Author Topic: New routes NE crags of Greens cliff  (Read 978 times)

Offline crazyt

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New routes NE crags of Greens cliff
« on: September 02, 2014, 10:46:21 AM »
On August 24 Amy Colburn led the prominent chimney on the beanstalk wall. No preview, ground up in great style. Squeez Box is 5.8 and follows the squeez chimney through a keyhole then up to a bolted belay put in by Mark Sprague during an earlier explore of this wall. Up left of the belay is a prominent crack leading to the top. I made a probe but backed off from the runout getting to the crack. At Amys' suggestion I played hooky the next day and after Amy led Squeez Box again I hand drilled two bolts, with aid from a pointed leeper, to gain the crack but failed at freeclimbing it and AO'd my way to the top.
 On August 30th I went back to clean the crack on rappel in the hopes that Sprague would show up and we could send it that day. I got the crack clean, still no mark, Ran it on a solo tr, still no mark and then started packing things up to head home. About 3pm I heard a voice. Figuring it was Mark, better late than never, but it turned out to be Bayard and Ann Russell. After those guys did Beanstalk crack I led Squeez Box to the belay then sent my crack which I named Happy Camper at 5.10. After getting the rope stuck on rappel Bayard led up new ground just right of Squeez Box to the same belay. Not sure about the name.
Summary:  Squeez Box 5.8 70ft FA Amy Colburn, Tom Bowker 8/24/14
               Happy Camper 5.10 60ft FA Tom Bowker Amy Colburn 8/25/14
                                                FFA Tom Bowker, Bayard Russell, Ann Skidmore Russell 8/30/14
« Last Edit: September 02, 2014, 11:53:45 AM by crazyt »
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Offline old_school

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Re: New routes NE crags of Greens cliff
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2014, 10:59:03 AM »
Nice work you guys! Sounds great!
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: New routes NE crags of Greens cliff
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2014, 11:25:31 AM »
Nice going everybody. Sorry about not being able to make it Tom. After a week of 14-15 hr days at a job site I couldn't get myself going at 3:30 am  Sat and fell back asleep. When I woke back up and got ready I realized I was feeling pretty sick, too late to be able to contact you, one of the issues of climbing at a crag 5 hrs away and out of signal range.  :-[ I also knew you are self sufficient and had lots of cleaning to do. My apologies again though. Very glad you were able to get some actual climbing in.

That chimney and the 'Happy Camper' hand crack that makes the second pitch left arm of the obvious 'Y' is a line that that you can't help say "Man, I have to climb that" when you first walk up to the wall. I haven't been back on it since I rapped in to check it out about 5 years ago, but I am looking forward to it.
 
The crack system just to the right that Bayard lead, looks fun too.

Unfortunately, the potential for a stuck rope is a major problem. I had the same issue when I pulled my rope from exploring. Best bet is to rap off to the climber's right to get the rope on the other side of a bush and then pull quickly to keep it from dropping into the deep crack
« Last Edit: September 02, 2014, 11:59:55 AM by M_Sprague »
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: New routes NE crags of Greens cliff
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2014, 11:46:29 AM »


Old, foreshortened picture from initial exploration. 'Happy Camper is the wide straight hand crack at the top, just left of the chimney.  It kind of looks like a branch here


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/109422835#a_109422844
« Last Edit: September 02, 2014, 11:52:42 AM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait