Author Topic: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge  (Read 4941 times)

Offline M_Sprague

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Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« on: June 09, 2014, 11:18:01 AM »
There were rescue personnel at Rumney this past Sunday for a couple hours and a LifeLift helicopter landed in the Camera's field to take the patient to Hancock Hospital. From second hand reports, somebody was lowering and cleaning The Wimpy Gilman Ridge ( a bolted 5.3 sport climb that looks like a mini Whitney Gilman) and then let go and pendulumed into the rocky ground. Apparently she suffered a broken ankle and possible broken ribs. Hopefully the ankle was not busted up too badly and she will recover quickly.

Lessons to learn: Be aware of basic physics.  When lowering to clean an overhanging or angling route, stay clipped into the belayer's side of the rope with a draw (two or lockers would be safer) and don't unclip the lowest bolt. Lower to the ground still clipped to the rope and clean the last bolt from the ground. Be aware of the extra length of rope needed. Better yet, have somebody clean the draws while seconding. If the second doesn't want to or can't go all the way to the top, it may be possible for the leader to clean the upper draws on the way down for them, but only clean down as far as it would be fine for the second to swing from. The second would only have to clean to the point where it is safe to swing.

Be a good belayer. The belayer should never have let the climber make this basic mistake. It is part of your job to watch out for your partner. If you are bringing a beginner out, make sure they understand the ramifications of cleaning an angling route and how to do so safely.

Thirdly, have heath and or climbing accident insurance. Call in the rescue people and a relatively miner accident can quickly turn into a major incident that will put you in the poorhouse.

If anyone has more details or corrections, please post up.

On a related note, it was the first hot weekend at Rumney this year and it was crowded, with tempers on edge and people distracted. If you are going to climb in this situation it is important to remember to give everybody a break and be mellow with each other, not get in fist fights over parking or make unnecessary noise. The noise is not only unpleasant to others, but it is dangerous. I wanted to take a crossbow to a few people this weekend (quieter than a machine gun).
« Last Edit: June 09, 2014, 11:30:02 AM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
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The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

DLottmann

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #1 on: June 09, 2014, 11:32:41 AM »
Thanks for posting.

Hoping for speedy recovery but airlifted for a "broken ankle and possible broken ribs"? Any first responders there think there were more serious injuries?

And since it's been a hot topic; helmet?

Max Forbes

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #2 on: June 09, 2014, 01:12:44 PM »
There must have been more going on if rescue personal decided that she needed to be airlifted. I am curious to hear more. Hopefully everyone remembers to use caution in an area that careful practice is often forgotten because of its popularity.

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2014, 01:41:46 PM »
There is a report on MP that she may have been on Constipation Prize, a 5.8 in back of the gully, missed a clip and fallen on to the rock below. Again, third hand info from a person involved in the rescue via somebody climbing around the corner.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline markvnh

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2014, 02:05:16 PM »
I can't imagine why someone wouldn't second Wimpy Gilman and clean it. With that said if it was Constipation Prize I can understand the potential long fall. I climbed it via the "right hand variation" as opposed to staying on the arete and could not make the last clip and wound up running it out to the anchors. I think it would be a nasty fall if you fell from that area before actually clipping the anchors.

Hopefully the climber isn't too badly hurt and gets better soon!

As an aside about parking - everyone knows how crowded it gets and how hard it is to park some days. It frustrates me when I see three or four cars show up each with a person in them meeting at the parking lot instead of meeting and parking behind the historical society / church and bringing one car to the crag. Inconsiderate or ignorant - maybe both.
« Last Edit: June 09, 2014, 02:29:36 PM by markvnh »

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2014, 02:07:27 PM »
There is a report on MP that she may have been on Constipation Prize, a 5.8 in back of the gully, missed a clip and fallen on to the rock below. Again, third hand info from a person involved in the rescue via somebody climbing around the corner.

OUCH. Both of those situations have some serious injury potential. Here's hoping for speedy recovery.

The Little Cannon area in particular is a tricky, accident prone spot. I go there with kids and beginners all the time, and it's important to keep alert. On one hand, the gulley does make it easy to keep track of your whole party. On the other hand, you have a sketchy fall out the bottom of the gulley, and keeping eyes on two sides of the gulley at once be prove a challenge.

Good analysis, Mark! Be safe!

As an aside about parking - everyone knows how crowded it gets and how hard it is to park some days. It frustrates me when I see three or four cars show up each with a person in them meeting at the parking lot instead of meeting and parking behind the historical society / church and bringing one car to the crag. Inconsiderate or ignorant - maybe both.

Probably both, but I think it's mostly ignorance. I'm not sure people know to do it. As for those of us who do know better: I know I'm guilty of not carpooling on some days. And really, I should be walking there. :) Thanks for the reminder.
« Last Edit: June 09, 2014, 02:11:14 PM by Pete Jackson »
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2014, 02:44:03 PM »
I for one am guilty of the single person in a car taking a spot and feel guilty about it, but I usually have my trunk stuffed with gear for cleaning and bolting and have to run back to my car often for it.

The usual overflow parking in the field across the street has been closed lately (the owner has been sick sadly, I believe) so the parking problem is more acute.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline markvnh

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2014, 04:27:42 PM »
...I think you're excused from the "one person in the car rule" Mark!

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2014, 04:38:30 PM »
Plus my mother said I was special anyway :P
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

strandman

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2014, 05:57:14 PM »
it is SUPER important for the belayer to pay attention all the time..its a pretty basic thing..or so i thought.

Offline David_G48

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #10 on: June 09, 2014, 07:16:23 PM »
       " it is SUPER important for the belayer to pay attention all the time..its a pretty basic thing..or so i thought."

   John
 I think your assuming they were not paying attention which might not be the case. The belayer may have closely watched the whole event unravel. Paying attention and understanding what to do (IMO) are 2 different things. The belayer and the climber were not able to foresee the repercussions of their actions from what I read into it. Again, just my opinion and we know how much opinions really count.
David

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #11 on: June 09, 2014, 10:44:51 PM »
No actual first hand report yet. We can't really gain much by speculating besides reminding each other to be careful.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

sneoh

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #12 on: June 09, 2014, 11:27:40 PM »
Best wishes to the injured for a quick and full recovery.

A few years, the Parking Lot Wall land slide incident, did that also resulted in a med flight?
I should remember as I was climbing at The Meadows that morning.

Either way, not too bad of a carry out from Parking Lot Wall or Wimpy Gilman.  A carry down from Jimmy or any of the Northwest crags would be epic.

strandman

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #13 on: June 10, 2014, 10:52:53 AM »
I was going with marks comment about be a good belayer..the belayer is in charge, especially when lowering some one, communication is always essential.

Offline old_school

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Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
« Reply #14 on: June 10, 2014, 11:33:47 AM »
I had a beginner up in that area a few years back and watched a guy with his girlfriend climb Whimpy Gilman. He was showing off a  bit and skipped a few bolts on the traverse (snickering that they were too close together) not thinking about his second following the route. She fell at mid height and fortunately was close enough to the bolt keeping her off the deck but not by much. They both laughed and I packed up and headed out. I am with Strandman. The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end. Sure hope the climber recovers quickly. I hate hearing stories like this  :(
« Last Edit: June 10, 2014, 11:36:14 AM by old_school »
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