Author Topic: trad climbing in a gym  (Read 10032 times)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #30 on: December 02, 2014, 07:28:02 PM »
I have been to many of the largest gyms in the USA when I was the head coach for Steve and those two REAL GRANITE cracks in the BRG were badass and how they were made was real cool. I remember working on them with Tom. 10D/11A slightly flaring wide hand crack that would take cams real nice and a thin finger crack that goes at about 12B

fortunately, it is not what I was suggesting. 5.12 crack is not for a beginner. But a beginner can make a hand traverse with hold of two inches and be able to learn the technique and apply it outside in many places.

intermediate climber can built there stamina if they lead the route and simulate the time that he took to place the pro by on tying a girth hitch on a sling before he clip is quickdraw.

Finally an expert can use the route to do laps and work out one kind of movement in different angle.

We are very far from a 5.12 crack     

Offline DaveR

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #31 on: December 02, 2014, 08:03:13 PM »
But how about a plain old 5.6 hand crack?  Never seen one in a gym, though it would be far more useful than a painful 5.12.

There was and easy crack there Ward but it was probably put in after you were climbing there and it was just wood and not leadable.

I have to agree with Steve on all the other BS that has become climbing gyms. Hanging around having a latte before yoga will not likely make you a much better climber. The BRG had plain wood walls that were steep but not so fancy and many of us got really strong there because it was ALL about the climbing. We put a lot of effort into route setting there and that's why people got strong. Every year Steve sent a bunch of us to nationals and we were competing on a regular basis against kids from some of the fanciest gyms in the country at the time. We were training on our simple, steep, 24' high walls and winning. You don't need fancy to train, you need good route setting. Many times Steve also brought in some of the top climbers and trainers to work with his coaching staff and the team. Hans Florine for example was brought in for 4 days to work with myself and the other coach and then with the team. The OLD BRG was all about climbing and nothing else.

I miss the old BRG Steve, we had a lot of fun there and got real strong at the same time.

Offline DaveR

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #32 on: December 02, 2014, 08:05:51 PM »
We are very far from a 5.12 crack     

And you are very far from the real world!

Offline markvnh

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #33 on: December 02, 2014, 08:18:18 PM »
...I'm pretty sure I remember Todd Skinner giving a Free Salathe slide show at the old BRG in Somerville. If it wasn't there it was somewhere in Boston.

Plus Good Morning America doing a segment from there!

Offline steve weitzler

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #34 on: December 02, 2014, 08:48:30 PM »
Todd came to the gym a number of times. Actually we had numerous "well known" celebrity climbers giving clinics and shows on a regular basis. Bobbi Bensman, Shelly Presson, Hans F. and Steve Schneider, Peter Mayfield, Fred Becky, Dale Goddard, Robyn and Didier, Stefan Glowacz, Ed Webster, Stephen Venables, Kurt and Elaina Smith to just name a few and I have probably forgot just as many as I have named. Obviously I am biased but the BRG was built and created by climbers for climbers no ropes courses, lattes, yoga, work space, skate boarders, bands etc. Butů..climbing has changed and so do the business models.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #35 on: December 02, 2014, 08:57:57 PM »
The fact is you can't learn to crack climb on cracks that are 12B

If you want to climb 5.13, you can learn nothing???

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #36 on: December 02, 2014, 09:33:54 PM »
When did BRG originally open? I dropped out of the Boston climbing scene in 1986, so it must have been after that.  In '86, if you referred to "indoor climbing," many climbers would assume that you were talking about the MIT Student Center which had a great traversing wall downstairs for building finger strength.  (The stairs were also pretty good for climbing as well . . . )

Offline OldEric

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #37 on: December 02, 2014, 10:01:09 PM »
I think the original BRG opened in Sommerville in 88 (maybe 87 - where is Steve W?).  There were a couple of precursors besides the basement of the MIT Student Union (which was quite useful) - the Wakefield Y (again we need Steve's input) and the Hampshire College gym.

strandman

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #38 on: December 03, 2014, 11:18:56 AM »
trad in gyms..and then liability reared up it's ugly head

Coach used to have a really long wooden jam board at Tufts.like 40'   horizontal...I really sucked at it..especailly when it moved around

Offline lucky luke

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #39 on: December 03, 2014, 12:26:21 PM »
trad in gyms..and then liability reared up it's ugly head

Well, I don't think so. You associate trad with danger.

It is also possible that, if the climber don't "mimic" what they learned in sport in trad route...we are going to lower the number of accident outside, increase the number of climber and the gym will make more money.

Of course, if you are at the gym and have to decide between sport and trad or to do both, with different goal and ethic...maybe outside the people are going to be safer...

without thinking that sport is better or worse than spoort.

strandman

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #40 on: December 03, 2014, 02:25:25 PM »
I associate trad with danger ????

Ask a gym owner about liability sometime..or for that matter a landowner  (like Band M) owners

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #41 on: December 03, 2014, 03:34:57 PM »
Pretty sure Luke has stated in the past that there is more danger in placing gear than simply clipping a bolt... Good thing he's not on a fixed gear bike folks, as his last statement is a back pedal for sure....
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline lucky luke

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #42 on: December 03, 2014, 05:56:03 PM »
I associate trad with danger ????

if the liability is higher...that's means that trad is more dangerous.

if you thing that liability is lower, that mean that trad is less dangerous

strandman

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #43 on: December 03, 2014, 05:58:46 PM »
No, it doesn't.....it's a gym and liability is required. The insurance company doesn't know the diff

Offline steve weitzler

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Re: trad climbing in a gym
« Reply #44 on: December 03, 2014, 06:10:46 PM »
The Y wall I built was in 1987. The original BRG was 1989. And yes insurance was a beast to pay for but originally I had to educate the insurance companies as to what we were doing. Sometime later (maybe 1995) myself and a few other gym owners and managers (Casey Newman, Nate Postma, Peter Mayfield, Rich Johnston and a few others) created the CGA (climbing gym association) which I think is now the CWA (climbing wall association). Essentially this was an industry group that set standards and policies for climbing gyms so that we could secure insurance at a better rate and insure safety standards across all gyms.