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Author Topic: Crampons  (Read 195 times)

cklein

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Crampons
« on: July 28, 2004, 08:24:20 AM »

I know it's a bit early but nevertheless,  I'm thinking about getting monopoint crampons.  Can somebody explain the pros and cons?  I plan on using them on steep ice and mixed climbing.    
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Admin Al

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2004, 09:01:19 AM »

IMNSHO if you're going to be climbing mixed stuff, it's a no-brainer. monopoint crampons allow you to climb just like you climb rock. in fact in some ways better 'cause your point doesn't get tired like your toes sometimes can. for me using m/p on vertical ice allows me to climb the steep stuff using the same techniques I use on rock & mixed. I can twist & turn my toes & the like without loosing purchase.

when I got my first m/p crampons, a pair of Moser Grade 8's, my climbing jumped up a grade. your milage may vary. <grin> the only time I use dual points any more is in the mountains. currently I am using the Moser M10's from 2 years back, but they are a bit heavy. I understand that the new ones are lighter. I also like the Trango Hyper Harpoon. their price is definitely right. I got a chance to try the Petzl Dart's last winter & I thought that they climbed OK. the latest versions are easier to fit & get on & off. you can't replace any parts tho, just by new ones when they wear out.

many of the new crampons also allow you to set them up as dual or mono point so you can have your cake & eat it... in addition some let you position the mono point left-to-right if you like.

HTH

Al
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Al Hospers
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Schandy

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2004, 11:48:08 AM »

I also use the CM M-10's that I have set up as mono's.  I find that with a mono point centered below my big toe I get a lot better 'feel'.  As Al said, it is a lot more like climbing rock.  I also find the monos shatter less ice and are easier to drive to the hilt because they have half the profile as duals.  As good as mono's are I still think the most important points are the secondary points, which can really make a huge difference.  I think older BD bionics had secondary point issues, and were thus unstable?  never used them.  Get a pair that can do both dual and mono with agressive secondary points and you will be all set.  

Andy
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DLottmann

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2004, 07:46:18 PM »

I'll second Andy's advice.  I too have M10's set up for off-set mono and I love them.  Ice climbing is about conserving energy, and I usually only have to kick once in good ice with mono's to get a good placement; pick placements also become "footholds" with monos.  Plus, if you are heading for a alpine snow climb the M10's come as dual-point crampons.  To me it was just an extra mono-point when one wore out... nice perk...
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Schandy

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2004, 07:29:47 AM »

Spme of the negatives of the M-10's is that they ball up like non other and they aren't exactly light.  As Dman pointed out if you use them mono you get an extra replacement point.  This is nice because those CM bastards gouge you around $80 for a pair of replacement points.  Bastards. >:(
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cowboy

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2004, 11:30:16 AM »

hey guys, I only get to ice climb a couple of times per season because of my location.  I climb in Bionics and have them set to dual points.  Should I consider switching them to monos or will this make no real difference because of how seldom I ice climb.  I'm only leading WI3, following WI4, and toproping WI5.

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Admin Al

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2004, 01:05:49 PM »

I have the anti-bot plates on my M10's and that helps a lot. frankly I would suggest getting them for any crampon you have.

Cowboy - I would set them up for monopoint action even tho you don't climb all that often. I think that it will make a noticable difference in your climbing, regardless.

Al
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Schandy

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2004, 02:12:08 PM »

On a related note- has anyone seen the new grivel screws?  two new screw designs this year?  They look sweet, god knows how much they will cost.  The new competition 'monster' ice tool looks pretty cool.  Bargain price too.  All I really want is a 3rd generation clippy ice tool leash.  Guess that's not too fashionable these days.

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ralbert20

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2004, 03:37:36 PM »

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Schandy

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Re: Crampons
« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2004, 07:11:57 AM »

The american site is silly.  
www.grivel.com
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