Author Topic: Your first trad lead  (Read 5734 times)

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #30 on: November 11, 2014, 08:44:48 pm »
First lead?  Can't remember.  I was a "professional 2nd" for years because, back then, "The leader must not fall" and I fell a lot!  I do remember that the first time I belayed a lead climber was on Horseman at the Gunks (but it might have been on Big Chimney . . .).  The year?  1975.

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #31 on: November 12, 2014, 05:47:18 am »
1976, I slung a bunch of nuts I found at home with cord I found at home and tried to lead a 5.6 at Pettsquamscutt Rock in southern Rhode Island on a used goldline.

I called for help at the crux and had a rope thrown to me since the "nuts" didn't work for crap.

Offline Smear

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #32 on: November 12, 2014, 06:06:51 am »
My first lead I believe was at Ross Pond in Conn around 94.It was somewhere near the big roof that people used to rappel off of all the time.
I just picked a line off to the left and"went for it".Scared the shit out of myself trying to get good gear(I remember placing my pink tricam :)

After that I think it was standard on Whitehorse swinging leads with my friend Mark.
Really cool to think back to those times when everything was new.

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #33 on: November 12, 2014, 09:26:13 am »
It really comes through how much everyone wanted to climb, goldline, machine nuts! Pretty cool!
Tom Stryker

Offline strandman

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #34 on: November 12, 2014, 09:53:18 am »
Depends............the long standing rumor is that  George Hurley had the first kernmantle rope ( and jumars) in America around 1957 for the Titan. George and Layton Kor both confirmed this to me years ago, so it MAY be true  8)

Perhaps paul Ross knows..

Offline frik

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #35 on: November 12, 2014, 11:12:47 am »
JB; as I remember it, the only lead you had that day was the "angle incident" pitch, which was up near the top. If you had lead anything more than that, we'd probably still be there...if you know what i mean.

I got some stories. The goldline, pitons, lug boots, knickers & wool socks kind, too sober to write any down right now.

Offline JBro

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #36 on: November 12, 2014, 12:33:41 pm »
Nope, I led the 1st pitch icefall. Which is why we were there all day! (The angle incident was up high though.)

Edit: And how about my first attempted rock lead? When you tried to tell me that little slab thing was easy and safe, and then after I failed miserably you also ended up backing off of it!

« Last Edit: November 12, 2014, 12:36:10 pm by JBrochu »
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Offline frik

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #37 on: November 12, 2014, 01:49:22 pm »
I still think i lead everything on yale, except the angle pitch.

Re: the slab lead, Senator, i do not recall.

Offline sneoh

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #38 on: November 12, 2014, 10:57:46 pm »
It really comes through how much everyone wanted to climb, goldline, machine nuts! Pretty cool!
Yeah, amazing and all great stuff!  Ward, yours was just absolutely hilarious!  What were you thinking??
More remarkable is how we survived all those sketchy first leads.  I do not believe half the pieces I placed on my first lead of Intertwine were any good beyond holding body weight.  Coincidentally, I believe I placed a pink or red tri-cam in a horizontal as one of the first few pieces! :)


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #39 on: November 13, 2014, 07:56:38 pm »
My first rock lead was certainly something insignificant@ Deer Leap. Most likly on top rock? My first multi pitch rock lead was Three Pines @ the gunks, Probobly november of 84?  Nothing dramatic.... casual all the way arround.  My first multi pitch ice lead was  fairly epic though.   
 Jan 8th 1985  chapel Pond slab with a total noob ass hat coke dealer.  It was colder than your ex wifes heart  and the wind was blowing straight from hell. Somehow I got stuck climbing with the guy who knew even considerably less than myself while the two experienced climbers in our group took off and did their own thing..   I ran the rope out on the 1st pitch and never found a single placement, had to simo climb a bit to get to a shallow depression where I could sit down and belay with no anchor.  The thought of Gary the noob coke head slipping and pulling me off while I was simo soloing and then have to lead off the belay with no belay anchor jazzed my brain enough that once I finally reached ice thick enough to take a screw I started fireing them in every body length or so. I only had about 7 borrowed crappy screws so this meant a lot of short pitches.. Low single digits and 35mph winds. Between my slow leading and Gary takeing his gloves off @ belays to  powder his nose he lost his fingers. there was no way for us to bail as there was no gear on the bottom 200ft of the climb and we only had a single 50m rope. I had to give him a pretty good pep talk to keep him focused and get us up and off alive. I think it must have taken us pretty darn close to 8hrs car to car but we made it.....

Offline wivanoff

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #40 on: November 18, 2014, 01:06:21 pm »
My first lead was Animal Crack (I think the real name is Ass Crack but Ken PCed it) a Layton Kor, Sam Streibert route at Ragged Cliff in CT.

Original name was Anal Crack. Ken PCed it to Animal Crack. In Fasulo's book it's Lana Crack... Anal spelled backwards. That's the one with the "hand eating" bucket on top, no?

Anyway, my first trad lead was something out by the stone tower at Sleeping Giant in Hamden, CT - dunno when. First "official" lead was the Weissner Slab at Ragged (dunno when) and first lead at the Gunks was "Belly Roll" in October 1973.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2014, 01:09:38 pm by wivanoff »

Offline strandman

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #41 on: November 18, 2014, 03:49:33 pm »
Is the one next door aid crack ?? another 5.9  ::)
I remember jousting with Ken once about the name..he  said Sam Streibert ok'd it.."ya, so you would shut up about it"

Offline danf

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #42 on: November 18, 2014, 09:03:19 pm »
My first definitely doesn't have a cool story to go along with it like some of yours.  So I'll merely say that my first lead on gear (with "instruction) was Coyote Rain at Longstack, May of last year.  The next day we went and did one of the face climbs at Square Ledge without the "instruction".

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #43 on: November 19, 2014, 04:49:03 pm »
My first definitely doesn't have a cool story to go along with it like some of yours.  So I'll merely say that my first lead on gear (with "instruction) was Coyote Rain at Longstack, May of last year.  The next day we went and did one of the face climbs at Square Ledge without the "instruction".

Coyote Rain onsight as a first trad lead is pretty damn cool man... I got way to many years under my harness to have dicked around at that move for like 5 minutes LOL.

Also, I think "The Chimney" at Square may very well be the best 1st trad lead to learn on in NH.... it's PERFECT for a first trad lead.

Offline markvnh

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #44 on: November 19, 2014, 09:04:22 pm »
I'll second that Coyote Rain is a pretty fine first lead! As I've said at various times on different threads - I think it's hard for its grade at 5.6! It's definitely easier the taller you are - and younger!