Author Topic: little bit of history  (Read 2570 times)

Offline lucky luke

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little bit of history
« on: August 21, 2014, 12:29:35 pm »
I was looking at old picture from the 1800 early 1900 when just a rope was used as a fence at the top of cathedral. The people on the picture were taking photo of a climber in standard. Back to this time, you are or a climber, and just try to find partner as good as you are, or you guiding and teach people how to climb. If some one say "yes", you just stick with him and try to climb as much as you could.

With time more climber appear and also more guide. If a climber is not as good as you are, there is just a bunch of similar one to try. Guide also had more client. If some guide took five days to bring a client to be able to climb a 5.9, much of them can winch a client in the classic of an area in half a day. If you look at the atc guide that we have actually, or the gri gri, it work like a winch and you can do a 3 or ...5 for one just to winch the climber up the route. In general, those guy took one party in the morning and a second in the afternoon...making good money. As they don't teach how to make a solid anchor, they place bolt. As they don't teach how to belay, they need fixe gear in the hard move so they can self belay themselve with a sling. The sling appear to be used for every thing, except safety.

But today, because of accident and econonic recession situation, the client are fewer and they don't have time to learn. The guide who are used to winch there client have to find other solution to make money...few days ago, I was climbing with a partner and I told him how to jam is foot in a crack. He told me that it hurt too much and went to climb with other people like him the next day.He didn't climb one of the three routes correctly, all in bad style. but the important for him is thar he touch the top. In doing so, he his not also a sport climber, because, at least, sport climber know there techniques of jamming. He is just a student of a guide who whinch his client. On the other side, I saw a guide who teach to a beginner how to place/choose and set protection in love place and keep the one stopper or cam placement for the difficult crack. A think that the student, visibly not captivate, will not remember, except when she will need it at the most important moment: sharp end of the rope.

As a beginner what do you expect from a guide and do you agree to limit climbing to small bolt cliff? 

Offline Lucky4Uguys

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2014, 01:07:22 pm »
Bueller? Let see who will bite this time. And the prize goes to.
Wait 5 to 1 wow...sounds like potential gear failure as your weight is added to deez nuts if not properly wedged in the crevice and direction of pull. Sport climbing, man that 5.13 was mad easy the other day. Reached up clipped the draw, held on to the draw and clipped the next bolt. Man that was easy. I am hiking from now on. I mean what is there to look forward to.  ;D

Offline strandman

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2014, 07:17:44 pm »
A fence over 100 years ago ??   

Offline JBro

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2014, 07:26:49 pm »
A fence over 100 years ago ??


They put it up after the Fintstones drove up the old Dino path and sadly lost Fred when his Flinstone Flyer failed during testing. RIP



« Last Edit: August 22, 2014, 07:30:51 pm by JBrochu »
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Offline lucky luke

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2014, 08:04:39 pm »
A fence over 100 years ago ??

I think that it is in the first ascent of the chimney on the right of toe crack:
Quote
http://books.google.ca/books?id=kupxFCCxf78C&pg=PA116&lpg=PA116&dq=deforestation+cathedral+ledge+new+hampshire&source=bl&ots=RNH9yBc4yU&sig=8FuXpY5oCgN1L54y0JYunyKW4QE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=G9n3U5OtL6ma8QHWh4DwBw&ved=0CEAQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=deforestation%20cathedral%20ledge%20new%20hampshire&f=false.

 I was looking for deforestation and to have a better view of the cliff. Before, in the eighty, there was no deterioration of the environment, but the multi  use of the place was more important. Actually, the cliff look more like just a view point and nothing else to do. Some protective management can be done to gave a view to the cliff and to the ecology of this type of formation instead of a tree fence picnick table
« Last Edit: August 22, 2014, 08:50:20 pm by lucky luke »

Offline DGoguen

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #5 on: August 23, 2014, 08:52:44 am »
Judging by the penny loafers, he probably drove up. That picture is probably from the early sixties.

That iron post and cable fence was around in the mid seventies.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2014, 10:49:52 am by DGoguen »
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Offline strandman

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #6 on: August 23, 2014, 10:11:56 am »
the chimney right of Toe crack is Standard route,,done around 1931

Offline Admin Al

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2014, 02:11:28 pm »
Thnx for posting the link to this book. Scrolling down the page I found myself wondering where the Devils Den is? I know of a few cave-like places in the boulder field, but nothing quite like this.
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2014, 02:13:25 pm »
Somewhere I have a scan of a painting of Cathedral from across the River, painted in I think the late 17 or early 1800's. There were very few trees an it was all farmland. I'll try to find it...
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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2014, 02:17:05 pm »
http://whitemountainart.com/OnePageImages/moat_bc_131.htm

This may be it, but it's late 1800's by Benjamin Champney.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2014, 02:20:04 pm by Admin Al »
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Offline DGoguen

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2014, 03:20:59 pm »
That is beautiful and no doubt the original is expensive.
He's pretty generous with the size of the moats in the background. Ha

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Offline lucky luke

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Re: little bit of history
« Reply #11 on: August 23, 2014, 03:56:50 pm »
Somewhere I have a scan of a painting of Cathedral from across the River, painted in I think the late 17 or early 1800's. There were very few trees an it was all farmland. I'll try to find it...

Those picture/painting are interesting because we can see the evolution of the activity and what made the popularity of the site.

As the park exist since 1914, and people hike cathedral summit at that time and still hike it, can we say that hiking cathedral is too easy??? Hiking to the top is still a great activity. Looking at the picture, we can see that many places is intact from man deterioration. Some trees at the top are still alive after 40 to 50 years and are took in picture with the tourism.

Climbing was the second important activity. As people arrive at the kiosque, they can look at people struggling in thin air and didm't look at those on the prow. People are more interested by some thing close to what they can do than by some thing obviously out of reach. of course, in the tourism, there is also climber. Looking at those more sustain routes...and learning by watching climber. Some thing that we can't do any more because there is too much leaves in few trees. Curisouly, I can cite All who said one day's: i was looking some climber and as they didn't do any thing after an hour, I leaved. Of course, when people don't know how to climb and fall/try/fall a multi number of time without understanding the move...it is not fun.

From the evolution, we can make some management and those action will help the climbing community and the tourism. For example, taking a (sic bear) a beer at the bottom of the cliff, talking with climber and waiting for the last one to be at the bottom was done very often in the past. Talking about climbing to be able to put loud music and drink beer....could not be in the mentality of rock climber. When you understand that for some one the first activity is to drink beer more than practicing how to get out of trouble with a prusick...there is a problem.

Climbing in good style is also very important for me. Follow a leader on some thing hard to know your level and workout during the week to know how to make a movement is in the ethic of trad and should be in the ethic of sport (actually they try a move many time to the execution not always with style). Climber most show that they are master of the rock and don't barely climb to the summit, even if it will happen some time. You are not a fireman because you climb in a ladder, you are a fireman because you fight fire and use a ladder to fight.       
« Last Edit: August 23, 2014, 05:20:27 pm by lucky luke »