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Author Topic: Double Rope management  (Read 350 times)

tradmanclimbz

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2004, 06:13:38 AM »

Probobly a karma thing.
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xmikeyx

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #16 on: September 01, 2004, 11:25:31 AM »

during a trip to mexico last winter a friend of mine had horrendous problems with her brand new rope kinking up and knotting on her. she did everything right to the rope for the initial uncoiling of the rope - i suppose sometimes you just get a bum rope??? that sucks 'cause you can't return them usually.
anyways, i find that smaller ropes do tend to kink up a little bit more whether it's because of design, or handling i couldn't say. but i find that it's not a huge problem if you pay attention to how your ropes are running through rap anchors, tr anchors, directionals and belay devices...if you keep the rope in a single plane during use then twisting rarely occurs. i find that when people are rappelling with a tube style belay device and they have it rigged through the waist and leg loops of a harness (belay slot orientation side to side) as opposed to using the belay/rap loop that's standard on 90% of all harnesses now (belay slot orientation up and down) there seems to be more kinking problems.
in my opinion a lot of it has to do with bealy/rappell technique. if you belay with the device in an "up and down" orientation but you hold your brake/feed hand out to the side, you end up putting a 90 turn in the rope's path and that kinks it up. likewise if you rap with the device in a "side to side" orientation and then you hang the ropes straight up and down between your legs you're putting a 90 degree twist in the ropes.
also if you tie the loose ends of the rope together during a rappell they twist like all hell. i usually tie back up knots in each individual rope before i toss them. and if i know i'm going stright to the ground i don't tie knots and just try to rap all the way off the end of the ropes (i.e. feeding them through when i'm safely on the ground). also try to make sure that you're loading the ropes while feeding them all the way through teh belay device as opposed ot just unkinking them and feeding them through. the "load" on the anchor side of the belay plate helps to straighten the ropes as you pull them through.
whew...ok i'll stop now. ;D
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Climb hard, climb smart or fall...That's all there is to it.

radair

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #17 on: October 07, 2004, 05:20:26 PM »

Quote
....double ropes...generally lighter...


Explain to me how two 8mm ropes are lighter than one 10.5?

I switched to a single rope to do The Arete years ago because I did not want the weight of two ropes hanging off my waist. For steep, straight-up routes, one rope is lighter.

Double ropes are really good otherwise.
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Schandy

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #18 on: October 08, 2004, 08:08:08 AM »

two ropes will never be lighter than one.
two ropes are faster to rap with and safer to climb with.  

2 X 8mm = 120 meters at 40g/m   = 4800g
1X 10.5 = 60 meters at 70g/m   = 4200g

For an extra 600g you can do double raps and link some wandering pitches.  Might not be lighter, definately faster.

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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #19 on: October 15, 2004, 08:31:38 AM »

While doubble ropes are not lighter than a single rope in those situations were full raps are nessicary, towers, big routs that don't top out, big routs with weather hazards and potoetual rocfall incidents/ injuries (cannon) doubble ropes will be considerably lighter than leading on a 10.5 and lugging your old retired 10.5 or 11 allong as a rap line. My theory is that if i have to drag a second rope allong i might as well use it for climbing and not just rapping. I don't feel comfortable with super skinny rap lines so that rules out the roll of 6mm assesory cord. Skinny lines cut pretty easy when under load. watched a guy climb vertigo awhile ago with his rap rope on his back. he looked solid but couldn't help but think that carrying a rap rope arround seemed more of a hassel than just climbing with it.
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radair

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #20 on: October 15, 2004, 09:30:30 AM »

easy solution - have the second drag the rap line.

I have a 7mm rap line that is great for long routes when using a single lead rope. In one instance of insanity, I used it as a lead rope, single strand, on a new ice route. hey, ice climbing is about equivalent to soloing anyway.

Double ropes rock.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #21 on: October 15, 2004, 09:35:47 AM »

The problem with haveing the second trail the trail line instead of the leader is that if the rope gets stuck you are buggered. if the leader gets the trail line stuck the second can free it.
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Schandy

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Re: Double Rope management
« Reply #22 on: October 15, 2004, 09:42:00 AM »

I agree that if you are going to lug around a second rope that you might as well be able to climb with it.  But...The second doesn't have to trail the rap line.  It can be worn as a backpack, or carried inside of a small daypack.  trailing it would be sucky.  
Climbing on a 7mm static?! yikes!
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