General > Rock Climbing: Trad


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Brandie and I did this yesterday evening.  Got started around 5 pm and were rushing to pack up the gear right at dusk.  The mosquito's at the base were horrendous, but we didn't think to grab bug spray from the car.  It was our first time on Whitehorse, and it certainly won't be the last!  We did the first 4 pitches together and I went up the 5th pitch and lowered off after leaving some tat on the 6" oak tree.  She's been raving about the climb since we got off the Ledge.

While we were climbing, a group of 3 started practically running up a route in the middle of the slabs, simul-climbing.  About the time I got back to the 4th pitch belay, they had shifted over and were coming up behind us.  As the leader was going up and over the flake, we found out that it was none other than Chris Magness!  First time I've ever been on a route and had one of the FA's come up behind us. :) 

Couple pics, nothing too exciting...  I got Brandie to lead the 3rd pitch, we're counting it as her first trad lead even though she never placed any gear...

If anyone is headed up there soon, there's blueberries ready for the picking up on the 4th pitch.

And we could pretty clearly see where we got married last October:

Admin Al:
nice... glad to see she's taking the lead on the rock.

While in Squamish, my wife and I were racking up for a 5 star 5.9 hand crack.  There was one party in front of us.  The man leading the route was super solid and only placed 4 pieces of gear ( way casual ). When he got down to the ground I commented on how well he sent it, and he replied " I should be pretty good at it by now I had the first ascent 30 years ago"  The route was called Penny Lane. One of the coolest things about climbing is how you are able to connect with the people you have read about!!  Not a lot of other sports offer this opportunity.

So if I meet Chouinard, i can say  " i buy your pants"?

First time I ever met Bachar, i bought weed from him.

John thats classic.  Also, Cormier is an awesome fun route.  Some people don recommend topping out, But I say do it.  Super fun.


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