Author Topic: strategy to place the pro  (Read 5478 times)

Offline Stephane

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #15 on: October 31, 2014, 10:08:55 PM »
What is a strategy...or what is the strategy of the people above when we are talking about trad climbing?

Strategy, in trad, means; a plan of action designed to achieve an overall aim.

first you most have an objective, an intention to do a route. Gave me a plane ticket, and i will fly to "Les drus" in France because I began to climb with a story on that mountain. It is just 5.7, but for me...it is valuable.

second, it is a plan of action. You want to do the route in four or two pitches? where do you want to built your anchor (when there is no bolt....more fun), which grade, etc.

The answer of all those questions, and some more, make a plan and after you have your plan, you can do it in real life. and make it or fail.

But, as a beginner, what is more fun? to learn how to make a strategy to climb a route, which is the same as a strategy to find a great job, or to always do what dgoguen, sneoh, kenreville and the other wrote?   

Man, you are really overthinking. I mean, seriously.
And I really don't get what the Nose and les Drus are bringing to the point, if not mere name-dropping effect.
« Last Edit: November 01, 2014, 09:30:54 AM by Stephane »

Offline lucky luke

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #16 on: November 01, 2014, 09:38:34 AM »
.
And I really don't get what the Nose and les Drus are bringing to the point, if not mere (and pretty cheap) name-dropping effect.

If you look at the definition of strategy: "Strategy, in trad, means; a plan of action designed to achieve an overall aim"

at the end, you have "overall aim". For people like sneoh, strandman, and some other... the overall aim is to have the first ascent of very hard route that they work and place the bolt with drill and reach there goal. is it just for the glory? to have themoney to buy the bolts, or personal choices, or what ever else? I don't know.

The reality is that a bunch of people like to make exercise and don't like regular gym, they have children and don't want to risk to be injure, they have a job, but don't want to invest time in preparation to do there sport. You take your harness and rope and you go climbing. For them, and it is a majority of climber, sport climbing is great. They went in a gym, socialize with other, reach high goal in terms of level of climbing (5.9 - 5.10) and do that in term of leasure. Boulder is like that too for some people.

Some other people, and there is a lot of them, like hiking. They went to the store, choose carefully there equipment, test it in bad situation, schedule there multi day trip, find partner, workout with full equipment. So, they take about the same amount of time to be ready for a big goal than to do the objective. Some people says: it took five minute to reach the summit, but five year of pleasure to be able to stand close to the summit. The summit is not the goal any more, went you reach the top, your aim is behind you.

So, it is three strategy that people can have. In trad, and you can ask to many old climber, the goal in the gold time was to reach the summit with good style, bottom up. Lost arrow, in yosemite, was first done with a rope trow from above over the summit. It was said that the success of the route was done in bad style.

What is your aim, how many hour can you have for your vacation or week end, what is your responsabilities... those question are all a part of strategy...first to decide which ethic you want to do or....

to annoy those who try to explain the difference between ethic.

your question was fun to answer   

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #17 on: November 01, 2014, 02:51:28 PM »
I am going to get it tattooed there!

+++ +
Al, I am quite confused. Are you adding a plus because he's getting it tattooed, or is that 4 additional plus signs for a grand total of 7? That can start taking up face space pretty quick. Either way, if you decide to move forward with the ink, I know a guy that does great work at reasonable rates...Sneoh.... Don't let us down... Now that you've committed...
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

strandman

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #18 on: November 01, 2014, 04:41:57 PM »
I translated this post to another  language,,planet lepton  now i agree that my strategy is to place pro

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #19 on: November 01, 2014, 06:59:42 PM »
That can start taking up face space pretty quick.

Can't speak for everyone but I'm pretty sure a lot of  people here are gaining forehead space on a yearly basis.;)

Don't Climb

Offline Jeff

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2014, 07:07:21 PM »
Gives us more space for the "face palm" required after reading LL's latest strategy to render us drooling & speechless  :P

sneoh

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #21 on: November 01, 2014, 07:11:42 PM »
For people like sneoh, strandman, and some other... the overall aim is to have the first ascent of very hard route that they work and place the bolt with drill and reach there goal. is it just for the glory? to have themoney to buy the bolts, or personal choices, or what ever else? I don't know.

Hey, Luke, you got your facts wrong, again!  I never have had an FA, only lucky to have a 2nd or 3rd.  And frankly, an FA is too much work for me!  Especially the cleaning!!  I have never placed a bolt but have contributed to several bolt/anchor replacement efforts on the East Coast (looking fwd to doing in person at Peni one day, JohnS!).  Climb for glory? Not at all.  I climb for fun, with friends, and being away from my desk job (a very rewarding job but still a desk job). 

Please express your opinions but please without pulling the "I am holier than thou" attitude here.   And, deny it or not, mentioning Yosemite and les Drus is name dropping with the aim of gaining credibility.  On this Forum?  Please stop before you lose even more of your credibility, whatever is left of it.

sneoh

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #22 on: November 01, 2014, 07:14:27 PM »
That can start taking up face space pretty quick.

Can't speak for everyone but I'm pretty sure a lot of  people here are gaining forehead space on a yearly basis.;)
Definitely speak for yourself!  I have crazy genes which still allow me to have a head full of black hair.  No lie.  But there are downsides.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #23 on: November 02, 2014, 08:00:06 AM »
Hey, Luke, you got your facts wrong, again!  I never have had an FA, only lucky to have a 2nd or 3rd.  And frankly, an FA is too much work for me!  Especially the cleaning!!  I have never placed a bolt but have contributed to several bolt/anchor replacement efforts on the East Coast (looking fwd to doing in person at Peni one day, JohnS!).  Climb for glory? Not at all.  I climb for fun, with friends, and being away from my desk job (a very rewarding job but still a desk job). 

Sorry if I made a mistake, your goal look like the one I describe for sport climber. But you are the only one that know your objective (aim) and know a strategy to reach it.

some older people , climb great route and just want to be in a cliff and talk with others at the bottom. There is those who like competition and went to fight you. You meet some one and he didn't want to climb with you, he want to know if he his better than you. there is also those who climb to have promotion at there work. They don't really like climbing. some people just do the minimum to have there course of guide...compare to a guide who told me: Luke, I wasn't going to school because I was going climbing, so I didn't have my degree. I have to work and I have the chance to do what I like the most...climbing. Unfortunately, a lot of guide actually just do the minimum and, some times, they don't even have the prerequisite.

One objective is to make climbing dangerous. If there is accident, there will be less climber. If there is less climber, they won't be able to find partner and the technique that people develop in fifty years of climbing will disappear. At each time some one, me particularly, talk about "to be prepare for a climb" one of you say stupidity to place all the people in the same strategy: boulder, sport, trad. Nobody can reach there objective by themselves, they have to be humiliate on boulder competition, scare because your memory remember some fall in a boulder that hurt you and you have to fall on bolt the same way (psychological pattern) and totally unprepared to place pro, scary by the fall that you took on bolt, and you know that a stopper is not as good as a bolt, and without adequate technique for multi-pitch route with a rack.

The reason why those people make climbing dangerous are ordinarily bad: to make money...or it can be good if it is because they lost close friends or relative in the mountain and they want to protect them. Lower the number and you lower the number of injure people?

It could be the subject of a thread, but not in this place. The important is to be able to fix your goal. If you have children and you want to climb in the yosemite at forty, your strategy won't be the same as if you want to climb all sport climbing area in the west.

 

strandman

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #24 on: November 02, 2014, 11:33:02 AM »
True LL I climb for glory and to place bolts, because I have the money to do so.  You are so fucking whacked out i don't know what to say....Are you jealous ? Crazy ? don't know

Try the Captain some time 11A so it's a moderate route.14 bolts for pro , so it's not runout,,and put up on site your your prurity will survive..

You know what ? don't ..stay off my climbs..they will start to rot from your shit

Offline lucky luke

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #25 on: November 02, 2014, 04:42:13 PM »
Try the Captain some time 11A so it's a moderate route.14 bolts for pro , so it's not runout,,and put up on site your your prurity will survive...

I am not going to do so. I am not in competition with you and if I was at the bottom of the route and it look like interesting to me, I will climb it. In general, I climbed bolt route to work my technique. I agree that sport climber is very interesting for technique and I like to climb sport in spring and fall with some of my friends.

I don't know why you are climbing. I just know that our ethic is so at each opposition that I still don't understand why you took time to wrote on my subject.

You say that there is no difference between sport and trad. the last topic in sport section is from 3 october. why don't you wrote a topic for the people who climb like you. It will be more positive than talking about shit...

Offline perswig

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #26 on: November 02, 2014, 06:55:41 PM »
John, don't make eye contact and back away slooooowly......


And Sneoh, you continue to demonstrate impressive patience; you wouldn't be a parent, would you?
Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

sneoh

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #27 on: November 02, 2014, 07:46:00 PM »
Yes, Dale, I am a parent to a very bright, head strong, and cheeky 8-1/2 year old (who thinks she knows as much as any adult out there).  Kids these days!

Offline ed_esmond

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #28 on: November 02, 2014, 07:59:59 PM »
some older people , climb great route and just want to be in a cliff and talk with others at the bottom. There is those who like competition and went to fight you.

personally, i go to crags to fight…

i used to go to grim biker bars, but there always was some big, bad, evil muther-fracker who'd kick my @ss. 

obviously, a bad strategy…

my new and improved strategy was to switch to sport crags.  most there are either hot chixs in lycra, or scrawny, beanie wearing, pigeon-chested geeks who obsess constantly: "oh, i hope i am strong enough to do that move tomorrow…."

my success rate went waaay up…

as some kind of "older people," i thought this would help.

ed e

pragmatic: (adj) dealing with the problems that exist in a specific situation in a reasonable and logical way instead of depending on ideas and theories.

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: strategy to place the pro
« Reply #29 on: November 03, 2014, 07:45:33 AM »
^^^^^^ Brilliant.