Author Topic: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge  (Read 4928 times)

sneoh

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #15 on: June 10, 2014, 02:30:08 PM »
I packed up and headed out.
I've done that.  I don't need to get wrapped up in another rescue.

The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end. Sure hope the climber recovers quickly. I hate hearing stories like this  :(
+1.  Makes me a little sad and upset at the same time.
Years ago, during my first Gunks .10 lead, I got so excited that I climbed the last 25 feet of 5.5 or so with no gear, leaving the last piece as the one which protected the cruxy roof, before the traversing easy finish.  Boy, did I get an earful from my second, Ajax, when he arrived at the belay.  He had to take my last piece out, do the crux roof move while staring at a long traverse after it with no gear.  Lesson learnt!  Still a great moment for me tho  :)

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #16 on: June 10, 2014, 03:48:03 PM »
I had a beginner up in that area a few years back and watched a guy with his girlfriend climb Whimpy Gilman. He was showing off a  bit and skipped a few bolts on the traverse (snickering that they were too close together) not thinking about his second following the route. She fell at mid height and fortunately was close enough to the bolt keeping her off the deck but not by much. They both laughed and I packed up and headed out. I am with Strandman. The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end. Sure hope the climber recovers quickly. I hate hearing stories like this  :(

"Be sure to clip all the bolts for an inexperienced second, as it trends to the left."

You can write it in the guidebook, but will they read it?

strandman

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #17 on: June 10, 2014, 05:45:55 PM »
Nope... especially if they won't to "onsite" ???

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #18 on: June 10, 2014, 05:48:18 PM »
I copied that quote into the MP description, Ward. Hope you don't mind. Hopefully a few more people will read it.

Apparently a compound fracture of a leg was involved, so the air lift makes more sense. No more details yet.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

strandman

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #19 on: June 10, 2014, 05:58:52 PM »
Just for the info..did that rescue bill ever become law in NH ??? I hope never to get hit with another med flight bill.

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #20 on: June 10, 2014, 06:43:23 PM »
I hope nobody calls 911. If I am ever hurt. Just do what you can, put a stick in my mouth and drag me out or if I am really bad, haul me back up and throw me off again.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2014, 06:48:27 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

sneoh

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #21 on: June 10, 2014, 08:02:10 PM »
Compound?  That's got to HURT.  OUCH!!
Good thing it was not a very long carry-out from Wimpy Gilman.

strandman

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #22 on: June 10, 2014, 09:07:30 PM »
I hope nobody calls 911. If I am ever hurt. Just do what you can, put a stick in my mouth and drag me out or if I am really bad, haul me back up and throw me off again.

just for you Mark, i would place a #3.5 ,rigid friend in your mouth, let it expand and drag you out 8) OR if you were really fucked, several DEEP drill holes in the forehead

your welcome

Offline old_school

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #23 on: June 11, 2014, 07:26:35 AM »

"Be sure to clip all the bolts for an inexperienced second, as it trends to the left."

You can write it in the guidebook, but will they read it?

I know Ward   :-[
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #24 on: June 11, 2014, 08:34:00 AM »
I am with Strandman. The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end.

Just for to talk and see more option, as the safety of the second is link to the safety of the leader, I can agree with Strandman.

As me, i can't resist to jump in the discussion.

I always said to my beginner, with who I climbed in remote area, that as a second he most be think at his own safety at 100%. That means to place himself in a position where he won't received any thing as he was at the anchor, to look if his leader place pro to protect him in a fall, to feed the rope so his leader will do a better job, to be ready to take a leader fall without getting in danger, to be able to think as he climb (take experience), to anchor himself to the anchor, to gave the equipment properly to the leader (which is easier when the climber his relax),

I told them that they most insure his safety at 100% and the leader most assume is sagfety as 100%: so the team is safe at 100%.

If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%.

As a leader, bringing a new climber, I will climb on route that I know to see if I have a good second. And if I have a good second and he want to lead... I will help him to do aid climbing to place and load as many as 200 nuts and cam before leading trad, bring him over his helmet to know his limits safely, etc...to have a good second.

in that scenario, this leave very few places for a second to "check" if his leader don't do mistake??? so, open to friendly discussion i hope.   

DLottmann

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #25 on: June 11, 2014, 05:08:04 PM »
If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%.

This is why we can't discuss things seriously with you LL. NO ONE (besides you) thinks like this...

Offline pappy

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #26 on: June 11, 2014, 06:35:16 PM »
I hope nobody calls 911. If I am ever hurt. Just do what you can, put a stick in my mouth and drag me out or if I am really bad, haul me back up and throw me off again.

The understanding we always had down South was that if you f^^k up, did something stupid, and suffer the consequences (I've done a stunning number of stupid without suffering the consequences, which only indicates I am a higher life form ::)...), then we hit you in the head with a rock and split your gear. Fortunately, the only time I've actually been in this situation was at Poke-O with my leg doing a 45 degree thing. After we got things settled down the doc who happened to be climbing there said, 'We could call an ambulance...' which was ridiculous, and then my partner showed back up with half of a dog crate he scavenged at the trailer below, shoved me in it, and slid me out. Perfect. Especially the symbolism.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #27 on: June 12, 2014, 06:21:30 AM »
If yer gonna get hurt Poco is certainly one of the easier places to do a carry out.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #28 on: June 12, 2014, 08:11:10 AM »
If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%.

This is why we can't discuss things seriously with you LL. NO ONE (besides you) thinks like this...

You did the army? you should know that every one most do his job so the team is more effective. In rescue it is the same. It is when some one try to do the job of some one else that the think go wrong.

DLottmann

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #29 on: June 12, 2014, 08:30:28 AM »
It is when some one try to do the job of some one else that the think go wrong.

That makes sense, and is easy to understand your point. I don't see how anyone would have seen this as your point from:

"If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%."