Author Topic: OMG  (Read 2853 times)

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1824
OMG
« on: April 21, 2015, 01:12:43 pm »
I was bouldering below the Main Cliff at Rumney the other day, looked up at the cliff and saw the most horrifying thing. A guy and a girl were up on the second pitch of Rock du Jour. The guy was belaying and she was leading, about 40 feet out at the second bulge where you hand traverse right on the lip and she was struggling to unclip the single bolt she was attached to. The rope was not clipped to any of the draws below, so she was looking at an 80 foot fall factor 2 onto the belay, bad enough if it was out in space, but she would have definitely splatted. For a second I thought maybe she was bailing and had threaded the eyebolt, but it still didn't really make sense. I couldn't just watch it and nobody else seemed to be noticing,so I said F it, who cares if I embarrass my self. So, I dashed up and called up to them to stop what they were doing and explained that she was on one bolt and close to killing herself. I could never get what they were thinking. They seemed pretty clueless to the danger, yet sure of themselves, (the guy said "I'm on one bolt and I'm fine"  ???  ), but she at least listened and lowered down to clip her rope into the draw below. I left them at that to get back to my bouldering. I did notice that she continued on and I could have sworn that she hadn't clipped some of the bolts above along the way. It wasn't like she was even getting up it cleanly.

The apparent utter lack of common sense amazed me. I would think you would have to be severely retarded, with an IQ of 40 to be so out of it, but they seemed normal. They were able to form words and dress themselves. Am I missing something? I can't think of any reasonable explanation of the whole thing, especially since she continued on. This is the kind of stuff that makes me want to go deep into the woods. At least nobody will notice when I do it out there  :P
« Last Edit: April 21, 2015, 01:44:50 pm by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: OMG
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2015, 01:46:56 pm »
Your right mark..get out to green's asap..if you die out there, no one will know.  i saw some shit with gear loops the other day and even i was speechless............she wasn't good looking either  :(

Offline frik

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 641
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: OMG
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2015, 01:51:25 pm »
Mushrooms? You or them.....

Offline The other tomcat

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 606
Re: OMG
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2015, 04:29:22 pm »
If you build it...they will come... ;)
Tom Stryker

Offline markvnh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 653
Re: OMG
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2015, 05:38:52 pm »
Way to speak up - you saved them from disaster. Of course they never realized this because they knew what they were doing! I'm probably gonna get flamed but here goes - most likely gym climbers with a serious lack of outdoor knowledge. Hell, outdoors or indoors - no clue.

Offline eyebolter

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 774
Re: OMG
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2015, 08:10:06 pm »
Seen all kinds of crazy stuff at Farley.   Dude tries to lead 11a with loose bolts, then falls at crux.  Second topropes, unclipping all the bolts as he goes, then tries to lead crux on single back-clipped bolt.   Then they get mad at me when I suggest how they might do something safer.  Sheeesh...

Saw a party tryng to gang toprope the lower face on Ussuk on a single draw in the roof.  All I said was: "I'm not telling you what to do, but all I can say is that you guys are putting an awful lot of faith in a single bolt placed straight up into the roof by someone you don't know..."

They didn't thank me, but they did pull their rope and didn't chew me out.


Offline SA

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 405
Re: OMG
« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2015, 08:25:22 am »
I posted a similar epic story last year about something I witnessed in Utah, where a father with his kids watching was totally out of control. I politely spoke to the belayer, (his brother), after explaining that I was very experienced and just didn't want to see the kids fatherless.

My advice didn't go over well, but the brother did seem to soften up later on, as my 2 younger partners proceeded to lead a hard sport climb, which impressed the locals.


Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: OMG
« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2015, 09:26:44 am »
And the big difference between R rated routes and self created r routes  or even X.....I think it's always better to say something, even if the people get pissed, rather than do some body scraping later.

Offline NEAlpineStart

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 728
    • Northeast Alpine Start
Re: OMG
« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2015, 09:56:28 am »
Speaking up is important, especially when it's an obvious beginner oblivious to the risk the more "experienced" person is introducing them too.

Case in point;

A few years ago I reached the top of the 3rd pitch of Thin Air with two clients and was watching two young shirtless guys and a girl finish the first pitch. The leader then did the 2nd pitch traverse clipping the bolts (bolts are gone now). The 2nd young man followed and started cleaning the bolts, leaving the girl to follow the pitch without ANYTHING between her and the bolted anchor at end of the traverse. I convinced them to clip the trailing rope in and let her clean the draws. She fell a few times during the traverse. It would have been ugly if they hadn't listened.

They had actually argued "If she just slips she'll "just run with it"".

I said yes, all the way into Turners Flake.

She was visibly terrified, and it didn't take too much suggesting that they perhaps rappel from there.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2015, 09:58:50 am by NEAlpineStart »

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: OMG
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2015, 10:01:48 am »
wow ! i guess sending her second wasn't part of the plan ?

i was retro-chastised once for single biner clipping wires on Heather.."you should sling those wires "..well, i don't own any slings worth using

ps  i have never, had a wire come out that was single binered,,yet i do not reccomend it to people
« Last Edit: April 22, 2015, 10:05:04 am by strandman »

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8064
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: OMG
« Reply #10 on: April 23, 2015, 10:09:37 am »
the whole thing about making suggestions to people is very tricky. it's got a lot to do with how you approach them I think. no one likes to be criticized, especially in front of their peers. still, if you see something really dangerous, you really should speak up. I do...
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline jimmy

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 37
  • I love YaBB 1G - SP1!
Re: OMG
« Reply #11 on: April 23, 2015, 12:41:24 pm »
The main problem is how you communicate.  Most folks are poor communicators and thus their advice comes off as criticism or just plain douchebaggery.  Can't emphasize the importance of being really polite.  Good communication skills take a long time to develop and are challenging for humans including myself. I try to start with something like "I am just trying to help and am not criticizing because I have done unsafe things before as well. You should really consider doing X not Y because...  Etc Etc.".  I also mind my own business unless the situation looks dire.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2015, 12:44:22 pm by jimmy »

Nemesis

  • Guest
Re: OMG
« Reply #12 on: April 23, 2015, 01:24:02 pm »
Maybe if you guys would stop speaking up the crags wouldn't be so crowded.   :P

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: OMG
« Reply #13 on: April 23, 2015, 05:41:59 pm »
I prefer crags  where no one hears the thump of the body hitting the ground

Nemesis

  • Guest
Re: OMG
« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2015, 07:30:51 pm »
I prefer crags  where no one hears the thump of the body hitting the ground

The black flies getcha before the ground  ;D