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Author Topic: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt  (Read 868 times)

steve4464

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Re: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt
« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2014, 05:39:44 PM »

Putting a locking biner on the draw instead of a standard wire gate is addressing a completely different hazard than turning a wire gate upside down, unless you're placing opposite and opposed wire gates the inverted biner, again my opinion, gives you nothing... other than perhaps the same warm-comfy feeling that a double fisherman above your figure eight provides...
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Pete Jackson

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Re: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt
« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2014, 09:15:56 PM »

Putting a locking biner on the draw instead of a standard wire gate is addressing a completely different hazard than turning a wire gate upside down, unless you're placing opposite and opposed wire gates the inverted biner, again my opinion, gives you nothing... other than perhaps the same warm-comfy feeling that a double fisherman above your figure eight provides...

Lockers on both sides of the draw, not just the rope side.

Alternatively, an alpine draw that twists freely is less likely to suffer the hanger side unclipping than a sewn dogbone.   
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Admin Al

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Re: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt
« Reply #17 on: July 23, 2014, 07:26:18 AM »

I never use dog bones, don't even own any. Of course I rarely, if ever, climb sport... ;-)
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Al Hospers
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eyebolter

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Re: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt
« Reply #18 on: July 23, 2014, 02:01:52 PM »

I've never rotated the top biner' as the OP is talking about... it would be a rarity if there was a feature/nub thing I was worried about...

I think the more common "mistake" is people rigging quickdraws so that the bolt and rope biner's are not facing the same way. Most folks know the rope biner gate is best facing away from the line of travel to the next bolt... and Petzl has demonstrated how easy it is for the quickdraw to un-clip itself from the bolt when the gate faces towards the direction of travel...

so...

both gates should always face away from direction of travel...


Except that I find it much easier to clip when the gate is facing me.   I use only wire gates on the bottom end for that reason.  I know coming unclipped is a possibility, but has never happened to me in 37 years of climbing.   However I am talking about well protected sport routes; if it is a single piece between me and eternity I do point the gate away or (better) use a locker.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt
« Reply #19 on: July 23, 2014, 10:33:41 PM »

one time in the middle of the crux sequence at a spot where i had previously fallen I brushed the  rope end biner on a green camalot with my foot. the biner hit a protusion of rock,the gate opened and the rope popped out just like a majick trick.  it was 15 yeqrs ago but i think it may have been a wire gate? pretty certain it was a sport draw. getting old.. annother time just before my one and only leader fall on ice i kicked the biner on an ice screw and it unclipped from the rope. that time I had run out of slings and had just a single biner on the screw.

Damn straight i flip the bolt or pin end biner upside down for a critical piece. not afraide to use lockers on the rope end either..
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Re: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt
« Reply #20 on: July 24, 2014, 08:57:16 AM »

not afraid to use lockers on the rope end either..

+++++
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sneoh

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Re: Carabiner Vertical Orientation in Bolt
« Reply #21 on: July 24, 2014, 08:21:49 PM »

not afraid to use lockers on the rope end either..

+++++
I've got a draw with a locker on the rope side.  I've used it about a dozen times in 10 years or so.
DAMN glad every time I had used it.
Maybe I will subst out the top biner for a locker too.
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