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Author Topic: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?  (Read 492 times)

lucky luke

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I learned by doing aid climbing. I used to top rope a difficult A-1 and to choose a spot for my protection, use the best nuts or cam, remove it, place and other test it and remove it, and try a third one which is going to be the one I will climb on for the next step. As I load my protection, I look carefully how it work. A number of those pop out, but I saw how they rotate and, by learning that, I knew which one is bad, which one is going to fail. So, I know what is a bad placement.

As I do that exercise, I learned to place protection at many places and in many position. when I climb, i didn't see a single crack where I can protect myself, but numbers of good and bad placement and I have to choose between them.

I saw some people, sport mostly, who learned what is a good placement. The nut most be as solid as a bolt. when they look the rock, they saw few placement, which are obvious for the best placement. Often those placement are not even secure.

So, how do you learned and work out to be good at protecting a pitch and are you using all good nuts placement or are you avoiding the less good nuts placement?   

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xcrag_corex

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2014, 11:30:14 AM »

Luke, it doesn't matter if the placement is good or bad. It's important that they are Deez. I've been making sure the placements are Deez for many years. I feel as though with some practice you will be able to find a location for Placement of Deez as well. I hope this helps.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2014, 02:12:22 PM by xcrag_corex »
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Old Mans Ghost

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2014, 03:05:23 PM »

When I was younger, I placed my nuts as frequently as possible with little regard for quality. Now I tend to think a little more, for like 2 seconds at least.
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ed_esmond

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2014, 09:34:12 PM »

"deez nuts??"

as in "Neil and Bob??"

"dr" ed e
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pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Nemesis

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DGoguen

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Re: Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2014, 10:26:02 PM »

I learned by doing aid climbing. I used to top rope a difficult A-1
It's C -1 if you're using nuts.
Clean. As in,
wait for it ?
"Clean deez nuts"

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xcrag_corex

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2014, 10:36:25 PM »

BINGO! ;)
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-Jeremy Ballou

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kenreville

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2014, 07:49:38 AM »

Don't you ever grow tired of being the laughing stock around here LL?
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DLottmann

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2014, 08:28:31 AM »

Don't you ever grow tired of being the laughing stock around here LL?

I imagine not, as he envisions hundreds of new climbers reading his posts and going "ah ha, I have learned something today"...
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lucky luke

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2014, 10:08:45 AM »

Don't you ever grow tired of being the laughing stock around here LL?

22 years old guy...unexpectedly felt...four trad pieces,but the two top pulled out.. accidents in north american mountaineering; just open few pages and look the word protection in the title

I just hope that you will remember your participation at those kind of accident, you influence those kid to have accident

told those parents: he didn't learned to place pro because he was afraid that the other climber will laught at him if he workout some technique.
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Pete Jackson

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2014, 01:40:57 PM »

I just hope that you will remember your participation at those kind of accident, you influence those kid to have accident

told those parents: he didn't learned to place pro because he was afraid that the other climber will laught at him if he workout some technique.

I don't think anyone here, there or anywhere would laugh at a kid who was practicing placing pro on a toprope, or by bounce testing, or by any other acceptable means.

To get back to your original question "Is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?"

It is important to recognize both. Fortunately, there is more than one technique for learning, so we have the opportunity to both learn what a good nut placement is, and to also choose the least bad among several choices of placement. I'm not sure how one or the other of the techniques related to sport vs. aid climbing.

Hey look, someone made a lego model of you!



 
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frik

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2014, 02:17:51 PM »

luk, you make that story up?
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kenreville

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2014, 03:28:39 PM »

Don't you ever grow tired of being the laughing stock around here LL?

22 years old guy...unexpectedly felt...four trad pieces,but the two top pulled out.. accidents in north american mountaineering; just open few pages and look the word protection in the title

I just hope that you will remember your participation at those kind of accident, you influence those kid to have accident

told those parents: he didn't learned to place pro because he was afraid that the other climber will laught at him if he workout some technique.

My participation? My influence for a kid to have an accident?

WTF are you babbling about?

Better get back on your meds......

And thanks for answering my original question. Your answer being a resounding NO.
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lucky luke

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #13 on: July 10, 2014, 09:21:57 PM »

I don't think anyone here, there or anywhere would laugh at a kid who was practicing placing pro on a toprope, or by bounce testing, or by any other acceptable means.

To get back to your original question "Is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?"

The bounce test is a good exemple of learning what is a good nuts. In doing a bounce test, the climber try to think that the pro is as good as a bolt: "you see, it is good...it hold". He have pain as doing it and will remember it too. A bounce test place maybe two or three hundred pounds on the pro...a real fall on the top pro is around a minimum of five hundred. So, the bounce test tis not good to climb safely canon because it is not technique. We learned that 25 years ago.

By laughing at other, and I am not the only one at who you laugh...any one who want to be secure in trad will have your bad comments, by laughing at other, people don't take time to understand the technique deeply.

The results of your act is:

His placement were poor. I could see this as he climbed the route, thought I only note that he didn't place the gear with respect to the direction of load. I should 've said some thing...

Done voluntarily or by stupidity, laughing at some one because he talk about safety...it is...



 
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kenreville

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #14 on: July 10, 2014, 10:23:54 PM »

I don't think anyone here, there or anywhere would laugh at a kid who was practicing placing pro on a toprope, or by bounce testing, or by any other acceptable means.

To get back to your original question "Is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?"

The bounce test is a good exemple of learning what is a good nuts. In doing a bounce test, the climber try to think that the pro is as good as a bolt: "you see, it is good...it hold". He have pain as doing it and will remember it too. A bounce test place maybe two or three hundred pounds on the pro...a real fall on the top pro is around a minimum of five hundred. So, the bounce test tis not good to climb safely canon because it is not technique. We learned that 25 years ago.

By laughing at other, and I am not the only one at who you laugh...any one who want to be secure in trad will have your bad comments, by laughing at other, people don't take time to understand the technique deeply.

The results of your act is:

His placement were poor. I could see this as he climbed the route, thought I only note that he didn't place the gear with respect to the direction of load. I should 've said some thing...

Done voluntarily or by stupidity, laughing at some one because he talk about safety...it is...

I have NEVER laughed at another climber nor have I EVER seen another climber laugh at another. What makes you think you are an authority on everything climbing? Your "tick" list really isn't very impressive. Really, It's not. Many people on this site left you in the dust years ago and you'll be forever choking on their dust. And no matter how hard you try, you'll NEVER catch up. So please, spare us all your drivel and STFU.  You are an insignificant climber. Stop trying to pretend you're anything but. Ferchrissakes.......
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