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Author Topic: Cascades climb late July  (Read 305 times)

Nico

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Cascades climb late July
« on: June 16, 2014, 04:19:19 PM »

I'll be on Mt. Buckner (9,000) in late July. It's a glacier approach and then steep snow, rock.  For footwear, the company states:

"Mountaineering specific leather boots are the preferred choices for ascents in the North Cascades. Because of the amount of good rock climbing found on the West Ridge route, some climbers also bring a pair of rock shoes with them. A good compromise to carrying two sets of foot wear is one of the lightweight mountaineering boots made today designed for both rock and ice. These boots are sturdy enough for kicking steps and holding a crampon while also having sticky rubber and a good feel for the rock. Lightweight hiking boots are not acceptable as they don't work well with crampons, or in very cold or wet weather."

"The 10 to 12 point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical ice climbing are not recommended."

My winter boots are La Sportiva Baruntses, which are heavy and big, and my crampons are either some 1990 BDs (good on glaciers) or Grivels for technical ice. Any suggestions? I'd love not to have to spend a lot of money on new gear. Mt feet are 9 1/2.

strandman

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2014, 06:42:33 PM »

pair of nikes and some yakTrax..but what do i know. The NW has got to be the most whacked out,gear intensive group in the USA..prolly those idiots who write freedom of the hills.
 I bet almost any decent combo of boots/pons will  be fine..i put BD pons on my Teva hiking boots all the time.
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DLottmann

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2014, 09:40:13 PM »

I would go with something like this

http://m.ems.com/products/3659867

1lb 9 pounces lighter than your baruntses...
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neiceclimber

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2014, 07:20:22 AM »

Get in touch with the rental dept at REI Seattle or one of the many guide companies.  They might rent lighter weight summer mountaineering boots.

I wouldn't necessarily do this but, you could make use of REI's return policy and buy the boot you need and then return it when done, but blisters may be the ethical karma you receive.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2014, 07:27:56 AM by neiceclimber »
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DLottmann

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2014, 10:39:01 AM »

...
I wouldn't necessarily do this but, you could make use of REI's return policy and buy the boot you need and then return it when done, but blisters may be the ethical karma you receive.

Ya that's pretty shitty karma wise... and one of the things that drives up retail costs. REI stated Return Policy Abuse is why they switched from a lifetime guarantee to 1 year... even with a receipt.
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steve weitzler

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2014, 01:17:53 PM »

I agree DMAN. Using gear for a trip then returning it is just dishonest. It has nothing to do with a liberal return policy. It has more to do with the ethical/unethical attitude of the individual!!! >:( When I owned the BRG we had a retail store as well. Often times people who were going out to climb for the weekend (for the first time with a friend usually) would "buy" shoes only to return them after climbing wanting a refund. I eventually had to set the policy that shoes could not be returned if obviously used. "You buy it, you use it, you own it!
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neiceclimber

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2014, 02:44:32 PM »

Hey, I was just throwing it out there, it's up to the store to decide what is legitimate or not.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2014, 02:58:25 PM by neiceclimber »
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DLottmann

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2014, 03:47:05 PM »

Hey, I was just throwing it out there, it's up to the store to decide what is legitimate or not.

I know. But anyone who has ever held a job in legitimate retail has dealt with Return Policy Abuse... we are a society of "I want it cheaper and to last forever" consumers... which harms actually standing behind a product that failed during normal usage and within normal life...
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carpenters climber

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2014, 04:48:53 PM »

I climbed Buckner and Sahale last July. I used my Nepal Evos, and my buddy used the red Trangos. No problems for either one of us.
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Nico

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #9 on: June 19, 2014, 09:16:08 AM »

Thanks, guys. I'll send a trip report.

DaveR

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #10 on: June 19, 2014, 03:16:09 PM »

I agree DMAN. Using gear for a trip then returning it is just dishonest. It has nothing to do with a liberal return policy. It has more to do with the ethical/unethical attitude of the individual!!! >:( When I owned the BRG we had a retail store as well. Often times people who were going out to climb for the weekend (for the first time with a friend usually) would "buy" shoes only to return them after climbing wanting a refund. I eventually had to set the policy that shoes could not be returned if obviously used. "You buy it, you use it, you own it!

I worked for Steve in the store and the other thing that sucked is people would buy shoes on the net and when they got them and they didn't fit they wanted us to swap them for the right size. WTF, sorry! People go out of their way to take advantage of good return policies and those costs are passed on.
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lukeweiss

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2014, 10:00:07 PM »

I did Sahale in Nepals also, as well as Shuksan a few years back, they were excellent, totally up to the task on class 4-low5 rock, surprisingly hold really well on tiny footholds. 
I would recommend the BD crampons, not the technical pair, I did Sahale in CAMP XLC nanotech's.
The Buruntse's are a bit heavy though - I like the trango suggestion, or the Batura 2.0's - super light and supposedly climb really well.
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bonathanjarrett

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2014, 11:51:22 PM »

As a New Englander transplanted to the NW, I have a couple observations for you. First it seems that you are conflating Buckner and Forbidden.  These are two different objectives. In late July Buckner lacks any real rock climbing per se. The west ridge of Forbidden is approached via steep snow/glacier followed by almost all 4th class rock.  There is some low 5th, but it is not long or hard.  The question is really about temperature and comfort on the approach.  Most folks climbing those kinds of routes in July are using a boot like the Scarpa Charmoz or similar La Sportiva boot.  As for crampons, any basic glacier crampons will do.  The biggest thing to keep in mind is that Cascade approaches are long, relatively speaking, and in the case of those two climbs steep trail as well.  Daytime temps will often be in the high seventies. Your Baruntses are way overkill.  It sounds like you have a guide. I would run your options by them. Based on the quote you pulled from the website I am guessing you are going with RMI. Their affiliate, Whittaker Mountaineering, rents boots.  They will rent Nepal Evos for $62.  This may be the better choice.  I hope you have a good time.  The Cascades are a magical place.

Jonathan
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TC

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Re: Cascades climb late July
« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2014, 09:54:22 AM »

Jonathan's advice is spot on.  If you are climbing the West Ridge, you're probably on Forbidden.  The North Face is the classic route on Buckner.  I've done a variety of routes in that area and Nepals worked fine, although even those are a little overkill for late July.  If I had my silver Trangos at the time I would have used them.  Your BD crampons are fine for the West Ridge, just make sure they'll fit whatever boot you bring (and hopefully you have enough integrity to not "rent" boots from REI as discussed above).  Don't bother bringing rock shoes for the ridge itself.

Boston Basin is beautiful, the crapper at high camp offers the best view while dropping a deuce anywhere.   

Tom
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