Author Topic: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall  (Read 894 times)

Offline rbirk

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BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« on: July 06, 2015, 08:50:30 AM »
A climber next to me took a lead fall on Barber Wall last weekend and shattered his yellow BD 0.2 X4. The cam stopped his fall for a fraction of a second and then gave out and he fell to his next piece. He was okay and kept climbing, but it was a little scary seeing the piece afterwards. Three of the wires completely gone. Two lobes totally loose, wobbling around and the other two lobes completely stuck.

The initial fall was no more than 5-6 feet and the X4 was in new condition.

« Last Edit: July 06, 2015, 09:01:55 AM by rbirk »

strandman

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2015, 09:09:52 AM »
That sure looks like a manufacturing issue to me.it's not like the cable broke or frayed

I'll keep my metolius and Wired Bliss TCU's thanks

cjdrover

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #2 on: July 06, 2015, 09:33:51 AM »
The broken wires make me suspect that the lobes inverted, but the damage to the lobes themselves is curious. What route was it on?


Offline rbirk

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2015, 09:39:03 AM »
It was halfway up Nomad Crack.

strandman

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2015, 09:41:02 AM »
Are BD cam lobes 6061 or 7075 ??

Offline rbirk

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2015, 09:57:14 AM »
I believe the lobes are 7075, but not 100% sure.

cjdrover

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #6 on: July 06, 2015, 10:08:25 AM »
It was halfway up Nomad Crack.

That undercling is quite irregular... I wonder if only one side was cammed? 0.2 X4's are only rated to 6 kN; with one side tipped out I have to imagine the forces would not be friendly, even in a small fall.

I do wonder about the size though - I did Nomad again a few weeks ago and distinctly remember using yellow & grey aliens at the crux, which run 0.7-0.9 inches. That X4 is about 0.4". The crack does vary a bit so there could very well be a part where it pinches down, but I would venture a guess that it wasn't sitting nicely when it was loaded.

Still, not a very inspiring failure mode.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #7 on: July 06, 2015, 11:59:53 AM »
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/x4-cams-break/110291509__1

I've read this thread all the way through... (WHEW) ...and I'm not at all convinced that it's a manufacturing error.
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: BD 0.2 X4 broke on fall
« Reply #8 on: July 06, 2015, 07:05:36 PM »
That link isn't working. Did you mean this one Al? http://www.mountainproject.com/v/x4-cams-breaking-seriously/110291509
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
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