Author Topic: Your first trad lead  (Read 5733 times)

Offline wivanoff

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #45 on: November 20, 2014, 10:29:45 am »
Is the one next door aid crack ?? another 5.9  ::)
I remember jousting with Ken once about the name..he  said Sam Streibert ok'd it.."ya, so you would shut up about it"

Yes, Aid Crack is right next door. But, I thought it was 5.10 Dunno. I've led Anal Crack, never led Aid Crack.

I remember Ken telling me that he wasn't going to have any names like that (Anal Crack) in his guidebook and mentioned something about some of the route names at the Gunks.

Offline danf

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #46 on: November 20, 2014, 07:22:22 pm »
I'll second that Coyote Rain is a pretty fine first lead! As I've said at various times on different threads - I think it's hard for its grade at 5.6! It's definitely easier the taller you are - and younger!
LOL! I'm 6'3", so I do have that advantage.  My wife is a foot shorter and has troubles every time pulling that roof.  Even though I've only climbed it a handful of times, I know I can get a #1 WC nut slotted under the roof before I get the bomber .75 Camalot in the horizontal above it.  I don't often remember a lot of gear specifics, but those 2 pieces are ones that I will remember for a long, long time.  It's pretty easy for me to place that cam, then pull myself up and look at the placement before I commit to the move. :D

Offline markvnh

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #47 on: November 20, 2014, 08:28:14 pm »
Dan,

I'm 5'9" and I get those same two pieces but let me tell you it's allot harder for me! I've another buddy who's about your height and he cruises it too! 

With that it's still a damn fine first lead!

Mark

Echo

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #48 on: November 21, 2014, 08:22:37 am »
It is a great first lead, but not harder than 5.6. Compare it to any 5.6 at the Gunks, esp. a classic like High Exposure, Disneyland, or Madame G's, and it quickly becomes a "one move 5.6"... vrs. over and over having to commit to the move

Offline markvnh

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #49 on: November 21, 2014, 10:37:07 am »
...don't disagree Echo that its only a move or two - but for me they're certainly feeling harder than 5.6 - placing the gear, making the moves. Of course if I went back now and did Hi E I'd probably feel the same way about that! Harder!

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #50 on: November 21, 2014, 06:14:21 pm »
 try bannana @ seneca for a very Interesting and not worth the risk 5.6 ::)

Offline tradchick

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #51 on: November 22, 2014, 04:09:56 pm »
first pitch of the Saigons...I had followed it numerous times and it just felt right.

Echo

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #52 on: November 22, 2014, 04:59:05 pm »
Classic 5.8, well protected, clean falls, great choice! Did you mantle or high-step? I always go for the high-step now but the first few times I did it it was always the awkward mantle.

Offline tradchick

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #53 on: November 22, 2014, 05:10:38 pm »
The awkward mantle after standing there for at least 5 minutes and whining.  ;)

Offline sneoh

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #54 on: November 22, 2014, 05:20:55 pm »
Saigon was my first "comeback" lead after wrist surgery and six months of rehab, back in '97.
I had this bulky brace on which made the wrist felt more stable but got in the way of side pulls and placing gear with that hand.  A little epic but it ended well on a BEAUTIFUL October day.

Nice first lead tradchik.  Great route John.  Hopefully not the last yours I get to climb! :)


"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline strandman

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #55 on: November 22, 2014, 06:18:38 pm »
Thanks..f/a right after the probable second ascents of Across the Universe and DMZ....I always searched far and wide for routes that weren't always hard..slim pickings in NH, even 30 years ago

Echo

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #56 on: November 22, 2014, 07:22:01 pm »
The awkward mantle after standing there for at least 5 minutes and whining.  ;)

Do you know the high step way? So much more secure feeling IMO. Key is the left foot on that weird triangle hold just left of the crux bolt, your foot is basically slipped under the quickdraw. Lets you rock over to some feet on the right without having to mantle. Way more secure feeling once you do it that way. No need for chalk, even do-able in the rain :)

I had climbed it half a dozen times before someone show'd me that move...

Funny how once you do a route a certain way you almost always do it the same way time & time again. I always jammed Bombardment with my hands while my feet had little, until I watched George Hurley put his feet in the crack as soon as it starts to zag left and just walk to the left until it ended... so much easier (though a bit harder to place gear).

Offline tradchick

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Re: Your first trad lead
« Reply #57 on: November 23, 2014, 02:35:32 pm »
I don't know the high step move but will try it this spring.  So true too about doing a route the same way until you see someone else do it differently.  Also interesting how different ways work for different people.