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Author Topic: Hone Wall Facelift  (Read 293 times)

jclimbs

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Hone Wall Facelift
« on: July 25, 2014, 07:25:10 AM »

I climbed at Echo's Hone Wall recently and really enjoyed the lines. Thanks to the crew for making many of those climbs safer and super fun.  I reviewed the posts and photos from last October, compared them with the guidebook and I am confused mostly about the 3 routes that are all about 5.9ish - hoping someone can clarify.

From left to right I climbed:
1. A line of bolts that is right of No Pigs about 15-20 feet and runs up along a sort of small groove or right facing corner. SOTN description of Broken Dreams would match this, but maybe this is a totally new line? (felt like a soft 9 to me)
2. The next line over to the right was also fully bolted and climbed over a small roof/bulge at a weakness and the crux was at the small overlap above. This seems to match the SOTN description for Race Day - is that correct? The photo posted LOOKS like this climb but is said to be Rain Dance instead (maybe it is the angle of the photo that distorts it). The 2-bolt anchor was up on a large comfortable ledge.
3. The 3rd climb we did just to the right again went over a larger section of roof down low on huge jugs (bolt below roof and just over roof), then up to the top - I had to choose which anchor to go to - the left anchor, shared with the climb to the left or the anchor to the right and higher which I think is the Just Roofin' Around anchor.  Is this Rain Dance or a new line?

2 friendly local guys were climbing there and by then had made their way over to Just Roofiin Around and that was just to the right of the route we were climbing that has the low roof (not really what I would call an "overlap" as the guidebook implies.) So I'm pretty sure it was Rain Dance but not sure the photo and SOTL description matches.

NCO Takeoff is incredibly safe to climb now and super fun.  Sure glad you left No Pigs alone as it would feel silly with more bolts. Center Line could use new webbing and a couple of quicklinks - there was only one rusty link there so we left a 'biner to rap.

Anyway, thanks for any clarification if possible and thanks again for the hard work to make this cliff so fun!  And the ladders at the SI Wall are great, too!
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kenreville

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Re: Hone Wall Facelift
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2014, 09:07:24 AM »

I haven't been there in many years, but just to the right of No Pigs, myself and Jamie Cunningham put up a ground up line with only one bolt called Hexmate. It's 5.10R. Sure hope no one has retro bolted the route.
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jclimbs

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Re: Hone Wall Facelift
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2014, 10:07:23 AM »

No way the line I speak of is Hexmate as it feels more like 5.8 - and I'm confident Jamie wouldn't have bolted anything you FA'd without speaking to you. They seemed clear about that ethic in the October 2013 posts....
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Lucky Lucy

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Re: Hone Wall Facelift
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2014, 11:27:47 AM »

I haven't been there in many years, but just to the right of No Pigs, myself and Jamie Cunningham put up a ground up line with only one bolt called Hexmate. It's 5.10R. Sure hope no one has retro bolted the route.

it's still 10R.
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kenreville

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Re: Hone Wall Facelift
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2014, 12:43:10 PM »

Thanks Lucky Lucy. Welcome to the sight. Although something tells me you're a reincarnation.

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Nemesis

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Re: Hone Wall Facelift
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2014, 04:29:11 PM »

Thanks Lucky Lucy. Welcome to the sight. Although something tells me you're a reincarnation.

and a wanker
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kenreville

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Re: Hone Wall Facelift
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2014, 08:21:48 PM »

No way the line I speak of is Hexmate as it feels more like 5.8 - and I'm confident Jamie wouldn't have bolted anything you FA'd without speaking to you. They seemed clear about that ethic in the October 2013 posts....

You are right. JC would never retro-bolt anyone's line without prior approval.

Least of all mine. He knows- I'd kick his ass. (love ya man)  ;)
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