Author Topic: learning trad, before  (Read 1105 times)

Offline lucky luke

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learning trad, before
« on: June 22, 2015, 10:44:51 PM »
I have the chance to meet Joe Cote and have the book of Webster as a references for all my routes. Although it have more detail than a line on a picture of a cliff that I was used too, i can qualifies those references as trad.

I was climbing bombardment and Joe Cote was climbing above me at the same time. I remember to look at him and wish to have as much technique to get up to the top. He moves and protect the cliff perfectly even if i thing that I have a lot of hard 5.10 climb under my belt. Base, after, show me my ignorance and today, i wish to be able to be in better shape to climb in better style.

Before, we were learning trad by following a leader for one year from may to september. some times, if we were good, we have the chance to lead a pitch here and there. September to the end of october in quebec, it was for aid climbing. We still do one pitch crag, but climb some route in aid to place as many protection as we can. In trad time, it was not rare that a climber top rope a pitch and polace all his rack in as many location as he can. I saw a guide climbing ...removing a pro above as hisv student place one above so there is always just three pro for the safety of two climber at the north and practice slab. In rainy day, some climber did aid climbing route close to molson madness. some was training to climb on wet slab at whitehorse. They were TRAD climbers

Today, I saw sport climber climbing with cam nutcracker without knowing how to place a good pro. A guy climb bird nest and put his life at risk three times without knowing it. Most of them have very good skill and don't fall...but most of the climbing accident are from sport climber today.   

« Last Edit: June 23, 2015, 07:52:16 PM by lucky luke »

Offline xcrag_corex

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Re: learning trad, before
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2015, 10:52:23 PM »
Al,
Wanna be proactive and lock this one up too? :police: ;)
-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

Offline JBro

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Re: learning trad, before
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2015, 11:27:40 PM »
Why did Al lock up the other thread? It was just getting good.
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: learning trad, before
« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2015, 10:28:35 AM »
...most of the sport climbing accident are from sport climber today.

most of the car accidents are from drivers today...

most of the boating accidents are from boaters today...

most of the motorcycle accidents are from motorcyclists today...

This has been a public safety announcement

Offline DaveR

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Re: learning trad, before
« Reply #4 on: June 23, 2015, 10:54:57 AM »
Why did Al lock up the other thread? It was just getting good.


A+++

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: learning trad, before
« Reply #5 on: June 23, 2015, 12:48:39 PM »
It was all my fault.  I took the bait ;D

Offline Nick Grant

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Re: learning trad, before
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2015, 03:48:53 AM »
Andy Kaufman lives!  When does Lucky Luke start wrestling women?