Author Topic: Glueless at Sundown Ledge  (Read 833 times)

Offline mhlava

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Glueless at Sundown Ledge
« on: July 06, 2015, 10:39:03 am »
I was up at sundown ledge this weekend and, in the mood for finger pain and frustration, decided to put in a couple tries on Glueless. I was wondering if anyone knew the background of this climb? It seems like it deserves more than the basic description the guidebook offers, being apparently one of the area's first 14's and not one of the many sent by Dave Graham and company.

Also, does anyone know if a horizontal crimp ledge about 1' below the current 4th bolt (to the right of the left-facing diagonal edge/pocket and the old rusty 4th bolt) broke off recently? There's a line of chalk there and what appears to be a large patch of fresh rock below it. The photo below, posted on MP in 2013, seems to show a well-used edge there, but it's hard to tell for sure. Has anyone climbed it recently, and can they confirm/deny?

Thanks,
-Matt

Offline the_other_andy

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Re: Glueless at Sundown Ledge
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2015, 12:36:56 am »
Probably broke off, it had a lot of friable flakes on it. That route would have been a nice 5.12 until a huge flake broke off at the crux. I should have cleaned/glued it before I bolted it, which by the way was all hand drilled. What a pain in the arse!
Good to see Dikenstein still there, took me ages to clean that pile.