Author Topic: Suggest TR options for 1st timers?  (Read 1675 times)


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Suggest TR options for 1st timers?
« on: March 05, 2015, 07:35:18 PM »
Hey guys --

A buddy and I are headed to NH from VA at the end of March to do a Mt Washington ascent via Lions Head. While we're up there, we're planning on doing some vertical ice if there is any good ice left.

I've crossed Mt. Washington on an AT thru-hike before, and I'm comfortable in our gear selection, skills and common sense when it comes to weather and alpine travel, so I'm not looking for a lot of advice in that area.

But while we have some experience on southern rock pitches, this will be our first time on vertical ice. Can we get some suggestions for good areas to top rope some entry-level stuff in the Jackson/N Conway area without pissing of the locals? I've been looking at Champney, Detention Corner, Wiley's and Arethusa falls. Are these good options? Are there areas at any of these crags that are viewed as "lead only" climbs?

We've purchased a few screws and might try to get a little leading as well, but we're definitely starting out on TR, so where are our best options?? Thanks for the help.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Suggest TR options for 1st timers?
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2015, 07:57:05 PM »
Willey's isn't vertical at all and certainly isn't a toprope kind of place. the north end of Cathedral is good as is the Barking Dog Crag. Champney is fine. there are some short places left of Cave Route and Lost In The forest at Frankenstein are both fine.

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Re: Suggest TR options for 1st timers?
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2015, 08:03:14 PM »
For toproping, Champney is a good choice and not too far a drive from N Conway.  Even closer is Duck's Head, just across from the Jackson covered bridge on 16/16A. There are a couple of lines to the right side that are easy to set up for TR. 

Offline triguy

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Re: Suggest TR options for 1st timers?
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2015, 07:01:10 AM »
Hire a guide for the day. It will be well worth the cost and split between two people it should not be that expensive.

You will have a much better experience and they will be able to provide valuable pointers on technique.
Ice has two purposes in life: climbing and watering down bad scotch!

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Suggest TR options for 1st timers?
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2015, 11:25:24 AM »
Ice should be great right through March and into April.

North End of Cathedral


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Arethusa Falls

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