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Author Topic: racking shoulder length runners  (Read 414 times)

DWarriner

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2004, 08:41:40 AM »

I climb with triples, they work great.  They're short, they're long, they're anything you want them to be.

The difference between trippling and doubling a sling is 3"-4".  If that's affecting you're climbing performance, you've got bigger issues.

The smaller issue of my disagreement with you is so vastly overwhelmed by how little this matters.

Get over it.

-David

« Last Edit: September 01, 2004, 08:43:12 AM by DWarriner »
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scottie_c

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #16 on: September 01, 2004, 09:37:34 AM »

what happens when you climb someone who's been around for a while and use their rack? they have 3 rigid friends, large rack of nuts (some on their own biner), exclusively ovals, and tied nylon slings...

as pointed out, this is largely personal preference. if you're going to be climbing with multiple partners, it's best to adapt and deal with these type of subleties.

if there are still issues, insist on using your rack
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xmikeyx

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #17 on: September 01, 2004, 11:41:05 AM »

when i climb trad, i climb with QD's and tripled dyneema slings. those things rock. that fact aside, if you triple the slings over with the "pass one beaner through the other" technique described above you have the options of using the sling draw as a QD length or as a full runner length...BUT if you triple the slings over by using two X-loops (like the "magic X") then you have the intermediate option of using it as a doubled over runner as well. when you're extending it, just clip two loops instead of one loop and Poof! you're there. you get all three functionalities depending on how you decide to clip. the one short coming of this system is that you end up with the sling wrapped around one of the beaners in the system. not a big deal just make sure it's not twisting up on the gate. even if it does the chances of the sling unclipping itself are tiny. you're more likely to have it happen by the rope running over the gate (i.e. back-clipping).

this really is a profoundly silly thread, but i jus thad to reply :) hey tradman, maybe you just need a new partner that does things your way? hehehe, or you can just start the climb earlier so that the transition delays don't effect the end time :)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2004, 11:55:22 AM »

I am pretty good at climbing on other folks rack. I can adapt, i do think that my system is better but obviously i am the only one that feels that way. go figure ;D    
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Admin Al

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2004, 02:17:58 PM »

I love the tripled runner thing. I have about 10 of those on me whenever I'm trad climbing. lately I've also been carrying 2 rigid draws as well. I've found that as I've moved up in the grades it's really nice to have that extra extension when I need to clip a bolt or pin that's "just" out of reach.

Al
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Schandy

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #20 on: September 02, 2004, 07:24:58 AM »

Any suggestions for stiffening up a draw?  Wire?  plastic tubing?  My partner is height challenged and sometimes has a hard time making clips.  Seems like when a 6' guy bolts a route, the bolts end up being placed at good clipping stances, but when you are 5' tall you have to clip from micro crimps and slopers.  Doesn't look like too much fun.  
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scottie_c

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stiffen your draws
« Reply #21 on: September 02, 2004, 08:02:16 AM »


duct tape works well for stiffening your quick draws
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #22 on: September 02, 2004, 09:44:23 AM »

I have been tempted to tape both ends of a draw for fishing in out of reach bolts. Currently in the rare occasion that I am that desperate I fish with the stiff end of the draw. I imagine that serious aid climbers have a few tricks.
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cklein

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2004, 10:22:36 AM »

You can use cheap thin plastic conduit.  
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trad_doc

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #24 on: September 02, 2004, 12:19:40 PM »

Just duct tape an old runner to your stick-clip and through it over your shoulder.  Not too heavy, stays out of the way.  Essential part of any standard rack.   ;)
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Schandy

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #25 on: September 02, 2004, 01:04:29 PM »

so should that be a trippled runner or a doubled runner?  Does it matter if I use a 3 section or a two section stick clip?  ;)
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DLottmann

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #26 on: September 02, 2004, 08:22:30 PM »

Quote
Just duct tape an old runner to your stick-clip and through it over your shoulder.  Not too heavy, stays out of the way.  Essential part of any standard rack.   ;)


a stick clip part of a standard rack?  I could be a sucker for a troll, but outside of clipping the 1st bolt on a sport route you don't really carry a stick with you do you?
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slobmonster

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #27 on: September 03, 2004, 05:57:17 AM »

<suck> <suck> <suck> <suck> <suck> <suck> <suck>

[sucking sound, the kind a troll may make]

<suck> <suck> <suck> <suck> <suck> <suck> <suck>

let's finish this 'discussion,' please.  
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DWarriner

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #28 on: September 03, 2004, 06:38:50 AM »

Quote
so should that be a trippled runner or a doubled runner?  Does it matter if I use a 3 section or a two section stick clip?  ;)


I believe this works best if the runners are quintupled.

-d
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trad_doc

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Re: racking shoulder length runners
« Reply #29 on: September 03, 2004, 08:01:21 AM »

It's really useful actually!  I have a telscoping painters pole with a draw clip taped on one end and a boat hook epoxied on the other.  The clip helps me tr those scary moves on route, and if I can't pull them, I just use the hook to snag the next feature I can reach (bolt hanger, ledge, tree, gear loop on slow climber ahead of me)and pull myself up. It doubles as useful tool for knocking down wasp nests, fending off bears and scratching those 'hard to reach' places. Of course I went with the titanium hook to keep in line with my "fast and light" creed.  Great for alpine starts as the pole + poncho = tent.  Not to mention that resting the pole on two rocks gives you a nice place to sit for those early morning, post coffee, pre-climb duties.   ;)
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