Author Topic: Another accident at Rumney  (Read 3767 times)

Offline eyebolter

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Another accident at Rumney
« on: November 25, 2014, 02:32:39 PM »
On Sunday, a local Rumney climber fell before clipping the first bolt on Sally's Alley (11c) at the New Wave Wall.  She was evacuated by the fast squad and by local climbers.  Her prognosis is unknown.

The route was well within her limit, and in my defense the guidebook does say "stick clip."

Be careful out there, even if you think it is "easy" ground.

Ward

Offline old_school

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2014, 08:34:58 AM »
speedy and full recovery to her
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2014, 06:24:10 PM »
Speedy recovery!!!!
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2014, 06:24:38 PM »
My brother assisted with the rescue. Apparently she was trying to understate the obvious pain of her injury and should be ok, though something is broken for sure.  It was her regular warm up that she had done about 100 times. 

Mrs. Eyebolter is all over me for my highball exploits.  I rehearse them, but as the recent accidents  demonstrate you can never be too careful.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2014, 06:25:48 PM »
On Sunday, a local Rumney climber fell before clipping the first bolt on Sally's Alley (11c)

sport climbing accident for sure, but she  can have a basic of trad climbing and don't use a stick clip for that reason.

any way, full recovery

Jacques

Offline sneoh

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2014, 06:35:15 PM »
Hey, Jacques, I agree with you on this one.  If she (and I think I know who she is) has done the route 100 times before I can see why she did not bother with the stick clip.
The start is a little funky on this route.   Quite a few of the holds are of rock which have a high mica content.  These always feel a little slick to me.
Well , wishing her a speedy and full recovery.

Chris comes through again!  That guy is everywhere ALL THE TIME!
The Mrs. is right, Ward.  Be careful, which I know you are already.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2014, 09:41:27 PM »
My son knows the woman who fell.  He told me that she is a really good climber (she gave him move-by-move beta for Flesh for Lulu which she can—ho hum—just walk up.)  He also said that she has done Salley's Alley many, many times as a warm-up route, and this particular time she slipped on some ICE.  He also said her injuries were pretty severe—I can't remember exactly, but I think he said broken ankles and stuff like that.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2014, 07:38:18 AM »
Hey, Jacques, I agree with you on this one. 

You agree that it is a sport climbing accident means that there is a distinction with trad accident. particularly with sport climber doing sport accident in trad route

Offline Jeff

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2014, 09:08:44 AM »
The fact that it was on a bolted climb does not make it a "sport ethic" or "trad ethic" accident-- the unfortunate climber, apparently VERY experienced, even on the climb in question, fell off  from high enough to get hurt BEFORE getting protection!! To me that makes it a CLIMBING ACCIDENT, full stop! Having been injured myself and fortunately recovered, I wish her full recovery and a much longer life in this sport we all love. I'm really tired of all the discussion trying to make a distinction, probably because when I began doing it
(yes, it WAS 5 decades ago) we called it CLIMBING and accepted everyone who did it as part of the tribe! Luke-- Le cheval est mort; arête de le battre, s'il te plaît!
« Last Edit: December 03, 2014, 10:17:11 AM by Jeff »

Offline old_school

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2014, 09:17:08 AM »
I wish her full recovery and a much longer life in this sport we all love. I'm really tired of all the discussion trying to make a distinction, probably because when I began doing it (yes, it WAS 5 decades ago) we called it CLIMBING and accepted everyone who did it as part of the tribe!

End of discussion!  ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline DaveR

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2014, 09:20:00 AM »
The fact that it was on a bolted climb does not make it a "sport ethic" or "trad ethic" accident-- the unfortunate climber, apparently VERY experienced, even on the climb in question, fell off  from high enough to get hurt BEFORE getting protection!! To me that makes it a CLIMBING ACCIDENT, full stop! Having been injured myself and fortunately recovered, I wish her full recovery and a much longer life in this sport we all love. I'm really tired of all the discussion trying to make a distinction, probably because when I began doing it
(yes, it WAS 5 decades ago) we climbed it CLIMBING and accepted everyone who did it as part of the tribe! Luke-- Le cheval est mort; arête de le battre, s'il te plaît!

A++

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2014, 10:32:08 AM »
« Last Edit: December 03, 2014, 10:47:49 AM by DGoguen »
Don't Climb

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2014, 12:12:20 PM »
Careful Dgoguen,
You may be stepping on JBro's territory with that comment..... We don't need anymore scrapping around here. Haha
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline old_school

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2014, 12:30:42 PM »
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Another accident at Rumney
« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2014, 12:40:34 PM »
The fact that it was on a bolted climb does not make it a "sport ethic" or "trad ethic" accident-- the unfortunate climber, apparently VERY experienced, even on the climb in question, fell off  from high enough to get hurt BEFORE getting protection!! To me that makes it a CLIMBING ACCIDENT, full stop!

For you is climbing accident, and in the case of the thread, i saw those mistake in both ethic.

I went this summer to the gunks and I saw many climber using four pro in a two pitch route, mostly old piton. The young women who died is a model of that kind of mistake, easy to avoid, except when they think that it is climbing to unprotected a pitch when you are a 5.11 sport climber.

In trad, we often prefer to protect easy section than hard section with a safe fall. When you protect in easy ground, you  loose less energy than in the crux of the route. We know that low angle is more dangerous than steep one because you hit the rock. the goal is to protect well and understand a move without beta

In sport, many people think that the results, the summit, justify to take the risk...particularly when a sport climber is in a trad cliff