General > Rock Climbing: Trad

Raising the Roof - The Ligor

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steve4464:
A friend and  I did all three pitches of Raising the Roof a couple weeks back. Much to our surprise upon getting down we learned the third pitch, as we did it, was the Ligor.

Two things:

1) I think The Ligor ( 10a) should get more traffic. It is a fun route and needs some cleaning up. Traffic would do it.

2) Does anyone know the grade of the 3 pitch slab climb to the right of the Ligor? I think its hard slab, maybe  10c. Anyone know?

Echo:
Glad you liked The Liger, George & I were amazed at how good that crack was. If you are not up for the 5.10a crux at the end it is easy to escape right onto a ledge and into the woods... that keeps the route at about 5.8, but the 5.10a jam at the top is super well protected and itís a very clean fall.

Originally I wanted the route to go up the initial slab. I had TRíd it and thought it to be about 5.9. 1 or 2 bolts would have made it reasonable. George preferred the route start up the corner, and given his experience I wasnít going to argue. The 2 bolts in the corner went in and I think that start is 5.6ish with an awkward move just before gaining the good ledge below the steep crack/corner that is The Liger.

I think George put something in a few weeks later up that slab that climbs the slab then does some obscure stuff about 15-20 right of the corner, but I donít see it in the route database here or in the new guidebook...

Websterís guidebook mentions a 2nd pitch of They Died that supposedly went at dirty 5.5. Iíve scoped out that shallow right facing book that would be the natural line under The Liger and it has a pin or two protecting some harder than 5.5 moves, but I havenít really tried it yet.

Raising the Roofís 1st pitch is some of the best 5.8 on the whole cliff, a must do in the area IMO, and usually free even if every other route at the North End has people on it!

David_G48:
Echo, isn't the route to the right of Liger called Post Mortem? I know that George continues to call the slab 5.9 as you had graded it. At the top of the slab the route goes slightly right and then up. The crux is protected by a small wire which I never trusted but, obviously George felt good about it.

Echo:

--- Quote from: David_G48 on August 13, 2014, 11:58:02 AM ---Echo, isn't the route to the right of Liger called Post Mortem? I know that George continues to call the slab 5.9 as you had graded it. At the top of the slab the route goes slightly right and then up. The crux is protected by a small wire which I never trusted but, obviously George felt good about it.

--- End quote ---

I'm really not sure as I haven't done the upper bit to the right it but that sounds about right... if you like slab then it's a better start to The Liger IMO and keeps the grade more consistent... basically 5.9 slab to fun 5.8 with a 5.10 hand jam exit move... what's not to like? ;)

steve4464:
One, the first two bolts "might" be 5.9-ish that third is every bit 10a/b. Second, like I said above, a little more traffic on the corner crack and finger/hand and the route would be really fun.

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