04:38:51 PM »
Vermont Specific:
In Smuggs:
Airavata on the Elephant's Head
Yggdrasil P3 - Ragnarok arete - AKA ragnarete
Deep End - Easy Gully Buttress
Bloodthirsty Herbivore - Easy Gully

Bolton VT:
The Onceler - Upper West
Year of the Dog - 82 crag
Family Picnic - Bone Mountain

Marshfield :
Boneless Chicken
Black Streak to Falcon's Fury


Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #26 on: May 02, 2014, 05:42:31 PM »
Keep  em comming. the only criteria is that it be a great rout , reasonably protected that would not exist without bolts 8)

The anchor will not fail (2 bomber bolts) on Isabella if you decided to pitch on the unprotected 5.6 but you will die of fright if you take a 30 footer off the edge of that roof. Hard to tell from the photo but the belay is just above a roof. seems like a wicked exposed bit of climbing to me. Could not find any rock solid enough for a bolt above the belay. I suppose you could do a glue in but it is a bit of a back country climb and the moves are easy. Just climb carefully and don't fall for 15ft and you are all set.

Offline kenreville

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #27 on: May 02, 2014, 08:05:46 PM »
For a well protected struggle, Roaches on the Wall, on the Pitchoff Chimney cliff in the ADK. As a matter of fact, LL could spend a few weeks on that crag alone and not get bored. Bolts ONLY where you're damn glad to get to and clip. The rest is as trad as it comes.

How about it champ? You ever been there?

Offline strandman

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #28 on: May 02, 2014, 08:11:18 PM »
I used pitons before most people I know, and I was just ill-equipped and uninformed. ;)


I love good pitons.. so now it's about fear and money ??? i'm so confused

Offline sneoh

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Re: Therapy tic list for Luke
« Reply #29 on: May 04, 2014, 11:06:34 PM »
For the lack of a better place to post an honest question to LL.
Do you, LL, consider working a route (trad and/or fixed gear protected) equall to "sport ethics or mentality"?
It seems to me your writing of late implies that it is not "real" trad to work a route before a clean ascent from the ground. 
If you do, then you set an incredibly high bar.  Many significant free ascents of recent memory, perhaps beginning with the remarkable freeing of The Nose by Lynn Hill, involved "working" the crux pitch(es) before the clean FFA from the ground.  She climbed big walls, hard trad, sport climbs, boulders, competed on plastic. Do you call her a trad climber, a sport climber, or just a darn amazing climber?

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ