Author Topic: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?  (Read 699 times)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #15 on: July 11, 2014, 09:37:45 AM »
I yelled, "falling!" and turned around so I would slide on my butt. I looked at my protection, waiting for it to catch mme. Much to my surprise, my placement wasn't "bomber". The Camalot ripped off a two-foot by one-foot chunk of rock, leaving me with no protection. (Snake dike at half dome...done thousand of time) accident in north american mountaineering

Offline frik

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #16 on: July 11, 2014, 09:48:16 AM »
Ken, you need to pull that hook out of your mouth and just swim away.....

Offline kenreville

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #17 on: July 11, 2014, 12:48:06 PM »
Ken, you need to pull that hook out of your mouth and just swim away.....

His rancid bait keeps me from getting "hooked".
There are times though when the only thing left to do is a smackdown.
There are VERY few people I've ever met that can afford to be arrogant. LL is most definitely not one of them. And yet his arrogance spills out with every sentence.

 

Offline Old Mans Ghost

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #18 on: July 11, 2014, 12:58:17 PM »
I heard that he farts in your general direction.
I have a question? Who does number one work for.

Offline frik

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #19 on: July 11, 2014, 01:19:49 PM »
Hate to have to tell you... but, he's hooked and landed you.  Rancid bait seems to work pretty well.


Offline SA

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #20 on: July 11, 2014, 04:27:51 PM »
LL,

I will give you my honest opinion on the ability of a beginner to learn how to place protection; including nuts.
I have concluded that some people have a very "mechanical" mind, and aptitude to place good pro. It would take this type of person a much shorter time span to learn this skill set.

Then there are other people who would be very slow learners, largely due to their inability to "see" the big picture. I taught "shop" courses in high school for 35 years, and from the very first few weeks, I could see the students that had a natural ability, and those that did not. I think some of these "hands on " skills are ingrained from birth, and some people will learn much quicker than others.

Offline kenreville

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #21 on: July 11, 2014, 07:50:45 PM »
Hate to have to tell you... but, he's hooked and landed you.  Rancid bait seems to work pretty well.

No way good sir. Hooked and landed? Don't think so. If he could get me into the boat I'll devour him.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #22 on: July 13, 2014, 08:45:53 PM »
LL,

I will give you my honest opinion on the ability of a beginner to learn how to place protection; including nuts.
I have concluded that some people have a very "mechanical" mind, and aptitude to place good pro. It would take this type of person a much shorter time span to learn this skill set.

Then there are other people who would be very slow learners, largely due to their inability to "see" the big picture. I taught "shop" courses in high school for 35 years, and from the very first few weeks, I could see the students that had a natural ability, and those that did not. I think some of these "hands on " skills are ingrained from birth, and some people will learn much quicker than others.

I remember a time when the strong climber took a beer in front of the kiosque at cathedral, talking like you are writing. I learned a lot just by listening. I am sorry that the heritage of many years of climbing will disappear and be replace by I climb hard, I drill a bolt....


with better people, I will ask, to the community, to know how we can know if we are skill or if we need to have more practice, which is great for safety. But some people will laugh at me just because they want to be the best climber or they want to banish climbing. 
« Last Edit: July 13, 2014, 08:50:03 PM by lucky luke »

Online xcrag_corex

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #23 on: July 13, 2014, 09:09:24 PM »
The short answer, Lucky, is that as climbers most of us never stop learning. We are always finding safer and more efficient ways of moving through the hills and on cliffs.... Always adding a skill to our quiver of knowledge...
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

DLottmann

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #24 on: July 13, 2014, 09:18:49 PM »

I remember a time when the strong climber took a beer in front of the kiosque at cathedral, talking like you are writing. I learned a lot just by listening. I am sorry that the heritage of many years of climbing will disappear and be replace by I climb hard, I drill a bolt....

with better people, I will ask, to the community, to know how we can know if we are skill or if we need to have more practice, which is great for safety. But some people will laugh at me just because they want to be the best climber or they want to banish climbing.

We still drink beer by the kiosk.

You really think Sport Climbing and Trad Climbing can't co-exist don't you?

"how we can know if we are skill or if we need to have more practice"

We always need more practice. Always. There is no "I am skill".

I laugh at you because as passionate as you are about what you believe in, your method of preaching will NEVER help 1 frickin' climber be safer. You preach and preach and preach, and we entertain you with responses.

You are not a troll, because you believe the shit you spew, and see climbing in ways no one here does... trying to convince myself you are trolling is simply easier than believing you really think the way you think...

Offline lucky luke

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #25 on: July 14, 2014, 02:22:59 PM »
The short answer, Lucky, is that as climbers most of us never stop learning. We are always finding safer and more efficient ways of moving through the hills and on cliffs.... Always adding a skill to our quiver of knowledge...

yes I agree. but with the new generation, where they try to institutionalize climbing, the focus is more on people repeating a move or a technique than on deciding what technique is good in a variable environment like the cliff.

As SA said, and begin a discussion, some can learn naturally climbing and some other will have to work for it. If it need six hours a month, for example, to keep the level of good protection acceptable and the climber did two...it is a problem, a lack of safety. If you compare a person who need two hours with one who need six, with two hours a month of work out, one is going to be better than the other. And it will not be a 5.10 or 5.12 distinction...it will be a difference between death and life.

I think that I can bring some interesting point, just to think about it, to acquire more safety. and, as you said, I am still learning too.     

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: is it better to know what is a good nuts placement or a bad one?
« Reply #26 on: July 14, 2014, 09:02:24 PM »
But some people will laugh at me just because they want to be the best climber or they want to banish climbing.

personally, i laugh at you because you're "funny…"

ed e
pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.