Author Topic: Another fall at Cathedral?  (Read 1597 times)

Offline danf

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Another fall at Cathedral?
« on: August 30, 2015, 09:07:12 PM »
Rumor has it about a 20' fall, possibly on Nutcracker.  Anyone have any more details?

Offline cjdrover

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2015, 09:45:51 AM »
I wasn't there at the Barber Wall but got an update from a few friends that were when we met them at the top. I also know the party involved, thought not very well. I was not a witness so I'm not going to rehash "the story", but, in the interest of arresting the rumor mill, here are the basic facts as I understand them:
  • The climber was on Double Vee and hit the deck. Reports indicate that at least one piece of gear pulled.
  • It appears the victim suffered at least a sprained ankle and probable concussion. They were reported to be wearing a helmet.



Offline lucky luke

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2015, 11:16:51 AM »
I wasn't there at the Barber Wall but got an update from a few friends that were when we met them at the top. I also know the party involved, thought not very well. I was not a witness so I'm not going to rehash "the story", but, in the interest of arresting the rumor mill, here are the basic facts as I understand them:
  • The climber was on Double Vee and hit the deck. Reports indicate that at least one piece of gear pulled.
  • It appears the victim suffered at least a sprained ankle and probable concussion. They were reported to be wearing a helmet.

We don't know a lot. I often saw sport climber without experiences learning how to trad climb in nutcrackers. Some one told me that Webster set a top rope in that route and place as many nuts that he can without loading the rope just to practice to climb higher grade (5.10 and over). I saw people with shiny gear with less than a hundred nuts placement climbing there. It is less than what I can place in aid on a day.

Good point is that the person fall on his feet avoiding and upside down fall. Knowing how to fall or jump before the fall on your feet is long and hard to learn

Offline old_school

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2015, 01:43:25 PM »
Saw the emergency vehicles there that morning. Hope the climber recovers quickly and completely!
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Offline strandman

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2015, 01:54:36 PM »
A good way to learn how to fall on your feet is to go bouldering

Offline kenreville

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2015, 08:27:01 PM »
A good way to learn how not to fall at all is to go soloing.

Offline DaveR

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2015, 08:57:38 PM »
A good way to learn how not to fall at all is to go soloing.

A++

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #7 on: September 01, 2015, 08:07:26 PM »
BINTD we did not boulder with pads and that did two things. no real falls but if you did get in a pickel and could not down climb you have to have good jumping skills. this probobly not the place to babel about that stuff though....

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #8 on: September 01, 2015, 09:00:26 PM »
A good way to learn how not to fall at all is to go soloing.
At least it is a good way to learn how to do it only once.
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. John Kenneth Galbrait

Offline nrkuhl

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2016, 07:48:45 AM »
I was reading about another accident and had a moment of curiosity to see if anything about mine was on the forums, and here it is!  I thought I'd post up the story in case anyone is curious.

I was the climber, I was having an off day and fell off of Double Vee, ripped some gear and decked.  I knew the gear was marginal when I placed it, but I really didn't expect to test it.

My feet caught on something on the way down, so I landed on my back (this is second hand, the last thing I remember is placing a piece of gear, then I have a couple of brief memories of the carry out, and then it's three hours later and I'm in Conway Memorial).  I fractured the transverse process on my L2 vertebrae, had a minor pneumothorax, a bad concussion, minor brain bleeding, lots of bruising both inside and out, and some pretty good lacerations.

I spent a couple hours in Memorial before they transferred me to the Maine Medical trauma unit, and I spent two nights at Maine Medical under observation in case they needed to relieve brain pressure or vent the air pocket in my chest (fortunately neither of those things needed to happen).

I've made a full recovery, got back to climbing in the gym after about 4 months, and started climbing on rock again this summer (that had more to do with grad school schedule than anything else).  The caveats to that statement are that I still don't sleep as well as I used to, and that alcohol now has a very profound effect on my mental state.  But that was my 10th concussion (bicycles are dangerous when you ride them aggressively kids), so we shouldn't be too surprised that my brain is a little weird at this point.

My takeaways:
If you're clearly having a bad day (as indicated in this instance by absolutely flailing while following on Nutcracker, a climb I've very comfortably sent and repeated many times), maybe just spend the day following your partner around.  Or go for a trail run or something.  I was only a week back from a month long climbing and mountain running trip, and I think I underestimated the combined effects of accrued fatigue and lack of time spent on sketchy trad that summer.

I was also wearing the BD hard hat style helmet, which is only good for protecting from shit falling from above, and doesn't do you any good when you smack the back of your head into the ground really hard.  I've moved to helmets with better back of head coverage and some foam in them.

Frankly, I'm not sure if I could have changed anything with the gear placements, folks I've talked to with equal or greater experience have concurred that solid placements are minimal on that line.  But, I'm open to suggestions.

Offline NEAlpineStart

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Re: Another fall at Cathedral?
« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2016, 02:16:30 PM »
Thanks for sharing and adding your first hand account. Happy to hear you have made so much progress.