Author Topic: trad climbing in a gym  (Read 9509 times)

Offline lucky luke

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trad climbing in a gym
« on: November 29, 2014, 10:39:07 PM »
Some of us dream to climb a route that we saw in a book or in the cliff and we want to know what we can do to realize our project the next summer. In a gym, you have sport route, but it is not really a place for trad climbing.

if you ask for it, there will be some gym who will make route for trad climber. First of all, You have to understand that it is basic technical route for one kind of movement. For example, you want to climb the last temptation  at cathedral ledge. The crux is a long and notorious strenuous hand traverse. In a gym, a hand traverse is a section of the wall with no feet and just an horizontal selection of hold for your hands. if you do a route to workout hand traverse, you will have to place two or three hold vertically, an horizontal section with two inches hold of five feet long going to the right, three to four hold place vertically in a way that we can't use the hand traverse with the feet, an other horizontal section with one inches holds to the left, and two or three more section of vertical and horizontal holds to the top.

So, as a work out, you will work hand traverse with different kind of hold. If you climb bottom up, you are going to be more tired as you climb smaller hold and it will be a test to know how stamina you had and if you can try a route like last temptation, rate 5.10. For more spice, you can clip bolt place at each side of the traverse. or you can clip a bolt in the side and one in the middle of the traverse and an other to the side....

As a trad climber you can make it more difficult. You can attach a sling on the bolt with a girth hitch, remove the sling, clip your quick draw,  replace the sling for the other climber and finish the traverse. The game is to climb 5.10, it is not to be better than your partner. So, you have a route that you can work for four week and still make progress in it.

Furthermore, I describe a hand traverse because it is easy to describe. You can do some other technique harder to describe, but with the same crescendo of difficulty as you go up. For example, you can do layback, stemming, mantel, counterforce, stemming, undercling...etc. It is all basic technique to be able to climb in trad...safely. In art of climbing, of John Long, he describe those technique.
 
So, ask in your gym to have trad routes. More people will ask for it, more ready you will be when you are going to on sight a new route outside.   

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2014, 11:27:58 PM »
God help us all . . .

sneoh

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2014, 07:22:47 AM »
Gym Training by Luke, bestseller for sure.  Gym owners will rush to buy it.  Must read for head setters.

Offline markvnh

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2014, 08:19:49 AM »
Oh boy...not sure I've had enough coffee for that yet...

Offline kenreville

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #4 on: November 30, 2014, 10:59:20 AM »
LL- time to reach for your bottle of meds and wash one down.

You are on meds, right?

Offline JBro

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #5 on: November 30, 2014, 11:06:31 AM »
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

strandman

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2014, 11:29:49 AM »
God help us all . . .

And people ask why i drink.....by the way..last Temptation's crux is not the hand traverse..it's pulling up from the traverse onto to the 10+ face climbing
« Last Edit: November 30, 2014, 11:32:29 AM by strandman »

Offline The other tomcat

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2014, 12:02:06 PM »
That's what I thought, but it was snowing when I led it....lol!
Tom Stryker

Offline snowleopard

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2014, 12:06:21 PM »
Attention Beginners...DON'T PAY ATTENTION TO YET MORE LL BULLSHIT!

THE VALUE OF THIS DRIVEL IS ENTERTAINMENT ONLY

"training" for Last Temptation in the Beginner Forum.... ::)

JBrochu can you get the coffee woman to serve a special house blend for LL now?

bikewrench

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2014, 05:09:47 PM »
Is that Scarlet Johansson?

strandman

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2014, 05:30:29 PM »
yes..but she is sport..ignore her :P

Offline lucky luke

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2014, 05:42:37 PM »
"training" for Last Temptation in the Beginner Forum.... ::)

In sport, a beginner is a 5.9 climber, so it is not a mistake for a beginner to work out to climb a hard route. Next summer can be too soon, but it can be a good workout and fun as it will at there level 

In fact, you can begin to climb the Everest, but you will begin with smaller goal. Training for a goal is always more pleasant than climbing just for climbing. Success and failure is part of the game and if some one can not top rope all the trad route built in a gym, maybe he will see a progression from week to week as he will be able to climb it without fall to the third traverse the first time and to the fifth one four week after

The idea of trad route is to gain some technique, as a layback is a layback, and also to gain some strength. In sport, it is more to reproduce a complex movement made after many try, or made after people gave them beta. In sport, it is possible to climb hard route and harder you climb,more popular you are.

Is it what every people want? I don't think so. I read your post and I always try to understand why is it a bad thing to do what John Long teach in the art of leading?
« Last Edit: November 30, 2014, 05:44:15 PM by lucky luke »

strandman

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #12 on: November 30, 2014, 05:58:02 PM »
Ok..but LT is 10+.....You know what Largo says ????I do  "it's a BOOK"

sneoh

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #13 on: November 30, 2014, 05:59:40 PM »
"training" for Last Temptation in the Beginner Forum.... ::)
+1.  Glad I am not the only one having this thought.

As a part-time setter of many years, I can however say, given the constraints of gym walls/terrain and holds in general, it is quite hard to mimic an outdoor route most of the time.  What gym owners and head setters want are routes that are engaging but yet not too difficult to decipher at the grade, and not injurious.   

Lucky Lucy

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #14 on: November 30, 2014, 06:34:49 PM »
LL,
you need to find some better quality weed!