Author Topic: Attitash crag?  (Read 2038 times)

Offline Travis_Dustin

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 111
Attitash crag?
« on: September 16, 2015, 09:25:24 am »
I'm going out with my sport climbing partner and want to go somewhere other than Rumney. Is Attitash worth the drive or should I just hike out to the further away crags at Rumney which is what I normally do anyways. Thanks
"What ever you do take care of your shoes"  Harry Armstrong

Offline CD

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 64
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2015, 10:43:01 am »
Sundown is a better bet.
keep it weird.

Offline NEAlpineStart

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 727
    • Northeast Alpine Start
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2015, 12:21:46 pm »
There's some fun stuff at Attitash Crag. I'm going to try to hit it Oct 10-11th because they'll be doing the Oktoberfest across the street at Attitash. You can climb to Bavarian music then head over for some libations and keg tossing. Good times!

Other sport climbing option... Humphrey's?

Offline dpen

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 215
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2015, 01:04:13 pm »
Good suggestion Dave!

How about linking Humphrey's and Attitash:   Hit a few routes at Humphrey's in the morning then shoot up West Side Rd to Attitash for a few pitches in the afternoon......although some of the fun routes at each may require a bit of gear....

DP

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 5829
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2015, 02:56:05 pm »
Though some of the Sundown sport routes are really good, few are under 5.12. i don't know what grades your looking for, but Attitash has a good selection

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8032
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2015, 06:30:38 pm »
FYI there are few routes at Humphrey's, Geriatric or otherwise, that are full-on sport routes. you should definitely bring a rack if you're going to climb there.
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 738
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2015, 08:16:04 pm »
Sundown. Alcohol Wall. 5.10 to 5.13 clip ups.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2015, 08:38:01 pm by kenreville »

Offline NEAlpineStart

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 727
    • Northeast Alpine Start
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2015, 09:07:55 pm »
FYI there are few routes at Humphrey's, Geriatric or otherwise, that are full-on sport routes. you should definitely bring a rack if you're going to climb there.

I think you can definitely leave the rack if you pick the right routes. Off the top of my head here's my list of "no rack needed" routes at Humprhey's.

Wanderlust (two pitch 5.8) gear can shorten run outs on 2nd pitch but it's only 5.7 at the bolts, 5.6 at the optional gear spots.

Run Don't Walk (two pitch 5.9) only gear you might want is a #1 or #2 down low but you quickly reach trees/bolts and this section is very secure 5.5ish (after a tricky ground start)

A Piece of Cake (two pitch 5.9) gear can make the 2nd pitch overlap a bit safer but that move is only 5.6. Trust me the jug is there ;)

It's 5 what? (5.10a), optional #1 cam at top

Yellow Jacket 5.7

Easy as Pudding 5.4

Put my foot where? 5.10

Tree Key 5.7

Around the Corner 5.10

Its not what it seems 5.9

Gaggle of Geese 5.8

High Steppin 5.7


Plenty of climbing there without the need of a rack. As Al says though, YMMV





Offline NEAlpineStart

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 727
    • Northeast Alpine Start
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2015, 10:00:09 pm »
Forgot that .75 on P1 of wanderlust after 3rd bolt. Might want that.

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8032
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2015, 11:15:54 pm »
I think you can definitely leave the rack if you pick the right routes. Off the top of my head here's my list of "no rack needed" routes at Humprhey's.

SNIP


sure, if you know the routes... if not, bring your rack. and BTW, bring a green Alien for the first 30' of Tree Keys at your own peril...
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 http://www.soundsclever.com

Offline Travis_Dustin

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 111
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2015, 07:16:46 am »
So what i'm gathering here is that Humphreys would be a better location, or is it just more known by you all. Thanks for the info. Im looking to get on some 5.7-5.10 routes and I know my friend will want some 5.10-11 routes.
"What ever you do take care of your shoes"  Harry Armstrong

Offline dpen

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 215
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2015, 12:42:20 pm »
They're both worth checking out if you have the chance. Good 5.8 to 5.10 (and a few 5.11-5.12) stuff at both.

If I had to pick one, I'd probably hit Attitash for a combo of setting and climbs, but to get most out of it, you'd need some gear as a couple of the good 5.10s require gear  --   Trepidation and Flying Jib  (although there's certainly a bunch good routes that go all bolts).

As NE points out there's quite a few routes you can hit with no to minimal gear at Humphrey's

Also, if you do hit Humphrey's hit Lost and Found 5.10 (takes 1 #2, but could probably run it out).

D

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4530
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #12 on: October 11, 2015, 11:16:26 am »
The one time  climbed at Humphrys gear was esentual to us. It's a whole different experience when you don't  have stuff wired.  It only takes one slip to ruin your life.........
« Last Edit: October 11, 2015, 07:56:29 pm by tradmanclimbz »

Offline kenreville

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 738
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #13 on: October 11, 2015, 08:30:35 pm »
The one time  climbed at Humphrys gear was esentual to us. It's a whole different experience when you don't  have stuff wired.  It only takes one slip to ruin your life.........

I find this comment most curious. It only takes one slip to ruin your life........

Not quite sure how you view risk, protection, etc. I for one NEVER think for a millisecond that if I (feebly) "slip" that I will be ruined.

How do you ever manage to top out?

Offline nuts

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 137
Re: Attitash crag?
« Reply #14 on: October 11, 2015, 10:00:15 pm »
There is a boatload of sport climbing around Conway on better rock than Humphries (a couple of good routes there:  Lost and Found, and the routes by the Dedication corner),  but not super concentrated except at higher grades.  For sport routes and pitches with mixed bolts and gear in the 5.9/ 5.10 / 5.11 range, look into Saco Crag, End of Days at Cathedral, Halls Ledge, Where in the Blazes and the Children's Crusade areas at Whitehorse, a bunch of the Kanc areas.  Also consider Longstack Precipice (excellent!), Evans Notch (many 5.11 and up, but 5.10 options exist), and Sandwich Notch.

I've never been a fan of Attitash Crag, except on an occasional hot day.  The approach sucks when it's chilly.  The Atascrap Wall has helped things there, it's steeper and less mossy.

If you're willing to walk or explore less visited crags with a few pitches, you'll discover a lifetime of climbs.

There has also been a good deal of activity on newer crags with the type of stuff you're looking for.  Information regarding these will probably be made more widely available later this fall.
« Last Edit: October 12, 2015, 05:04:19 pm by nuts »
Chris Magness