Author Topic: Early Sport Climbing ?  (Read 457 times)

Offline strandman

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #15 on: December 08, 2014, 05:17:34 PM »
It's like going to a shrink......"have you had sport thoughts in the past?"

What will i do ? I have a crag that needs 200-300 bolts ?

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #16 on: December 08, 2014, 05:55:01 PM »
I'm not really that well informed, but I thought To Bolt or Not to Be at Smith was the first " sport route ", like 1983?

Dirty Gerdie I don't think counts, there are three pins I think, and clipping the first one is pretty sporty.

Coming from further South, the very few bolts in the Gunks interested me enough that Never Never Land was my first 5.9 lead. P-38/SL as I did it was almost all nuts,was it different earlier?

Circa 1981/2 Mel Hamel and I came here and explored the recently discovered South Buttress. The waitress at the Big Pickle gave us a topo on a napkin for Children's Crusade, to " follow a line of bolts up a left leaning dike". The first one we came to( I'd never seen such a thing) was Last Tango, and we got way up into it, of course, it was wet at the bottom and I climbed it one barefoot and one shod, and couldn't do the crux, but being NH where we always got our asses handed anyway, we just assumed we sucked.

Next day the waitress straightened us out, we did CC. Later happened to walk by when Russ and Rosie had just freed LT. Surely that is/ was a sport route?

Edit: When we pushed the envelope, we yo-yo'd, which to us was way more acceptable than hang dogging per se. Three falls, you're out. Fall and must go back to a no-hands rest. I don't ever recall doing it toward a redpoint goal, if yo-yo'd it was compromised, but ok for training.
« Last Edit: December 08, 2014, 06:05:50 PM by The other tomcat »
Tom Stryker

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #17 on: December 08, 2014, 06:00:28 PM »
Go for it strand ;D
You know how Ed got me started. Handed me the power drill. "here, give this baby a little taste, go ahead, try it. no ones looking. yeah, thats it! you can rap in, its ok. yea, yea you got it! you got it, toke it! Toke it! drill baby drill! you like that? want annother taste ;D

The modern definition of sport really is very simple. The BY is not sport. Slip tease Skid Row is not sport. Lost Soles is not sport.
Sport climbing is all modern fixed gear G or PG rated.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #18 on: December 08, 2014, 08:55:55 PM »
Fantastic stories, Tom. 
I do remember doing some stepping up down and up again low down on DG too.
Tho' I think JB Tribout freed To Bolt around '85/'86. I remember that the video of JB and a bunch of Lycra clad climbers, incl Lynn Hill, free climbing the route was all the rage when I started out in '89/'90. Sportiva Mega was the hot shoe then.  First .14 in the US!!
 
John, just go for it!  Some classics to be uncovered, I am sure.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline pappy

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #19 on: December 10, 2014, 10:57:02 PM »
Watts put up a lot of stuff at Smith that is clearly sport well before To Bolt. I remember doing doing Bishop's Jaggers in the South Platte with Ajax in '85 and off to the right was this interminable line of bolts (Tales of Topographic Oceans), I mean, there was one every 10 goddam feet. We looked at each other and just shook our heads, 'For Chrissakes, what p---y did that?'
« Last Edit: December 10, 2014, 10:59:12 PM by pappy »
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline strandman

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #20 on: December 13, 2014, 05:19:02 PM »
pappy..TTO is the most popular route in the Platte..14 bolts bolts in 150' of 10A slab..double Across the Universe!

Skinner told me that Fall Wall or ? was "sporty"  at Veedawoo 'cause it was all bolts!  Ya 11C 4 bolts !  shit..i can go  back to NH for this

My standard will be no more than 8 bolts in 30m....unless i can't  do it

Offline sneoh

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #21 on: December 13, 2014, 05:29:16 PM »
TTO is the most popular route in the Platte..14 bolts bolts in 150' of 10A slab..double Across the Universe!
My standard will be no more than 8 bolts in 30m....unless i can't  do it
Hey, I like the bolting on TTO (never mind I've never been on it).  What's wrong with that? :)
In general, 8 in 30m will leave some sportiness in the sport.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #22 on: December 13, 2014, 05:52:53 PM »
it should have been done on the lead..like other Platte routes.  then you don't get the bullshit like Ventilator.Western lady...etc

Crest Jewel in Yosemite has at least 100 bolts..on lead..in the right places  IMO the best moderate slab anywhere

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #23 on: December 14, 2014, 07:00:22 PM »
Agree Jon, crest jewel is a great route, but bolts in the right places?  They could have taken a couple from the "crux" pitch and put them on the runout first or second.  I walked out there in the dark and almost went home looking at the first pitch, only 5.9 I know.   You risk your ass on the first two pitches and then there is a bolt every five feet at the supposed crux.  Fine  to have one bolt per pitch on 5.9 and then a bolt ladder on 5.10 as long as it was bolted on lead.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #24 on: December 15, 2014, 09:26:44 AM »
almost went home looking at the first pitch, only 5.9 I know.   
Is it QQ 5.9?  :)  Sketch .....

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #25 on: December 15, 2014, 09:41:12 AM »
Good point Ward..it was bolted in EB's  and some rain..must have been gripping. Quite few Valley routes now have bolts all over because of better shoes.  Anchor's Away is brutal.
I got lost on P 5 Crest Jewel ?  once and clipped one bolt in 150'

S---QQ 5.8 max

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #26 on: December 15, 2014, 09:59:16 AM »
I got lost on I think the same pitch, lol.  It was pretty moderate but totally unprotected and Paula asks me "Do you see any bolts?"   Yeah, about 50 feet due right of me.....

Offline pappy

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Re: Early Sport Climbing ?
« Reply #27 on: December 15, 2014, 10:07:27 AM »
I led the third pitch of Bishop's Jaggers, which was pretty mellow, easy 5.8 I think they called it, but had one bolt in a 150'. So I climbed and climbed and finally about 80' out saw the bolt--20' down and to the right--thought about it for a second and decided 'f--ck it, no way it's worth downclimbing to clip that' and just kept going. That's the problem with TTO, it's just completely out of a character for the area. Besides, seems to me that 'slab sport climb' should be an oxymoron.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.