Author Topic: evolution of the protection  (Read 2462 times)

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1763
evolution of the protection
« on: August 30, 2014, 10:05:40 AM »
As we can say that the next step to drive piton into a crack is to drill a bolt in a slab, what can we say about the evolution of the nuts to the cam that we have actually.

If the stopper could be good every where, why did we have some other device. It is because there is a limit to the stopper and the new protection bring solution for that limit.

My question is what is the limit of the stopper, what is the other protection that we can use and how the other protection work to protect efficiently the climber?

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1763
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2014, 09:42:20 AM »
Here is some model of werid nuts that people used...or not!!! http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2303080

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1763
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2014, 07:51:25 PM »

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 737
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2014, 08:00:23 PM »
Nuts? Lefty and righty are all you need.

Offline Lucky Lucy

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 12
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2014, 09:06:58 PM »
Nuts? Lefty and righty are all you need.

Most girls I know love big nuts!

Nemesis

  • Guest
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2014, 01:40:15 PM »
Nuts? Lefty and righty are all you need.

Most girls I know love big nuts!

Prolly most of the lads you hang with too.

Offline JBro

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1383
  • Doing God's work
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2014, 03:41:41 PM »
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1763
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2014, 05:28:57 PM »
Before they wrote stupidity, 84 person read the post. Ordinarly it is 20 and it is just those who want to dict at the other what they have the right to climb.

84 climber interested at free climbing at there pace, without rules, except for the respect of the ethic as a community of climber do.

Unfortunately, the advice to ignore my post at those kind of people stay just the time to understand that many people don't like them

Echo

  • Guest
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2014, 08:51:40 PM »
84 people (including myself) clicked to see what crap you were spewing today...

4 took the time to make a joke about it... I guess 5 (counting me).

No aspiring climbers read your post/links and had an "ah ha" moment...

You boosted your own topic for 6 days before people started poking fun at it...so I don't feel bad for you.

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1763
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2014, 09:12:11 PM »
My question is what is the limit of the stopper, what is the other protection that we can use and how the other protection work to protect efficiently the climber?

It is interesting to note that in most cases, the protection that stay for years are those using the wedge factor. There is some exception with hexes and some nuts in T shape, but they aren't use often.

There is three basic factor in wedging: 1- the expansion force is always perpendicular to the force exerce, This is an important point as the dissipation of heat from the nuts will be in a vertical way if the nut/cam is in a vertical crack; 2- the bigger the surface of the nuts, smaller will be the pressure on the rock. (i.e a fall on one squares inches will generate a pressure four time lower than a fall on a stopper of half square inches and 3- the protection is as solid as the rock. So if a fall on a one square inch stopper generate 1500 pounds per square inches and the rock broke at 2000 pounds per square inches, it will hold the fall. But the stopper of half square inches won't.

Knowing that basic, you will find some interesting use of different protection

Offline Lucky Lucy

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 12
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2014, 09:40:45 PM »
My question is what is the limit of the stopper, what is the other protection that we can use and how the other protection work to protect efficiently the climber?

It is interesting to note that in most cases, the protection that stay for years are those using the wedge factor. There is some exception with hexes and some nuts in T shape, but they aren't use often.

There is three basic factor in wedging: 1- the expansion force is always perpendicular to the force exerce, This is an important point as the dissipation of heat from the nuts will be in a vertical way if the nut/cam is in a vertical crack; 2- the bigger the surface of the nuts, smaller will be the pressure on the rock. (i.e a fall on one squares inches will generate a pressure four time lower than a fall on a stopper of half square inches and 3- the protection is as solid as the rock. So if a fall on a one square inch stopper generate 1500 pounds per square inches and the rock broke at 2000 pounds per square inches, it will hold the fall. But the stopper of half square inches won't.

Knowing that basic, you will find some interesting use of different protection

I hope you use protection! The thought of you breeding is scary!

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1763
Re: evolution of the protection
« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2014, 10:02:25 PM »

There is three basic factor in wedging: 1- the expansion force is always perpendicular to the force exerce, This is an important point as the dissipation of heat from the nuts will be in a vertical way if the nut/cam is in a vertical crack; 2- the bigger the surface of the nuts, smaller will be the pressure on the rock. (i.e a fall on one squares inches will generate a pressure four time lower than a fall on a stopper of half square inches

When we use a tricam, the point of it most always be place on the most solid part of the rock because the force generate in a very small surface is very high (1000 pounds per square inches on a stopper of one inches, but 10 or 20 tons on a tricam.

If I measure the surface of a friend and make a comparaison with a stopper of one square inches...what will be the force generate on the cam?